Remove Sleeves or Not?

equeen · Jul 31, 2012

If this works, there will be two photos: One of the parts I've removed from the busted block (354898R1)off a Super A. The other is a view of the busted block with sleeves still in block.

From what can be seen in photo, does it appear worth it to salvage the sleeves (3.25)?

Crankshaft pulley, is it simply a press fit? I'm not having any luck getting it to budge with a gear puller. Heat next; or is there a set screw or something holding it that I'm missing?

Janicholson · Aug 1, 2012

THe sleeves are worth removing, as they just push out the top with a block of wood and a 2 pound hammer. The pulley will not come off easily. if it has a set screw, it will be obvious. Most are interference pressed fit. I have seen some take 15 ton of hydraulic pressure, and very good support to get them to budge. Heat the pulley shank (not red) and it will come easier. The use of a Good bearing splitter behind the pulley, and a press is often needed. Sand the two to allow a less dramatic reinstall. (not so as to make it slip on though!)
Bearing pullers with arms will break the pulley at 30% of the needed force! Jim

JRSutton · Aug 1, 2012

What's broken on the block?

It's usually a lot easier to pull that front pulley while the crank is still installed -

I was impatatient one day and rigged this up to pull my pulley on the super a - it bent the threaded rod quite a bit, moaned and groaned, but it came off.

I post the picture not to suggest you do it this way - but to give you an idea of what's needed.

(also used a lot of heat)

Just be careful - any time you're working with extreme pressures (and especially with parts not designed for the job) peices can go ballistic when it fails.

old · Aug 1, 2012

Removing the crank pulley is not easy and many of them get broken by using a common gear puller. As the other guy posted you have to have some sort of heavy plate behind it so you have something to pull on. I made one from 2 pieces of 1.2 inch plate and cut a U in both and then drilled bolt holes to lock it on with then used a puller on the plates. As for pulling the sleeves I would if they are good so you might be able to use them and if you do use them be sure to use new sleeve seals so you do not get water in the oil

sflem849 · Aug 1, 2012

Do you have to measure wet block sleeves before removal? I used a bearing splitter and a big two jaw puller to remove my crank pulley.

JRSutton · Aug 1, 2012

as for whether or not you should save the sleeves - you can only determine that by measuring them.

If they're within tolerence and bit cracked - they're worth saving.

I'm unclear though - you said the block is "busted" - are you keeping it - or scrapping it?

If keeping it - remember to keep those caps / connecting rods /lifters in order. Your engine will be much happier if everything goes back where it came from!!!

equeen · Aug 1, 2012

The atch photo should reflect what I mean by "busted". The steering gear housing was also split apart into two pieces. It appears that someone dropped the front end from a high-flying plane with no parachute or some such.

I would like to remove the sleeves; then plans are for the busted block and steering gear housing to await a trip to a scrap metal dealer.

JRSutton · Aug 2, 2012

ouch - that IS busted.

I hate to see them scrapped - they aint making any new ones.

But that one's given all it's ever going to give.

Funny thing is - you probably COULD weld it back together, and it'd give you another 50 years. But I certainly wouldn't bother either.

equeen · Aug 2, 2012

For $600 the welder said that he could make it and the split into two pieces steering gear housing as good as new. However, he did not recommend it.

Remove Sleeves or Not?

equeen

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Janicholson

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JRSutton

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old

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sflem849

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JRSutton

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equeen

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JRSutton

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equeen

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