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Calling Janicholson...

B

BigTone

Member
Jim, I followed your valve adjustment procedure (your right, it was simple) and I have a couple questions...

First, I set it so it was just tight on the feeler gauge, is that right and does it matter if they are not all exactly the same (some might be a touch tighter or looser), I heard they are forgiving....

Second, Do I need to follow firing order or can I go from one set of valves to the next (1-2-3-4)?

Thanks Jim
 
If you can pull the feeler out with a noticible but easily overcome drag, you are good to go, no tugging needed. If the rockers and valve stems were surfaced, or nice and unpocketed or worn, the adjustment will be fine. if they had wear, they might be a little noisy, but that is OK.
In my procedure, firing order is not important, as each cylinder is treated as independant. Just make sure you are looking at the valves on one cylinder, not adjacent cylinders, when adjusting. Jim
 
The easiest way to set your valves is to bring No1 piston near the fan to TDC on the compression stroke. Then counting from the fan set valves 1-2-3 & 5. Then rotate the engine 360 degrees and then adjust valves 4-6-7-8. When setting the valves cold add .003" to the hot clearance. Here's an example: .014" hot set the valves at .017" cold. Hal
 
I am going to tell ya something about setting valves , Tryen to get a hot set is anything above 70 degrees even IF you run the engine on a dynoand get every thing up to running temp by the time you pull the valve cover get your screw driver , wrench and feeler gauge get it set to TDC the valves are already cooling down and adding .003 to the set all your going to have is loose valves. Valve setting is a ART as the way i set will not even be close to your set and most people do not look while they are setting for BRIDGING of the feeler gauge and there for there set is WRONG and so far off that ya could throw a cat between the valve stem and the valve . I can set valves to give you better bottom end or better top end . If the engine is above room temp set them to spec's.
 
I have to agree with that. You can never get the valves really set hot with a standard feeler gauge. The temperature drops considerably between adjusting the first valve and the last. I prefer motors that give a cold setting. All clearances are set at equal temperature and there is no chance of burning your hands or arms on hot engine parts. We set the valves on the Farmall H a couple of weeks ago. Very easy with magneto ignition.
1). Remove the high tension lead from the magneto cover to the centre of the distributor cap.
2). Get the motor to top dead centre on Number 1 cylinder.
3). Set valves on Number 1.
4). Turn motor 180 degrees (until impulse coupling trips). Set valves on Number 3.
5). Continue the same through 180 degrees for Number 4 and Number 2.
Then check and reset them all again as necessary, having turned the motor over several times. This ensures a much better setting than just going through once.
SadFarmall
 
I agree with "The Tractor Vet" on the 70º as IH's definition of "hot". I was told this several years ago by an older IH mechanic. Like "TTV" he said as long as the temp is 70¢ set the valves to spec. That's how I've been setting the valves that way on my letter series tractors ever since & haven't had a problem. I have also seen mechanics set the valves with the engines running. If you hasve steady hands you could give that a try, mine are not any more so I rotate the engine by hand.
 
It will go easier if one does the feeling with the feeler gauge and a helper making the adjustment while the engine is running.

Back in the 1950's and 1960's some of the tank engines had 1790cid V12 engines made by Continental Engines out of MI. We set them cold. Hal
 
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