Rebuild C-113?

I'm seeking suggestions, recommendations, general comments for a confused ole man. All comments will be welcomed.

I'm not a mechanic by any stretchhhhh of the imagination. Yet, after retirement some years ago I've developed an interest in tinkering with 40's and 50's tractors; have enjoyed most of it and have learned lots. Much more to learn.

Am I now ready to get into the engines, or should I leave that to Ralph Brinkley and sons? I broke down the C-60 in my first cub, to unstick the engine and learn a bit; then took the whole shooting match to Ralph to put back together with new parts as needed. He did a fine job.

I have another cub I'm itching to get into the engine to see if I can do a decent job with rebuilding; but a C-113 engine is priority one. At the same time, I'm wondering if rebuilding an engine is more than a retired ole accountant who enjoys getting his hands greasy should get into? Yep, I can identify most of the parts and know the "job" of most of them. The end of my engine knowledge?

Anyone care to share some thoughts, warnings, encouragement, discouragement?

Thanks.

That engine can be in a number of tractors A, B, C and the super A so which one you playing with?? You doing a full rebuild as in sleeves and all or just a rering as some old school would call a simple overhaul??. I did and old school as in almost no new parts rebuild a bit over a year ago on an Half B half A that I call my BA since from the trans forward it is a B and from there back an A. No new gaskets and the oil and antifreeze was about all that was new. Runs great and mowed my hay this year. E-Mail is open if you ever want to talk one on one or on the phone

Thanks, Old. E-mail is on the way.

The Super A engine has its challenges (at least for me).

I'm hoping that I can get the pistons out of the Cub without damaging or driving out any sleeves; thus it is the one I'm hoping for a "simple overhaul" (rings, inserts, polish cylinder walls).

Anyone - Why should head gaskets be replaced on tractors? Are they compressed during installation and they have no further ability to properly compress when removed and re-installed?

The Cub doesent have sleeves but you can get rings that are over size. When the pistons are removed do a good job with a cyclinder hone and go with the oversize.

I don't think your Cub will have sleeves, you may have a ridge near the top of the cylinder. You would need to rent, borrow or buy a ridge reamer. Once you have that engine torn down the cylinders should be measured for wear.

The C-113 engine is easier to work on as it has wet sleeves. I did a Farmall A back in 1975 and the engine was stuck. I pulled the engine as the crankshaft was worn. That's the best way to rebuild the engine is to pull it. Take the head, connecting rods and crankshaft to your local auto machine shop. They won't grind the crankshaft unless it needs it. They will measure it then determine what needs to be done.
Buy your bearings from them. It may only need to be polished. It will look new then. Have them rebuild the head. You can buy your sleeve kit from this forum or any auto parts store. In 1975 I bought my kit from the local IH dealer and back then the kit cost $80.00. Have the shop to install the old connecting rods to your new pistons.

The old sleeves are not a press fit. I drove mine out using a piece of oak and a hammer. You will also find the old sleeve seals once the sleeves are out. You need to remove them and clean that block area thoroughly of any dirt and rust. Shine a good light in that area as the block may need cleaning. Take pictures during the teardown and make notes. They will come in handy during the rebuild.

Separate the parts as you remove them. Put them in cardboard boxes and mark where they were removed. Will save a lot of time during the rebuild. Most of the parts will need cleaning be sure to place them in the right box after cleaning. That block area at the top on the block needs to be cleaned where the top of the new sleeves sit. Here's a pic of that Farmall A in 1975. I didn't finish it until 1976 and it has the 16-inch plow on it. Hal

Yep. I said that I'd need help from y'all. No sleeves in a Cub. Thanks, Gene.

I've got several of the old Farmalls and have been in side the engines to some degree on all but one. I'm not a mechanic either but have learned a lot over the years and feel pretty good about working on the motors of these old tractors. They are very simple engines. Something like a head rebuild or grinding a crank shaft is best left to professionals. The trick is to be able to trouble shoot them first so you're not spending money where you don't have to. Definitely need some manuals. Parts manuals are excellent to show how something goes together. I&T manuals give a lot of info, including specifications. You also always have this site to ask questions. I would say if you enjoy doing it then go for it - there is always help somewhere to get out of a jam.

Sounds like you at least have some experience turning wrenches - so I'd imagine the engine would be a fun challenge.

These old engines are very forgiving, and they make a great first engine to rebuild.

I think you'll find that there's a limit to the complication. When you're new to it, it can be a little overwhelming.

You'll be removing things left and right, getting more and more nervous that you'll never remember where it all goes.

But all of a sudden you're done removing parts and you realize it's not all that bad. In fact it's quite simple.

Most parts can only go back one way, and are very obvious where they all go.

Generally speaking - and depending on how far you go with the rebuild, any part the moves should be marked or labled so it can go back to its original position. Connecting rods should stay in their position on the crank - lifters should stay in the same position on the cam, etc.

Gears should already be marked so they can be reaaligned properly - make sure you can see the marks before removing them. If not, make your own.

When you remove something - either put the bolts back in the holes - or bag them and keep them with the part. That'll save a lot of trial & error searching later.

Take pictures as you go in case you ever need to remind yourself of exactly how a bracket goes.

How much of a rebuild are you thinking? Remvoing the engine or just swapping pistons?

A woman had twin sons. They bought an old three wheeled ATV. And she made them take it to a mechanic to get it running. It would have been a GREAT learning experience for them and cheap if they wrecked it while trying it fix it. This is the same thing for you. They are forgiving engines. Go for it. ASk questions if you need more than ten minutes to figure something out by yourself. Take your time, and enjoy it. When you hear it run for the first time after doing it yourself, you will smile and feel wonderful.
SDE

I believe you can put Super C sized sleeves and pistons in a C113 to make it a 123, can't you? If it is possible, go as big as you can with them... there's nothing like more power and it won't cost you any more.

I rebuilt mine with the help of folks on here. Having the right tools to help with the job is a big factor (such as a hoist for remove front bolster and eventually the block. I took the block to a machine shop to have them dip it (cleaning) and install frost plugs etc. I also had them turn the crank and check out the cam. They also did the head which involved installing seats for the valves and installing the valves. After all that it was just a matter of installing components which was the fun part. You need a manual, but the job is pretty simple.

When I did my BA I did in fact reuse the head gasket but I did also cheat a bit and did 6 coats of aluminum paint on the head and the block. I did the BA old school like it would have had to be done back i the 40s due to farmers having a lack of $$ so they had to do what they could with what little they had.
Oh by the way check you in box you have mail LOL

By the way I may have some god used sleeves on hand here form doing the BA. I used 3 engines all be it 2 where out of Bs and the other out of the A and still have lots of parts and pieces laying around

Thanks to everyone for their responses. Y'all are great!

I have a parts manual, so I'm going to order the I&T manual for the tractor and begin the planning process.

Bore first ,leave .002 ,then hone to size.

george

Measure your old sleeves bore diameter and length. Originally the sleeve bore was 3", but if the engine was rebuilt sometime ago an over bore kit may have been installed. If it has 3-1/8" pistons you now have 123cid. I used an overbore kit back in 1975. No machining is required, but you need to measure the length of your old sleeves. Should be 6-7/8" long. Hal