- Thread starter biggerred
- Start date
the tractor vet
Well-known Member
The screen in the sediment bowl . nothing else is needed .
Indiana Ken
Well-known Member
I have an 8N and run an inline filter for the same reason; a badly rusted tank. I use the clear inline fram filters and replace them when they plug. At first they plugged after a few hours use and now I get a year or two out of them. They will hold about a tablespoon of rust dust before they choke off the 8N.
I would recommend the filter be placed near the carburetor rather than near the fuel tank. This results in the maximum head presure to aid flow through the filter. My filter is in the vertical line just before the carburetor; I have never seen it run full of fuel. To check for plugging I simply remove the drain plug in the fuel bowl and observe the flow rate.
When I was in high school I ran an inline fram filter in the horizontal line ahead of the carburator on my Mustang; it did not run full either.
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
Put the sediment bowl back on there and ignore the folks who claim an in-line filter is better, That sediment bowl will catch every bit as much rust and crud as ANY in-line filter, PLUS, you can clean out the sediment bowl.
My 1940 H had one the nastiest gas tanks you've ever seen. It was so bad that even the sediment bowl inlet was totally crusted over. I cleaned it out the best I could, installed a new sediment bowl assembly, poured in some fresh gas, and never looked back. Yes, I did have to clean out the glass bowl frequently for the first few months of use, then it was down to needing cleaning just once in about 1/2 year, and then down to just a yearly cleaning.
Haven't needed to clean it at all for the last several years.
gene bender
Well-known Member
The filter is catching the small stuff replace with a new one and go. Ive used them for yrs and they will do their job so you just put a new one on and go. When the one you replaced gets dry you will see what it stopped by tapping it on something upside down. Couple have been on for a long time so i guess the super fine stuff has stopped coming out of the tank. They will catch stuff the sediment filter passes.
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
Get the good deep sediment bowl and be done with it. I have one tractor that I have to empty the sediment bowl out every time I use it but it runs like a charm so why do any thing else then dump as needed. Those fuel filter in line type cause problems and I remove every one I ever see when working on a tractor because I have found they do not work well on tractors
gene bender
Well-known Member
Old the reason they fail is they catch the fines and plug thats what they are supposed to do. I will bet you any amount of money when you put a new Fram in line the flow will be super till it catches the fines and stops good flow or even stops it altogether ive been using them for a long time and still do from time to time easy to check when they get plugged and just replace with a new one they are cheap. The screen in the sediment bowl just dont catch real fine stuff and soon the carb doesent perform like its supposed to and you will find fines in the bottom of the carb bowl then it gets into other places.
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
Sorry I can not and will not agree with you. The sediment bowl catches both the big and the fine due to the fact the fine stuff does not turn directions well so they settle at the bottom of the bowl and the screen catches what does not. As for the fuel filter being cheap $5 each give or take a buck is not cheap in my book. I have been running this A/C D-17 for years with a tank problem and the sediment bowl has done its job just fine and I have yet to have a carb problem out of it
If you think the bowl and screen catches all the fine material, then you are incorrect. That was 1910-1960 technology. Today's modern filters, both oil and fuel, catch particles down to micron size. The reason they get plugged up and reduce flow, is because they are filtering everything the sediment bowl misses. Which is often micron size particles that you can not easily see. You can do whatever you want on any of your own tractors, but let me ask you this. Would you run a sediment bowl system on your modern vehicle? I have nothing against them, but only use them on a restored tractor or until one starts leaking. When it starts leaking on a working tractor, they get pulled off and replaced with a ball valve and inline filter. I can change that inline filter and be back running before you can even get the sediment bowl off, and cleaned out.
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
Think and do as you want I'll stay with what I do and charge a case of beer for every one I throw away because the tractor will not run. That is with use and or new filters. Gravity flow systems and most in line filters cause problems and that is why I will not use them and I charge a case of beer to throw them away. I'm well over 20 cases in the years I have been throw the in line filters away
So you charge a case of beer to throw away the inline filter and install a new sediment bowl? Or you charge a case of beer to throw away the clogged up inline filter because it was trapping debris the sediment bowl missed? So if you are throwing away an inline filter on a tractor with a sediment bowl, you are doing nothing but further proving my point.
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
No I throw away something that is made to be run with a system that has a fuel pump. As I said I will do it my way your do it your way and that is that stop before this gets ugly please
Not all inline filters are made to be run with a fuel pump. There are many installed on factory designed gravity flow fuel systems. I ran one on a 100hp M with no problems. You have not directly answered a single question I have asked you, but I will let it go. All I am trying to show, is there are improved methods and ways of doing things. Some 70 year old technology is just that. It will work, but it can be made to work much better. This is why I rarely join in on this forum anymore. If you suggest things differently than has "always" been done, certain people on here beat you up over it and told you don't know what you are talking about.
Have a good one and enjoy your free beer!
Have a good one and enjoy your free beer!
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
As I said you do as you do and I'll do as I do. Plus I hate the fact that plastic and rubber lines in a tractor is a good recipe for a fire seen to many caused by a melted in line filter. One one I threw away was on a 1947 Farmall B I think that was the year. Filter was brand new and did not work on it. A few months latter I bought the tractor from the guy then sold it to a guy in the land down under. Yep sold it and it was shipped way way far away. Oh and by the way yes I understand fuel filters but then they are common on motorcycles and I have been dealing with motorcycles now for over 42 years
John G. Hasler
Member
> If you think the bowl and screen catches all the
> fine material, then you are incorrect. That was > 1910-1960 technology. Today's modern filters,
> both oil and fuel, catch particles down to
> micron size.
However, the those older carburetors do not have "micron" sized passages. The screen and bowl will catch anything large enough to plug the carburetors it was designed for.
> fine material, then you are incorrect. That was > 1910-1960 technology. Today's modern filters,
> both oil and fuel, catch particles down to
> micron size.
However, the those older carburetors do not have "micron" sized passages. The screen and bowl will catch anything large enough to plug the carburetors it was designed for.
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
Exactly!! If the sediment bowl is in place, with the correct screen in the top, and the correct fuel inlet fitting WITH the sreen is in place, there is NOTHING that can get through that will cause any problems in the carburetor.
I have rebuilt way too many Farmall H and M carburetors to let anyone CONVINCE me that any kind of in-line filter is needed.
Also, please realize that 60 to 70 years ago, gasoline was not nearly as clean as it is now, and also that MOST tractors from that era were refueled with 5 gallon gas cans, which provided even more chances of introducing contaminants into the fuel system. The sediment bowl filtering
systems worked very well back then. No reason they won't work just as good today.
John M
Well-known Member
- Location
- Nunyafn business
Dont you know that fuel filters, Case/IH oil, and 93 octane bring out the beasts in the know-it-alls here! Just relax, theyll sober up in the morning, well, except one, he threatens your life!!!
John M
Well-known Member
- Location
- Nunyafn business
To answer your question, Napa has/had one that worked great on my M. Cost about 5 bucks. I also found one at Advanced Auto that you can use either on rubber or steel line, depending on which one you buy, and you canhge the filter inside and is clear so you can see the junk that wondeful sediment bowl misses.(Im not sure the AA one is for a gravity system, but I do recall the pics showing it on a motorcycle. Itsa Mr gasket BTW.) Me personally, I done care what anyone says, its my tractor, my carb, and my engine those micronic peices are eating up!! Id much rather not have them go in there!!
gene bender
Well-known Member
You sure havent worked on the olds ones i have ran onto as those little Fram jobs sure do get stuff the screen passes and iv also cleaned my share of carbs and found fines in themat the bottom and plug the jet and also the idle circut in the small Zeniths. By the way the sediment screens sure have went up in price used to get them not too long ago for little over a dollar at NAPA had to get some new ones last ko and now they are almost 5
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
$3 will get you a new screen AND gasket.
A lot of disagreement here. None of it applies to what mine do. I have had as many as 9 Farmalls at the same time, all with sediment bowls and questionable gas tanks, none with inline filters. I have never seen the problems described in this thread, ie carb problems. The only problem I have had is something plugging the outlet. A flashlight (or the sun coming from the right angle) and a piece of wire usually takes care of that. The sediment bowls are fine and do what they are supposed to do.
Bill in IL
Well-known Member
I just use the cheap plastic ones I buy from the flea markets at tractor shows. I only have air lock issues when I run it out of fuel. Replace them every 2 years cause they gunk up and don't flow properly.
I do know that since I have added that filter I have not had any float needle sticking open issues. Well worth the aggravation of the occasional air lock when I forget to fuel the tractor. You just have to pull the line at the carb, hold it straight down wait for fuel flow,and replace.
I do know that since I have added that filter I have not had any float needle sticking open issues. Well worth the aggravation of the occasional air lock when I forget to fuel the tractor. You just have to pull the line at the carb, hold it straight down wait for fuel flow,and replace.
I want to be sure everyone realizes that when i say the gas in the tank is muddy looking, Im not streaching the truth one little bit. Ive clogged up 3 filters in 2 days with a very fine rust dust (when its dry). Will this "dust pass and burn or fill the carb? Looks like it would fill the carb bowl.
I would drain the tank, remove the sediment bowl, fill completely with water and let it drain out, (this should remove most of the gas fumes), let it sit open for 24 hours ( remove evn more gas fumes) & re rinse with warm water. The trick is to clean behind the baffle also, so either loosen the front of the tank & block it up a bit so everything drains towards the rear. After all this rinsing use a flashlight to see what is actually left.
Products such as evaporust or equivalent will remove most of the remaining rust by chemical action, even vinegar will work miracles, after soaking with vinegar as many times as necessary, fill the tank with water & use a cup or two of baking soda to neutralize the acid or just follow the directions on the product of choice to a T, this will remove most of the problem rust. Fill with a gallon or two of diesel fuel wait 24 hours & drain.
Now you are ready to re-install the sediment bowl, add a copper"stand pipe" of an inch or so ( I use a 1 1/2 in piece), simply find the correct size copper tube and attach it into the pick up portion of the sediment bowl, this prevent most of any rust that will form again on the bottom of the tank from getting into the sediment bowl to begin with.
If you decide to use an in-line filter in addition to the sediment bowl, I have had good luck with the clear glass ones that screw together, and have a plastic screen inside, if it gets "clogged" you simply remove it , unscrew it, clean it with compressed air, & re-install.
Been using them on gravity feed Harleys for decades. And they are cheap !! Be sure to install as close to the carb as possible ( I put mine even with the air cleaner) to provide enough "fuel pressure" to work properly.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...mp;utm_campaign=value3&utm_content=value4
Products such as evaporust or equivalent will remove most of the remaining rust by chemical action, even vinegar will work miracles, after soaking with vinegar as many times as necessary, fill the tank with water & use a cup or two of baking soda to neutralize the acid or just follow the directions on the product of choice to a T, this will remove most of the problem rust. Fill with a gallon or two of diesel fuel wait 24 hours & drain.
Now you are ready to re-install the sediment bowl, add a copper"stand pipe" of an inch or so ( I use a 1 1/2 in piece), simply find the correct size copper tube and attach it into the pick up portion of the sediment bowl, this prevent most of any rust that will form again on the bottom of the tank from getting into the sediment bowl to begin with.
If you decide to use an in-line filter in addition to the sediment bowl, I have had good luck with the clear glass ones that screw together, and have a plastic screen inside, if it gets "clogged" you simply remove it , unscrew it, clean it with compressed air, & re-install.
Been using them on gravity feed Harleys for decades. And they are cheap !! Be sure to install as close to the carb as possible ( I put mine even with the air cleaner) to provide enough "fuel pressure" to work properly.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...mp;utm_campaign=value3&utm_content=value4
brian_greer
New User
Pappy, where do you get this brass filter and screen from? Thanks
Hey biggerred, if the fuel is THAT dirty, you really shouldn't be trying to run it through the tractor.
For every $5 filter you throw away, you could have thrown away a gallon of gas and been ahead of the game in time and trips to the auto parts store.
How did you do this acid rinse? Did you pull the tank and pour it out the fill hole? If you just let it trickle out the bottom, all the stuff the acid rinse loosened up settled out before it could be flushed, and that's where your muddy gas is coming from.
For every $5 filter you throw away, you could have thrown away a gallon of gas and been ahead of the game in time and trips to the auto parts store.
How did you do this acid rinse? Did you pull the tank and pour it out the fill hole? If you just let it trickle out the bottom, all the stuff the acid rinse loosened up settled out before it could be flushed, and that's where your muddy gas is coming from.
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
Believe it or not, the sediment bowl would have caught that rust dust.
They don't believe it, and there is nothing you can do to change their minds.
They are convinced that just because there's "newer technology" that the old way can't possibly be any good, and they will beat you up if you try to tell them otherwise.
Food for thought... These tractors with their "no good" oil bath air cleaners and "no good" sediment bowls are still running 60, 70, 80, 90 years later... But that's meaningless...
I just wish people would agree to disagree and do whatever makes them happy.
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
Do you ever get the idea that the folks who promote the use of in-line filters just might be involved in the manufacturing, or marketing of such items?
Dean Olson
Well-known Member
The problem with sediment bowls is they can plug with debris inside the tank before it can get to the screen or bowl.
Run some compressed air from the inlet fuel line back to the tank.
Obsolete technology. There's a reason they're not used on modern equipment.
Run some compressed air from the inlet fuel line back to the tank.
Obsolete technology. There's a reason they're not used on modern equipment.
I pulled the tank, flushed with acid, chased it with diesel, then gas. I guess using the tractor, with the gas sloshing around, plus the junk behind the baffle, just loosened up more. I just tonight, pulled the tank back off so I can start the process all over again.. It's painfully odvious once was not enough.
Similar threads
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.
Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy