Super C electrical revisited

Anonymous-0 · Jul 22, 2012

Well the regulator issue resolved. I am happy to say that it is charging the batt at 7.8v-8v nicely. Thanks guys.

The starter issue isn't quite as good. Pulled it off to replace the switch and it was full of a rodent nest of some sort and it had dies in there at some time and stunk like he##. Cleaned it all out and cleaned and painted it and brushed the contact down. Mounted new switch and cleaned all contacts. Pulled the handle and NOTHING at all. Not even a turn or spark or anything. I crank started it and it ran great then. Don't know if I got a bad switch or it is a starter issue. Had 6.3v at at the switch post. Where should I go from here? Look at starter or switch? The starter contact point was pretty flat but I don't know how tall it should be? Any ideas? Thanks

gene bender · Jul 22, 2012

That button can get worn down after all its only 60yrs pluss old. I would take the starter to a shop and have it refreshed with cleaning the commutator and new brushes maybe a bearing then it should be good as new again. A good shop can renew that button also. Finding one could be your problem as it seems like everyone wants to go to 12v instead of making the system work thats now there. You can get replacement rebuilds also.

Brownie 450 · Jul 22, 2012

Were the brush holders loose/ springs loose & brushes making good contact on the armature?
You could take the switch off of the starter, & just touch the heavy wire from the battery directly to the starter "button". This will by-pass the starting switch. If the starter turns at this point, there is trouble in the switch/ starter button. If trouble still, the starter needs attention.

Anonymous-0 · Jul 22, 2012

I never tore it open to look at it. I can try the by-pass deal and see how that works. Probably won't do anything til tomorrow now.

Anonymous-0 · Jul 22, 2012

If I determine it is the starter, would it help if I replace the starer drive? Would that be the same as a rebuild on it? Is is hard to replace brushes and do this rebuild?

Thanks

Janicholson · Jul 22, 2012

Take the new switch and file out the mounting holes so the switch contact moves toward the stud. This (when screwed to the starter) allows soild contact. It usually requires about 1/16" or as much as 1/8" Jim

Anonymous-0 · Jul 22, 2012

That's a good idea. They didn't line up the best. Cheap crap from Rural King. Reason I thought it was possibly a bad one.

Thanks

Brownie 450 · Jul 22, 2012

I'd try the by-pass thing first, then if it's a no-start, take the starter out & take it apart. Note the condition of the brushes for length & see that they are free to contact the commutator squarely. Note condition of the commutator--should be smoothe & not garfed up or saddle-backed in the middle. Take a look at the bearing/ bushing on your commutator end for wear. If the commutator & bearings are good, you can put in new brushes if all else is good, & have a good starter.
The starter drive can wait until you get the starter functioning---IF that's bad.

Brownie 450 · Jul 23, 2012

Gene--Is Pyramid still in business in IA City??

Anonymous-0 · Jul 23, 2012

After thinking about it all day, I just took the starter into a shop today and bought a reman starter and a new good switch and had it all tested. Got a warranty and hopefully this will resolve it. Also he said I am not using a heavy enough batt cable. Needs to be 2ga for 6 v. A lot of you guys said the same and you were right. Tomorrow I will hook it up and see what happens. Thanks to all of you guys.

Super C electrical revisited

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

gene bender

Well-known Member

Brownie 450

Member

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

Janicholson

Well-known Member

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

Brownie 450

Member

Brownie 450

Member

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

Similar threads