1948 Cub push blade

Matt E.

Member
My father picked up a 48 cub that was in great shape plus 7 hit & miss engines (what he was really after). He has the shop manual for the cub but it came with a front mounted blade. The PO said he had never mounted it and didn't know if it was all there. Here's a couple pictures of it, is it all there?

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I have a picture of one that looks to be the same model of blade on another tractor. I can see where the two bolts attach to the side of the tractor under the rock shaft and the rod attaches to the rock shaft.

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My question is, are we missing something that attaches to/through the square hole under the front? Sorry for the dark picture, the tractor was in the barn.

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I assume the piece of metal coming out of the tube is for something else but I may be wrong. Any help?
 
Thanks Denny.

So from your pics, it looks like all we're missing the long bolt that goes through the square tube under the front bolster (sorry I don't know what that part is really called) and the two square "centering" blocks that look to keep the rod in the middle of the square tube. I assume the set screws hold the blocks in place.

The only part that doesn't make sense on the pallet picture is the short arm that looks to be newly painted. I don't see that on my blade set up nor do I see where it should go.
 
Oh, ok now I see what that part is for! It is for the belly mount on the rock shaft. So that might explain what the extra drawbar was for that also came with it! Does this mount in front of the normal drawbar? I think the long rod is for a rear cultivator?

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I think if Dad mounted in the front, he could get away with just hooking the lifting rod directly to the rockshaft to lift the unit instead of attaching the part that we don't have. If it binds, he may have to fabricate something but he'll be happy to know how it all hooks up!

I'm in Missouri and he's in western Montana. He wanted to be able to push rocks off his road to his hay field that seem to roll off the hill every year. And he'd have a use for the Cub, that and be able to push a little snow also in the winter.

Thanks for the help guys!
 
For grading it generally works best and gives smoother work, if mounted in the center. I believe you have all of the parts for that position. Front mount in buldozer position is harder to control. I think all you need for this is a piece of all thread and some square spacers to go on the all thread in the square hole.

Harold H
 
Harold I think you are right. I printed out the diagrams for Dad and will drop it in the mail for him. I think he'll likely mount it in the front for the jobs he'll need it for but I can see how the center mount would do a better job of grading.

I've run a grader quit a bit in the military and graders are only made one way for a reason! Maybe if I inherit this tractor some day, I'll know that it can be mounted both ways. Thanks guys for the information!

I've got some other pictures of my vacation to Montana that I need to share also. Helped put up hay and had a chance to get all the Farmalls (cub, F-20, 560, WD-9) out to mess around. Kids even got a driving lesson with the cub and hay rack. Fun deal for a bunch of "city slickers".
 
Have the correct center mounting bolts here,one rod appears to be homemade,missing the arm/bracket that bolts to tractor rockshaft,and the mounting square "Blocks". I call these the "Second Series" Cub blade.Later ones were modified slightly,sold as the Cub 54-A blade.As the guys said,TM Tractor Parts makes reproductions of some of the always missing parts.Mauals show up on eVilbay,likely from Binder Books as well.
 
Here's an upgrade that isn't too hard, and may be useful. Most of the Cub/A/Super A blades around here were used as snowplows. Snow plowing will subject the blade to some hard shocks, from hitting hidden objects at full throttle, with no warning. Even with the spring trip on the blade, it can be hard on the equipment. Most of them wound up with the braces to the bell housing bent or broken, or the bolts ripped out of the bell housing.

Eliminating the braces and substituting a two by ten or so oak plank from the push frame back to the draw bar adds a little more flex to the system, and puts the pressure in a straight line back to the draw bar, which is designed to take it. The A/ Super A installations were a little more complicated and generally used two, three by four or so, planks set edgewise instead of flat. Some even had steel brackets laid partway along them for reinforcement.

I don't have any pictures, as I never owned one, only repaired them for others.
 

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