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Need help on 300 disk brakes

T

The 300 guy

Member
I have a 300 where the left brake does not grab very well. The right does better but it too is not the best. I have taken them off, cleaned and roughed up the actuator, disks and housing surfaces.
The inner surface seems to have a light ridge on the outer edges. I tried to remove the inner plate, but was unable to get it to come off. Anyone have suggestions on what to do to get good brakes and how to get the inner plate off the bull pinion shaft?
By the way the brakes were replaced in March of 2008 and do not have that many hours on it.
 
Tap on it with LFH. Spray pentrating oil on the axle. Putty knfe. It will come off,
Take the Drums to you local machine shop and have them mill or grind .1000 That's for all the wear on two acutuators, and inner and outer surfaces.
Also polish up those grooved axles and put just a touch of white litiom grease on them.
Think like the brake. It's got to expand and contract with little friction on the inners, and lots of friction on the plates.
 
What do you mean? The drum is about 5 inches wide. A matchbook cover is .030. There is probably at least .025 wear on each of the plates, another .025 on the drum, and another .025 on the inner contact surface.
 
I thought you meant on each surface. He said he had them rebuilt in 2008. Can't be that much wear in that amount of time. When I machined mine, it took only a few thousands on each surface to clean them up, and mine were really in bad shape.
 
Measure the discs. They are 1/2 inch thick when new. If they are still that measurement, put all parts, the two discs and the actuator in the drum and then lay a straight edge across to measure operating clearance. You only need about .030 clearance but you will want to leave more than that just to make sure you don't take off too much. Machine that drum off so you have about .060 clearance. You probably have about 1/8 inch now. If you study that actuator, see all the pressure points, the leverage on the linkage etc you will see why you lose leverage as it expands as the two points come closer together. If you really want it right you will machine all the worn and scored surfaces and then establish the clearance. On the 656 tractors and others they used shims to establish the proper clearance. That is the major adjustment on those models and the threaded adjustment was the minor one. Of course, all expanding points inside and outside of actuator need to be polished and I lube them lightly, balls , ramps, and machined ramps inside drum and outside of actuator.
 
What do you use for lube Pete?

You have to have the ramps and balls seriously clean. No lips or rough spots.
 
I have about 3/32 or .093 between the brake pad and the edge of the outer housing. The brake disks are not quite 1/2". so I need to take a lot off the outer Cover? Correct?

Also any easy way to get the inner plate out of the tractor??
 
Over the years I have used oil, grease or anti
seize. Depends on where I am and what is handy.
Actually I like grease and I think the main
advantage of the lube is it makes it so much easier
to clean things up the next time and there will be a
next time. Sure the dirt and brake dust sticks to it
but it doesn't rust so much.
 
Yes you need to take quite a bit off, and the plate just prys off. Only an o-ring and crud holding it on once you have the brake housing off.
 
I have done most all of this so far. I have not checked the splines yet but will soon. I replied to one other one and the outer cover has about 3/32 clearance between he brake disk and a straight edge laid on the cover. That's about .093. Looks like the cover needs to have metal removed.
 
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