400 gas tank split?

The gas tank has a very thick rusty gunk settled onto the bottom of the tank, and I was wondering if the tank could be slit where the top and bottom half meet? This would make it a whole lot easier to clean. I'm starting to doubt that any gas tank cleaner could tackle the job. Thanks

GUNK? could it be dirt from Mud Wasps? Add water and shake it up. Pour it out and keep doing it until it is as clean a you can get it. IF water won't do it add some galvanized nails to it and go back to shaking it. Some have fastened their gas tanks to a wheel of another tractor and then they drive it around for a while. To take a tank apart may be more trouble than you want toget into.
SDE

Dawn dish soap and a pressure washer will work on the cheap. Rinse and repeat till it's cleaned up.

Splitting that tank and re welding would probably be more expensive that just taking it to a radiator shop and boiling it out.

(quoted from post at 07:42:26 07/29/12) The gas tank has a very thick rusty gunk settled onto the bottom of the tank, and I was wondering if the tank could be slit where the top and bottom half meet? This would make it a whole lot easier to clean. I'm starting to doubt that any gas tank cleaner could tackle the job. Thanks

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Go down to your local home store and get a couple gallons of muriatic acid. Plug all the holes in the tank, pour the acid in, put the cap on, tip the tank up one end, then the other end, and from side to side several times, and then let it set. Repeat the process a few times and then pour the acid back out (it can be reused). Rinse thoroughly with water, and then let it air dry out in the sun. The tank will look like brand new inside.

Baffle inside the tank also is connected to the top and bottom of the tank. Baffle also makes it difficult to get anything other than liquid to all places in the tank and all back out.

Wont work there are several cleaners like other post said get some muratic acid that will work well. there is also soap and water with nails,rocks and other stuff shake it around and drain mite have a bad tank and when the junk is out could leak. I built a tumbler with a gearhead otor and let them tumble using various stuff to clean like new again. Even cleaned one using vinegar as the old gas had lift a scum. Ive done several and not are all the same with deposits.

Thanks for the replies! If that muratic acid isn't too expensive I'll give that a shot. By "gunk" I mean a thick "1 inch" residue at the bottom of the tank due to sitting for 4 years with a alomost full tank. I couldn't move the gunk with a flag wire, but I could push the wire into it.....barely.

I'd try s gallon of lacquer thinner in there to loosen that gunk up. Not much lacquer thinner won't soften up.
Then use the acid.

Muriatic acid would be my last resort, that stuff is very agressive, and make double sure you get it neutralized.
If the "gunk" is gasoline residue I would first try pouring in some carb cleaner or berryman's chemtool and let it soak a couple of days.
If it is rust residue I would use a gallon or two of vinegar, let it set for 24-48 hours, rinse & then fill with water & add cup or two of baking soda to neutralizethe acid residue left from the vinegar, I would let this soak overnight also.
I have had a tank on an H, and later an F20 I took to a local radiator shop, they split the tank at the seams, ran them through their tanks, they re-attached the baffles, fixed any holes or leaks, resealed, and pressure tested. I had them send them out to have dipped & re-galvanized.
I beleive it was around $175 ea back then. The H tank was leaking as the bottom had rusted through, the F20 tank was badly dented, and needed a new coupling welded into the bottom for the sediment bowl.
Any liquid such as evaporust etc. may give you good results, it might take quite a few applications, depending on how bad the rust is. There are many products such as POR-15 to reseal the inside once you get it clean, but follow directions carefully, I have seen tanks that had sheets of this stuff floating in them, probably due to a poor prep job initially.

The easiest way would be to take it to a radiator shop and let them boil it and seal it. It is not all that expensive.

(quoted from post at 10:23:14 07/29/12) Thanks for the replies! If that muratic acid isn't too expensive I'll give that a shot. By "gunk" I mean a thick "1 inch" residue at the bottom of the tank due to sitting for 4 years with a alomost full tank. I couldn't move the gunk with a flag wire, but I could push the wire into it.....barely.

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It's been a few years since I've bought any, but no, it is NOT expensive.

Please do use some caution, wear eye protection and rubber gloves, and have a garden hose ready to rinse away any spills, and also, do it outdoors. The fumes alone can discolor bare metal objects such as wrenches, etc. Don't breathe the fumes either.