Going to view an IH 350 Tractor - I need advice please

Jerseymilker · Jul 17, 2012

I am going to view a IH 350 tractor this coming Saturday on July 21. I'm new to tractors and new to attempted tractor repair, so please keep replies as easy to understand as possible.

The owner says it's a 1960's but from the below post it's not. I will see the manual on Saturday. IH 350, it has a 3 pt hitch. 350 is the number on the chassis. He used the tractor up until this year. Last year he parked it at the end of the summer and this year it won't start. He has it up for sale for $1500 with a loader and a mower. He tried to start it last weekend but it won't start.

I spoke to him yesterday and he says he does not want to fiddle with it any longer because he is going on vacation and does not want to spend it working on a tractor. He says he will sell the whole lot for $1000. (Canadian)

That's the background info. We are going to see it this weekend July 21. My question(s) are:

What should I be looking for/at when going to view this tractor? I don't believe the owner knows much, so it's going to be up to me to snoop around, which the owner does not mind. I'm going to buy the tractor, but I would still like some pointers on what to look for and what to do on first viewing. Also if needed what tools to take with me. Keeping in mind I'm not going to tear this guys tractor apart before buying it! lol ... As I said above I don't know anything about tractors so make your answers easy to understand please.

Thank you!

A link to a picture of the tractor is here: (I can't post a picture here, my account is to new)

http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k637/Bernie_Cosgrove/1IHCTractor.jpg

rufus80 · Jul 17, 2012

It's not from the '60s, stopped making them in 1958.

Jerseymilker · Jul 17, 2012

Thanks.

rufus80 · Jul 17, 2012

A few quick things to check- make sure the engine is not
stuck, check oil to make sure it doesn't have water in it. Also
check the radiator that it does have water. Check the loader
over make sure it isn't bent or that cylinders leak. Make sure
the tires are in good shape. For a $1000 I dont think you can
go to wrong. The biggest hurdle is going to be loading a non
running tractor with loader onto a trailer.

sflem849 · Jul 17, 2012

For those who like real dollars that is $987.17. If it's not froze up it wouldn't be that bad. If you don't know what you are looking at I don't think you can make it run and drive it on the trailer right then and there.

But here goes, an engine needs three things to make it run. Compression, Spark, and Fuel. Compression is too much work to check and if it ran last fall it should have enough to run now. That brings it to a spark or fuel problem. Fuel problems are super common coming out of storage. Spark is touchy and a pain to work on (IMO) Either of those are going to require more work than I would do in a POs yard.

Jerseymilker · Jul 17, 2012

rufus80: We don't know how we are going to load it. Chances are we are not going to take it home on Saturday. Heck we don't even know what size trailer we need. Saturday we are going to pay for it and look it over..hmmm maybe not in that order! Thanks for giving me some things to look for.

sflem849: The aim is not to make it run Saturday but just to look it over and see what I'm up against even to a little degree. And I want to at least look like I know a little something about tractors rather then just kicking the tires and sitting on it. ... Thanks for your reply...

Anonymous-0 · Jul 17, 2012

Like the other guys said, make sure it's not siezed. Make sure there is oil in the pan and antifreeze in the radiator, and not vice versa.

Take along an air compressor and a winch to get it on the trailer. The worst feature about that model is the steering box. With a loader on the tractor, it may have been badly abused, and parts are scarce.

The three point hitch looks like it has been welded some, and that's not a good sign. The top link is not hooked up on the mower and that's dangerous.

Jerseymilker · Jul 17, 2012

steve_in_mo: Thanks for the reply. How can I tell if the engine has seized? Sorry if that is a dumb question, I really don't know. Or has that already been answered for me?

jimmyjoe · Jul 17, 2012

pic

sflem849 · Jul 17, 2012

(quoted from post at 13:00:03 07/17/12) steve_in_mo: Thanks for the reply. How can I tell if the engine has seized? Sorry if that is a dumb question, I really don't know. Or has that already been answered for me?

I would assume it has a battery??? If not then the PO never REALLY tried to get it running. If the motor turns over you win. If no battery you can try and spin the motor with the fan belt, but that isn't always accurate for a novice.

You would have a heck of a time loading it IMO with a loader and something on fast hitch/3 pt.

Zachary Hoyt · Jul 17, 2012

It looks like it could be a good deal if the mower and the loader are
any good. If you buy it and it is not too far away I would consider
hiring a rollback to move it for you. Our local driver is excellent and
can drag anything onto the truck without damaging it.
Zach

Charlie M · Jul 17, 2012

Its a 300 utility style tractor. Check out the steering on it. They steer hard without any loader unless they have power steering. Chances are the loader has done damage to the steering. Damage could be in the steering box or on the pivot pin in the front end. Mine had a loader on it when I bought it and the spline on the steering wheel shaft was bad and the pivot in the front was worn oblong. Might want to see if the TA works also although the tractor is useable if it doesn't work - just don't have a low range.

Jerseymilker · Jul 17, 2012

Zachary: It's not that far from us. And we know someone that can help get it loaded. Thanks for the advice.

Charlie: It says it's a 350 on the Chassis. Not having experience with tractors and I do mean none. I can check the steering even if the tractor does not start? Sorry what's TA? How expensive is a fix if the steering is shot?

rufus80 · Jul 17, 2012

In the picture the so called three point looks like a fast hitch
that someone welded on some brackets to.

Charlie M · Jul 17, 2012

Its painted like a 300 U but a 350 U is basically the same tractor but a couple of years newer and a little more horse power. I think 350's were made in 1957 - 1958.Some guys liked to repaint a 300 to look like a 350. I think a 350 is a slightly better tractor than a 300. A TA is a torque amplifier used on IH tractors starting in the 50's. It give you a high and low range by simply pulling a lever on the side. I think you had to have a TA as part of having a live PTO.If they have been mistreated or maybe just have a lot of hours there are things that can happen - most often the low side is not working. They are several hundred dollars to repair. They can also just need adjustment but I know I'm never that lucky. It was possible to buy them without the TA but I don't think there were many like that. Some guys don't care if the low side ever works. Concerning the steering if there is a problem parts can be hard to find depending on the problem.

Jerseymilker · Jul 17, 2012

rufus80: That is one thing we will find out for sure on Saturday. It's one thing we know about 3 point hitches. That's what the seller said it was, I can't verify that right now, but soon.

Jerseymilker · Jul 17, 2012

Charlie M: Is there anywhere I can look to see if it really is a 300? On the frame or something? How can I check the steering? What am I looking for?

Jerseymilker · Jul 17, 2012

sflem849: I would assume it has a battery??? If not then the PO never REALLY tried to get it running. If the motor turns over you win. If no battery you can try and spin the motor with the fan belt, but that isn't always accurate for a novice.

You would have a heck of a time loading it IMO with a loader and something on fast hitch/3 pt.

Hmm good question, I have no idea if it has a battery. I just asked him if it had one. I guess his answer will as you said, tell me if he really tried or not to get it started.

Brownie 450 · Jul 17, 2012

Take a look where the front axle braces--rods--- attach to the main frame. With a loader on these units, the front axle took a lot of pressure & sometimes broke the casting they are attached to. I've seen them welded up to hold, but they are better if not welded.

Jerseymilker · Jul 17, 2012

Thanks, I will check that. I'm making a list of everything to check and look at. I'd rather do that then forget something.

Charlie M · Jul 17, 2012

I'm not sure what the differences was between the tractors beside paint job. Maybe start another post and ask that question. I'm at work so I cant look at the serial number plate but I would start there - its near the sediment bowl on the right side.On the steering best way is to drive the tractor and see if there is a lot of slop or any grinding noises. See if turns the same amount in both directions. If it has power steering I'm not sure what to look for as mine doesn't have it. On mine the steering wheel was in bad shape and turned on the shaft. I'm not quite sure what you will visually see on the front end pivot to know if there is a problem - I had mine off the tractor when I saw it.

Good luck with it - not sure of the exchange rate but the price you mentioned seems like a good deal if the tractor is in resonable condition. Around here one of those tractors in good shape is about $2000 US without any attachments.

Kyrock · Jul 17, 2012

Keep in mind,,with the tractor not running, there are a LOT of IFS..Think about how much more money you would want to put in it...I have been there and done that..

Jerseymilker · Jul 17, 2012

Charlie M: Thanks for that, at least now I have things I can do to get a feel for the condition of the tractor. The husband says the seller was supposed to put in a battery. The seller has not gotten back to me on that yet.

Jerseymilker · Jul 17, 2012

(quoted from post at 19:27:22 07/17/12) Keep in mind,,with the tractor not running, there are a LOT of IFS..Think about how much more money you would want to put in it...I have been there and done that..

I hear ya!!

rhtx55 · Jul 17, 2012

If it's a 300 the side of the engine block will have a raised stamp with C169, if it's a 350 it will be stamped C175. These are behind and above the oil filter cannister. That's not entirely fool proof either as the engine blocks will readily interchange, and may not be original to this tractor.
The serial number off the aluminum tag attached to the clutch housing(if it is still there) will determine what year & model it is for certain.
If the tag is missing, the engine serial number will be stamped on a flat boss where the block & water jacket cover meet between the distributor & oil filter cannister. It's usually very hard to make that one out as paint & rust obliterate the shallow stamp, better to wait until you get it home.
The one issue to check carefully on either model is the front end, the swept back axle design was prone to bending if the loader was ever overloaded, and the spindles were prone to wear at the steering knuckle on top where the tie rods connect. If it has power steering that would be a plus, but if not that is not a major issue as these tractors steer pretty easily once the front end components have been rebuilt. Be prepared for numerous pesky hydraulic fluid leaks, as the orings were not originally designed for over 50 years of use. If all the connections show signs of leaking that's a good sign the hydraulics have been run hot, count on replacing the hydraulic pump. If the engine oil is overfull on the dipstick
( if the engine has a dipstick it is a late 55 or 56, if it has the older style petcocks on the side of the oil pan it's a late 54 to mid 55) that's another good sign the pump seals are leaking. These are all not deal breakers, as most of these model tractors were used extensively, but certainly a price bargaining chip

larryanderson · Jul 19, 2012

Just from the picture the loader is worth what it
weighs,the mower would be hard to lift without
third link,it appears it is a fast hitch with 3pt
adapters.Not running it would bring around $200 a
ton although it has dropped some I would guess at
around 3 ton.$1000 isnt that much but if you have
to spend much and your knowledge is limited I
would buy something that runs and drives as it can
get real spendy if TA,motor,or steering components
are bad.I buy many tractors and if they wont
drive on trailer no matter how cheap I dont buy
them.

Jerseymilker · Jul 21, 2012

We saw the tractor today. It's definitely an IH 350 Utility. It's looks nice and it's in good condition.

It has a modified 3 pt hitch. Part of it was missing so he had to improvise and make the part that was missing. Someone noted here or in another forum that the top part of the mower was not attached to the tractor making it dangerous. That was the way the picture was taken, but today it was hooked up correctly.

It does read C175 that was the first thing I looked for.

The whole loader system looks home made, but it's not bent and there are no leaks.

Gas was fresh, no water anywhere.

The seleniod was a year old and a complete tune up was down at the beginning of summer last year.

We fiddled with it a bit and it still would not run. We even by passed the seleniod and hooked the battery up to the starter, nothing.

Does it matter if the battery that the guy was using is a car battery? I'd told there are tractor batteries and car batteries. What is the difference?

The tractor will be coming home in about 3 weeks unless we can find time to go and load it sooner. He sold it to us for $1000.

sflem849 · Jul 21, 2012

No, a car battery will start a tractor just fine. Tractor batteries can live longer with all the vibration on a tractor, but a car battery will work.

So the starter doesn't turn? That is why you bypassed the solenoid? It has spark? It has fuel?

Jerseymilker · Jul 21, 2012

sflem849: No, a car battery will start a tractor just fine. Tractor batteries can live longer with all the vibration on a tractor, but a car battery will work.

So the starter doesn't turn? That is why you bypassed the solenoid? It has spark? It has fuel?

It had new fuel. He bypassed the seleniod and hooked up to the started to see if it would turn over. The started did nothing. We did see sparks from the starter when he touched the starter with the battery cable.

The tractor is 6V and he was using a 12V battery. Would that not burn out the seleniod?

Going to view an IH 350 Tractor - I need advice please

Our Phone System is Down!

We are working to resolve the issue ASAP! Thanks for your patience!

New User

Member

New User

Member

Well-known Member

New User

Well-known Member

New User

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

New User

Member

Well-known Member

New User

New User

New User

Member

New User

Well-known Member

Member

New User

New User

Member

Well-known Member

New User

Well-known Member

New User

Similar threads