Farmall Super H 12v conversion

OK Have done the conversion following the guide on here for the super M (http://www.ytmag.com/articles/artint195.htm) along with the advice given to me in my previous posts.

For the alternator bracket I took the advice given and just flipped the regulator bracket over and drilled out the hols bigger and it lined right up. The only problem im having now is in the past my grandad replaced the regulator belt and replaced it with one longer then stock. He then made a spacer on the top support in order to extend it to make up the difference. Now the belt is way to long for what I need it for.

What i did was take a piece of wire and use that to measure the size of the belt needed. If it matters the wire i used was actually the plug that you would use to plug in a ATX computer power supply with both ends cut off of it, since i have about 20 or more of those laying around. Anyway after putting it on there and cutting it to fit the gap exactly it measured 29 1/4 inches. That is with the Alternator slam up against the valve cover. So i figure i need about a 29.5 to 30 inch belt to fit there so that I will have some adjustment on it to get it off the valve cover.

Does this sound about right to you guys/girls?

If the old belt will not be used, cut it, and stretch it around, then cut it again to the length needed. This gives a "in the V" length, and can be used at the store to assure it will work. Jim

Ok so i messed up Everywhere i typed regulator i meant Generator....

ALSO i did not put in the the warning light in there as the wiring guide showed. I just didn't hook that wire on the alternator to anything and caped it off with a wire nut and electrical tape. I'm assuming it will still work without he light, If I'm incorrect let me know.

Edit: Thank you for the reply. the belt he had on there was to wide for the pully on the Delco 10SI but i know we have a few belts laying around off old Toyota's that i can cut to do this that are the right width.

The light, (or diode with band toward alternator, or 10 ohm resistor) connects to the ignition voltage at the coil where it attaches to the ignition switch wire. The diode, light, or resistor is needed to supply excitation voltage to the alt. The resistor, diode, or light prevent the alternator from keeping the engine running when the ignition is shut off.
the coil should be hooked up so that the negative terminal goes to the distributor. (assumes it has a coil ignition, not a Mag.) with a mag, other steps are needed. Jim

Do what Jim suggests, and you need a little slop to get the belt on.

What is length of stock belt?

This is the diagram I used. I ran all wires as shown other then the #2 off the alternator running to the warning light and then the warning light to the switch.

I assumed the warning light was there so you would know when it is chrageing and when it is not like a BATT warning light in a car. So i assumed that it didn't matter i just wouldn't know whether it was chargeing or not with out the ammeter or a voltage tester. If my assumption was incorrect and it does in fact need a light there to complete the circuit i will install one, but if it will operate with out one id rather leave it off as I done see the need since the ammeter will tell me what voltage the tractor is getting.

Just let me know one way or the other, I'm sure i can pull a 12v light housing out of some scraped car or part tractor we have laying around to make one.

EDIT: SO i goggled it after posting this and it seems i need to either put the light on or add a resistor but the wire has to be run back to the switch one of those ways. If that is what you where trying to tell me in your previous post I am sorry i did not understand it.

If i go the resistor route what kind do i need, i have ALOT of old computer parts laying around i could rob one off of if any of those would work.

EDIT AGAIN: After goggling some more and then rereading Jim's post i see that he already answered these questions i just didn't understand what he was saying at the time. Thank you very much Jim.

The wire is needed, it will not charge correctly without it. The resistor can be between 10 and 15 ohms and more than 5 watt. The colors are brown black black, or black yellow black. Or wire the leads from a bulb style marker light one lead the the alt, and one to ignition. Jim

I use that same method...

I found one that says 15 OHM but it says "15 OHM 1WJ 15 OHM" does the 1 wj mean its only 1 watt?

Actually i found 2 Brown-Black-Black- Gold ones but i have no clue what wattage they are and one of them is like 2x the size of the other one.

The warning light goes to the #1 (ONE) terminal on the alternator.

#2 gets connected directly to the BAT post.

Go to your nearest Radio Shack and pick up a package of the biggest diodes they have. That's all you need.

BTW, the alternator warning light in a car performs the same function there as it does on the tractor... Not only does it tell you when the alternator isn't charging, it "excites" the alternator and makes it start charging.

Normally you think of an electricity-making device as having magnets. Have you ever noticed your tools do NOT stick to the alternator? No magnets. It's all done with electromagnets, hence the need to "excite" the alternator, aka charging the electromagnets.

Original belt from dealer should fit.

Use the big one and see if it works, It will not cause smoke. Jim

yeah i used that one. I would have gone with a bulb but the only bulb holder i could find laying around was for a 194 type bulb. I couldn't find anywhere on the net to tell me if that was a 200 ma bulb or no.

Anyway we wont have the belt to put on it till tomorrow but hopefully it will work out.

Everything seems to be working great thank you all for all the help.

I'm fairly certain if i run into any other problems it will either be that the coil is messed up (was not replaced, and has run hot before) or the resistor i used was not rated for the right amperage and has burned up.

O and just for future info in case some one does a search for this info and finds this post the belt we used was 31 inches.

ou are welcome. When running there is no current flowing through the resistor, only when the ign. is on and it is not running, or as it comes to a stop when the ign. is just shut off.
so it is going to work (opinion) for a long long time. Jim