Super C question

I have a SC that my dad gave me and it won't charge the batt. so I got a new regulator to put on. Dad had put one on but touched all of the terminals and we are suspecting he shorted it out. I went over to his house and hooked up my charger so he could drive it over to my house. He said it started right off after one crank of the handle. I asked it him why he didn't use the pull start and why he cranked it. He said it won't engage the starter. I am going to get a new start switch tonight (it mounts on the starter) but he is suggesting "starter Lock". I haven't polarized the regulator and tried starting it yet because I would have to unhook the batt to replace switch and redo it. Prior to unhooking and replacing regulator, I tried the starter and it wouldn't engage and turn her over. Any help or suggestions?

Starters can lock up an engine on the old Farmalls, especially when the ring gear gets some defects. Try turning the motor over either with a crank or by turning the fan. If its turns its not the starter. If you can't move it then loosen the starter until you can move it, turn the engine off the spot where it was hung up and tighten the starter.

The tractor starts right up with the crank and runs great. Just don't want to keep crank starting it, you know how that kind of stinks. When I tried starting it with the starter, it seemed like the batt was weak. Had over 50% charge in it then. Neg is unhooked and it is on the chrger til I finish with a new switch and the regulator.

Thank you Charlie

I crank started my Super C for the first year I owned it without any issues as the charging system was totally wrecked in every mode. If done correctly it isn't an issue. If it is still an original 6 volt positive ground tractor you really need to make sure everything that is related to the starting and charging circuits are shinney clean and bright at every connection. Also, I use 00 size cable with soldered terminals for the battery cables on all my 6 volt tractors. The factory ground which is in the battery box using the instrument panel base is poor at best as it passes through a lot of chassis before reaching the starter. For a test run a good size cable to one of the starter to frame mounting bolts for the positive ground connection. I have found the battery voltage needs to be 6.2 - 6.3 generally for easy starting. Anything less just doesn't seem to work well. A weak or battery with just a couple years of age can certainly be suspect if it can't be totally charged. Your other components like the generator and voltage regulator are for charging the battery and a fully charged battery should start your tractor regardless of their condition. I recently found the push-pull switch a culprit on a 140 as too it's starting issues. Check the voltage coming out of that switch on the coil side as it should be the same as the battery voltage and if not you don't have enough current to excite the ignition components. Your thoughts on the starter switch are good but again everything needs to be shinney bright and clean. You might take the starter and have it tested also to eliminate it as being defective. NAPA or other good auto parts store generally test them free of charge. Good luck and post back your findings, Hal.

Thanks for the pointers, it really helps and gives me ideas on where to go. I am not sure if I can get the batt to full charge with my charger, I will go out right now and check since it has been on for about 4 hrs. Dad had just bought that batt last year but he left it hooked up all year and never ran the tractor since last Sept. when I painted it. I have started replacing a lot of the small worn wires from the generator to the regulator and from the dist to the coil. Tom. when I go back out and mount the switch I will check those batt wires and possibly move that ground wire to the frame. THen clean all connections. Thanks again, I appreciate it.

I mowed with my Super A, good battery and connections (tractor was restored a year ago), everything was ok. Next morning it would not even grunt. After trying several other things, I found that the starter switch was not making good contact with the brass contact under it. I did not replace the switch, but filed the brass thing and it started. Every one mentions 00 cables, on the A,B,C they are overkill, what you need is clean connections, which are much more important than the cable size, including my Super H I have 2 gauge. I have a Super A and a C with the factory ground connected through the battery box, zero problems with that also. The Super A got that connection a year ago, the C has had it for the last 10 years.

Thanks for the response. I like to take eveyones' opinion into consideration. I bought a new switch already since they aren't very expensive and it is original. I will be checking all of the connections tomorrow. THen cleaning all of them. Start with the cheapest first and go from there.

Thank you

You might consider using 10 ga wire on any wire you replace, this will offer less resistance on a 6 volt system, fewer problems down the road.
Some may find the smaller battery cables will do, but on a 6 volt system the less resistance the better, hence the larger copper "double ought" battery cables. Use a voltmeter & check the generator output when running, get the battery charged fully, then start trouble shooting the charging system. The generator & starter are easily rebuilt, but finding the man with enough experience to rebuild them correctly can sometimes take a bit of research, usually new brushes & bearings in the genny, new brushes & bearings & starter drive for the starter, and you will be good to go. Do not pitch your original voltage regulator, use a replacement to "get it going", if your research some vintage car websites they will explain how to properly clean the contacts, set the air gaps & get you old voltage regulator working as it should. Not much ever goes wrong with them, they usually burn the contacts & quit making connections to keep the battery charged without over charging.
The charging systems on these tractors were designed with daily use in mind, it is much harder on them to just sit. A battery tender is a good idea, it uses a low "trickle charge" to keep the battery amperage up.
The trick is not to let the battery get so low it loses the ability to recharge properly. I usually charge mine up with one every two to three weeks of just sitting. It sometimes takes it overnight to charge fully.
Keeping the engine tuned to start right up after a turn or two helps immensely, proper carb & ignition timing go a lot further in having one start quickly without putting such a strain on the battery or starter.

Thanks for the pointers. I ordered a rebuild kit for the gen just in case. I have never tore into one but I thought I would give it a try. I will get some 10 ga wire to give it a try.

Any of my tractors get hooked up to a batt tender, I have tried to convince my dad to do the same but he won't due to their cost. I tell him they are cheaper than replacing a batt every couple of years.

THank you

Make sure the contact on the starter case is not loose. How are the starter brushes??

I haven't looked into it yet. I got the new switch yesterday and I am gonna go out and get it mounted and clean all of the connections in a little bit. Replace all terminal ends that look sketchy and just follow the wires and look everything over.