Super H runs rough

I have a 1953 Super H that runs rough, I just bought it and I thought all it needed was a carburator rebuild, I have put a complete kit in it and Istill can't get it to smoothout, here is a list of stuff that I have already done, plugs, points, condensor, rebuilt carb, took carb off 5 or 6 times and reset float, set valve clearances. Plugs are Champion. cleaedthe gas tank also. When I shut the engine off gas pours out of the carb for a little bit. Also if I coles the fuel ajustment most of the way it will smooth out, but then it can't get enough gas if you slow the engine down and speed it back up. Ihave checked the compression and it is 75 on all 4 cylinders cold. Any help sure would be nice I am at my witts end.

Doug

Maybe a leak in the manifold. If you can get the tractor to run OK with partial choke but then it smokes it could be a hold in the intake side or even a loose manifold if it was off recently.

Doug it can be frustrating. I have found through the years that Champion plugs don't fire very good in the unleaded gas. I use Autolite 386 or the equivalent these days.

Which screw. There are three that chane how the engine runs. Idle speed, idle mix and load (Hi speed) mixture.
Neew more info. Does it stumble when adding throttle? Does it backfire? Does it lope or surge?Sputter ? What? Color of exhaust when adding throttle?
That fuel running out tells me the float is sticking. Take the carb to someone who knowa them and have them help you. Where are you setting the float? Do you have the small machinist ruler with 1/64 graduations?
Where are you?

Check your timing with a light. It should be 30 degrees advanced at full throttle(30 degrees before the top dead center mark on pulley. Then it should gradually decrease down to very near top dead center at low idle and it should not be jumping around back and forth. If it does not pass this test you need distributor rebuilt with proper advance shaft, and springs. Weights must be in good shape, tight on pins. I run champions in all my tractors and in most every one I repair for customers. Haven't had to even take one out in last five years on my own H's and M, and they are all on light duty. Champion D-21's They have a very small center electrode which fires well in light load situations. Of course, like others have said, manifold gaskets might be your problem. As far as gasoline running out when you shut it off, are you idling it down nice and slow before you shut it off. As long as that engine is turning over, coasting, it is still pulling in gasoline and then that excess will drip out. Same as choking before it starts. If it drips until you shut off the fuel tank, that is whole different situation and goes back to the carburetor, needle and seat, leaking nozzle gasket, leaking gasket at needle and seat, float not set right, dragging on side of carb or float leaking. With engine running full throttle, screw in load screw until engine slows or dies, back it out until smoothed, best it will anyway, and then turn it out another half, three quarter turn. Leave it there and do your other adjustments with idle mix and speed screws. Your compression readings are low but then that depends on how you did the test. Should be well over 100 on a super h unless it has distillate head which I doubt very much.

With the engine running at half throttle or so move your clip on the timing lite from one wire to the next and if you get an intermitten spark you have bad wires or bad bushings in the dist or maybe both. I do that along with the compression check before getting new parts that maybe arent needed. Its easy to go buy new stuff and when done sometimes you havent solved the problem.

I want to thank all of you guys that sent me replys, I have tried most of them, anyway I replaced the plug wires, cap and rotor button. I took the carb back off and took it all back apart but did not see anything, I put it back together and shook it up/down and could not hear the float rattle, I took it back apart and couldn't see anything but I squeezed the floats together a little bit and put it back together and now it rattles,I put it back on the tractor and got it running and ajusted, the longer it ran the better it got, I have put some seafoam in the gas and the oil and when I shut it down I removed the plugs and put a few oz. of marvel mystery oil in each cylinder, #4 plug was suitted up real bad. I think I will stop and get 4 more plugs tomorrow. I'll let you know what happens next.

Doug

Well I set the timeing, it was OK, but if I remove the idle ajustment screw it runs fine, so I removed the carb and went thru it agian, no help at all still runs with the idle screw removed but as soon as I pu the screw back in it starts to run rough.

not a clue
Doug