Farmall 300 Rockford clutch finger adjustment

I am getting ready to put the new used clutch disk and pressure plate from D Slater on the flywheel. I looked up the instructions in my 1958 I&T manual and it said that with the upper plate and friction plate at .851" the clutch fingers should be set to 2-7/32". This was fine till I looked at both the old and the new pressure plate assemblies and was unable to find the three holes to put bolts in to compress the springs. Currently the spacing is approximately .96" which it seems to me would throw the finger height way off. If anyone can advise me what to do I would very much appreciate it.
Zach

Some points (I) need to make.
A used driven disk may be difficult to work with.
They some times wear differentially around their circumference. The this=ckness can vary as much as .005" without affecting the way it operates.
If a set of pressure plate fingers are adjusted to a usable but non true disk, the fingers will be adjusted incorrectly. If it were me I would find three or four pieces of uniform thickness metal that were within .010" of the thickness of the driven disk. I would place them on the flywheel surface (if it is on the crank, and in the tractor, I would use double sticky tape and attach them) if it can be laid flat, easier.
Then bolt the pressure Plate onto the spacers and adjust the fingers so they are within .002" of each other measured from the Flywheel, while pushing on them with modest pressure so all slack is taken from their pivots. The adjusters should be about in the middle of their adjustment range. If one or two are wildly different, I would suspect the PP of being worn out in its pivots.
When the spacer blocks are removed, (assuming the Flywheel offset depth is to spec) the fingers should be almost level with each other when the bolts are tight. This allows the Throwout bearing to have good stroke, and correct leverage when the clutch is pushed in, with plenty of adjustability of the pedal linkage to accout for the eventual wear. This is about keeping specifications from getting in the road of best practice. Jim

Thank you very much for the advice. I can certainly do it that way. I couldn't figure out a way to do it that was suitable.
Zach

When I replaced the clutch disk and pressure plate in my Super H (SAME part number as the 300), there were no holes to compress the springs on mine either. Old or new. No holes.

It wasn't a problem. By the time I had the bolts half loosened, all the pressure was off the springs. Putting the new parts back on was no problem either. There was plenty of bolt to install everything loosely, then work my way around the flywheel tightening each bolt gradually until it was all back in place.

Thanks, I didn't have any problem taking the old one off either, I
just didn't see how to compress it to the specified position so I
could adjust the fingers correctly.
Zach

Won't it be compressed to the specified position when installed on the flywheel?

The three bolts are not used to set fingers. (I do not care what the book says, if it does)
Those three (missing bolt holes are to allow the clutch to be installed loose and with three bolts holding the PP to the FW, and three compressing the springs.
Adjustment can never be correct if the FW step distance is wrong. (I do not know what it is supposed to be)
If the step distance is good, the way i described the process (uses all six bolts in all six holes tightened to spec.) will allow adjusting the fingers to even height. (throw the specification for how high out!!)
Just get them (when pushed on firmly to take out wear) even within .002" and midway or so on their adjustment. (95% of all cars and trucks have no finger adjustment 100% of new cars do not) The clutch freeplay adjustment pulls the TO bearing away from the fingers enough to assure that they are not touching it!. Jim

Thanks, that all makes sense. The book just says "With the distance from A to B at .851" adjust the distance from B to C to 2-7/32". " It doesn't say how to get the distance from A to B correct, so I was guessing with the 3 bolts. I can't see any other way that it could be done without some kind of special press or something. I will just do it like you described and get them equal and somewhere in the mid range and leave it at that. Thank you very much.
Zach