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more horsepower

W

WVFarmall

Member
I have a stock Farmall H and would like to know if anyone has any ideas how I could get a few more horsepower and still keep it stock. Tractor runs good and pulls good but I would like to have a little more power.
 
Send the Carb to Matt Gall at MotecEngr Engineering in Tipton, IN. Tell him what your goal is. It made a big difference on my H and SMTA.
 
You need new overbore sleeves and pistons the carb wont do anything unless its bad and then it wont start or idle good.
 
a set of high alt. pistons a 350 head and 350 cam . a recurve on the dist and some carb work if the carb off a 350 is out of the question. Now if ya don't like the high alt. piston idea then pull the sleeves and do a bore job to fit 806 gas pistons and do some porting and flow bench and valve work along with a cam regrind . all depends on just how deep your pockets are and how much ya want out of it .
 
Let me put some perspective on what has been said, with an additional suggestion.

1.) Over bore sleeves and pistons. Also, make sure the pistons are high compression.
2.) Shave the head a bit.
3.) carb work is fine to provide more fuel, but then it is not stock.
4.) have the intake ports polished.
5.) Adjust the timing correctly, as if you up the compression enough, you will have to run at least mid-grade fuel if not super.

These things can be done and I believe it would still qualify as "stock". However, I am NOT a puller, nor am I am expert on what the pulling requirements are. I do know how to "motivate" an engine without stroking it or having a custom ground cam.

IHC offered overbore and high compression pistons. Not sure if they offered different jets or venturi's for more fuel flow.
 
Not stock option.

a48409.jpg
 
Wow, you guys can spend a few thousand at the machine shop in a hurry!!! All of those ideas are great and will certainly work, but none of them are stock. For that matter anything other than blueprinting an engine would be not stock. I mentioned the carb because he will open up the venturi so it will flow more air and he will increase the fuel to match.

Timing the tractor will also make a huge difference. Mine isn't set like the book says, but it lugs far better than most Ms. The other free thing you can do is adjust the valves. From what I have seen I would bet yours could use an adjustment.
 
When I went through my H I replaced the kerosene head with a gas head. Used Fire Crater ( genuine IH ) pistons and had the cam reground to SH specs. There was a bunch of minor stuff like new springs in the distributor, rebuilt the governor, and some SH carb parts, but nothing too radical.

It made a very noticeable difference in power. It will out pull my 350 when plowing in 3rd gear. In all fairness I have to say I just bought the 350 and have not been through the motor, but it runs good and does not burn any oil. With (2) 16s, it will keep up with my neighbor's JD 70 diesel pulling (3) 14s.

Greg
 
Thanks guys for your opinions. Don't know what I will do yet. Will start out simple and go from there. Thanks again.
 
Only two ways to get more horsepower, increase the engine's torque or increase the RPM.

To increase the torque you need to increase the pressure in the cylinder from the burning of the fuel. This means that you must increase the amount of fuel and the amount of air with each burn. Expensive to do as you will spend big bucks to get there.

Increasing the RPM will increase Hp but may be expensive if the engine blows up from too much RPM.

The IH engineering department spent many hours calculating loads on cranks, rods, tranny gears, axles, etc. I suspect they have it fairly well balanced when looking at the total system.

Of course, everything has a reserve which is intended to be used up in a long life. If you go over the design, low life will result.

Just my 2 cents.

BTW, will be in Charleston WV tomorrow...(Nitro actually)
 
The carb specialist by the name of Matt Gall that
I'm familiar with has his business at Tipton In. Was
wondering if this is the same one you're talking
about. Just curious. Larry
 
I have an M but it needs a complete overhaul (broken pistons). Had the H in a pull Friday night and took second and third place in 4000# & 4500# classes.
 
(quoted from post at 18:15:45 08/05/12) The carb specialist by the name of Matt Gall that
I'm familiar with has his business at Tipton In. Was
wondering if this is the same one you're talking
about. Just curious. Larry
Click to expand...

Yes, sorry about that. I was using my phone and it auto "corrected" Tipton for me. I hate that feature!
 
When ya get it to pull 3x14's in third then you will have something like one of my neighbors did with his H many years back . Just a plain old H it would pull 3x14's in third in corn ground for the most part in third and second in sod
 
(quoted from post at 18:50:03 08/05/12) I have an M but it needs a complete overhaul (broken pistons). Had the H in a pull Friday night and took second and third place in 4000# & 4500# classes.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you would be better off pouring motor money in the M then. I would play with fuel and timing on the H and leave it alone. How did it lug? If it lugged well I wouln't mess with timing.

BUT the only plus to pulling an H versus an M is time. I pull my SMTA in 6500, 7000, and 7500. The thing is you are done and loaded before I think about going to check out my tractor. To make it worse, last year we got half the pull in and then rained out 3 times!!! If I would have pulled my H I would have gotten to hook every time. That starts to get annoying when all those little tractors got to pull and you got a big fuel bill for nothing.
 
No problem. Matt lives just down the road from me
here in Tipton County and was just curious if he was
the one you were referring to.
 
(quoted from post at 05:50:31 08/06/12) In the picture is that a cold air intake ? I don't understand what it is all about. Link?
Click to expand...

It is a turbo on an H. Drive wheel, compressor wheel, and air intake/filter from left to right.
 
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