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Going to Paint the Super M.

F

Fullers Farmalls

Member
I've been talking about it for a while but I have made up my mind that I am going to paint it. I got the decals and a few other small things that needed to be replaced ordered. I am thinking of a new wiring harness as the old one could probably use an updating. And will buy a spray gun and spray the tractor. Also going to use a primer to help the paint stick and to stop any rust. It won't be up to Colbys standards but I might as well do it once and do it right. =) I can't wait to get started now. Heres a few now pictures. Cant wait to post the after. I'll be here with a lot of questions along the way.
a76413.jpg

a76419.jpg
 
There is a lot more to it than just buying a gun and painting it. Leave it alone unless you are willing to replace all the gaskets and seals, along with removing all the rust. It takes me at least a year to "restore" a tractor, and the entire process is aimed at painting. Info is on the paint and bodywork forum on this site. If you are in a hurry, you won't like what you read. I am currently working on a Super M, maybe half done, it has been disassembled since last fall. And good paint and primers is going to cost you at least $4-$500.
 
(quoted from post at 06:44:41 07/17/12) I dont think he is going to restore it i think he is just trying to get a new coat of paint and still use it.
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Parade Ready...looks good from 50 feet if it's always moving. :lol:
 

I agree, that one does need paint. If you get the paint gun, you'll also need a good air compressor, and you'll need a water trap and filtering apparatus in the line supplying the air to the paint gun. It's amazing just how much water an air compressor can pump, especially in these humid conditions, and nothing will mess up a paint job quicker than a bunch of water being applied right along with the paint.

Also, make sure those tires are completely masked off. Nothing says "amateur" quite like a bunch of overspray on the tires.

I will also suggest practicing on something that really doesn't matter. Paint guns don't always cooperate with your best intentions.
 
Gold has it right. I'm not going for a restoration. Im going for a red tractor. I will take time to do my prep and I have about a month to work on it.
 
You hit the nail on the head. I will be taking a lot of time to tape
off the wheels when it comes time to paint them. Also plan to
wire wheel most of the cast and have a steam genny to help
me clean it. Finally I don't have the best compressor but I do
have access to one that does. I don't want a show room ready
peice but need to stop some of the rust and take it back to its
original red.
 
I should also add that this won't be done for quite sometime. I know the amount of prep work involved. I plan to take my time and do as best of job as I can with the money I have and the time I have.
 
(quoted from post at 08:42:30 07/17/12) Gold has it right. I'm not going for a restoration. Im going for a red tractor. I will take time to do my prep and I have about a month to work on it.
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I think I said it in your last thread. All my neighbors do is a SERIOUS hot pressure washing and their paint looks very good. Yeah, it is iffy in some spots but it looks better than your tractor right now. (no offense... :lol: )
 
Stop by your local body shop and buy a roll of blue plastic! Workks great with masking tape to block off big areas like tires, walls, etc. When finished you can just bunch it up and toss it.
Also, don't place your just sprayed sheet metal in the sun to dry! (learned the hard way)John
 
I've found it is easier to separate the tractor in two different catagories. Cast and sheet metal. I remove all of the sheet metal related parts such as the hood, grill, pto cover, head lights, oil filter canister, battery box, etc. I paint the stripped down tractor that is cast. I then take EXTRA time to prep and finish the sheet metal, then paint the sheet metal parts carefully. Assemble and then rewire.
 
On this 48 H I power washed the crap out of it, sanded down the sheet metal and painted it. Its a working tractor and looked about the same as your Super M when I started. I just wanted it to be red with Farmall on the side of the hood. Turned out better than I would have imagined. There's some overspray on the tires but once there's a good coat of dirt, mud and manure on them, I don't really think I'll see it and frankly I don't mind. It looks a darn sight better in red than it did in rust!!! Kippster
a76458.jpg
 
A little paint thinner and that overspray would have rubbed right off. I have also heard of greasing the tires before hand.
 
In the end all that matters is that you are happy with the end result. Mine is painted with valspar primer, valspar paint, and valspar hardener. I didn't have any intention of having a perfectly restored trailer queen with original dot head IH bolts. That kinda stuff is fine if thats what you're into. I'm a farmer. In my opinion, its a FARM TRACTOR not a 66 Corvette. My tractor sees hard work every day just like IH intended. There are already scratches in the paint and manure on the rims but it still looks better than before!! Remember, this is YOUR tractor to do with as YOU want. Have fun and good luck. Kippster
 
Its already gone. Green ScotchBrite pads and a
little tiny bit of Lestoil. Then a good blast from
the garden hose. Thanks for the tip though!!
Kippster
 
(quoted from post at 13:20:13 07/17/12) Kippster yours is what made me want to do mine.kine just looks bad so i figure I owe it to that 65 year old tractor to clean it up.
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This about how far you take it down:


9246.jpg



I did not do a full restore either as I use mine also, I made a 60 year old well maintained tractor!!!!

It drives the correct police nuts!!!


9247.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 09:39:36 07/17/12) Its already gone. Green ScotchBrite pads and a
little tiny bit of Lestoil. Then a good blast from
the garden hose. Thanks for the tip though!!
Kippster
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I should add you have to get on it within a couple days or it won't work.
 
Wow Kevin!! She looks great!! Basically my H is
farm re-paint with new decals. Kinda like when you
take a car in to have a $100 dollar paint job done
on it. Bein a farmer, I don't have time to be that
detail oriented with a machine that works every
day. My H is my "big" tractor and I couldn't
afford to have it out of commission for more than
3 days. The paint really had no other purpose
other than to please my eyes and thwart the rust.
From what I've read, IH painted them on the
assembly line on steel wheels while they were
running and then removed the steel, installed the
rims w/ rubber tires an stuck the sheet metal on.
Two thumbs up on a very nice job. Kippster
 
(quoted from post at 13:47:46 07/17/12)
(quoted from post at 09:39:36 07/17/12) Its already gone. Green ScotchBrite pads and a
little tiny bit of Lestoil. Then a good blast from
the garden hose. Thanks for the tip though!!
Kippster
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I should add you have to get on it within a couple days or it won't work.
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Mine does not work every day, only to do the gardens and misc tasks.

I found that there were too many areas which were not really accessible without taking it down.

It does not take long to tear it down that far.
 
Mine does not work every day, only to do the gardens and misc tasks.

I found that there were too many areas which were not really accessible without taking it down.

It does not take long to tear it down that far.
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Yours looks very good. Did you just pressure wash it or did you do more?

I meant you had to rub off the overspray with paint thinner within a couple days. It wouldn't be too outragous to tear a tractor down that far in a couple days. Then again if it were mine there would be 6 things screwed up that I would need to take care of first. :lol:
 
(quoted from post at 14:16:37 07/17/12) That turned out nice. I have a couple of Ms if you want to practice some more. :)
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I do not need any more practice!!! :lol:

One more pic

9250.jpg


Another

9251.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 15:40:04 07/17/12)
Mine does not work every day, only to do the gardens and misc tasks.

I found that there were too many areas which were not really accessible without taking it down.

It does not take long to tear it down that far.
Click to expand...

Yours looks very good. Did you just pressure wash it or did you do more?

I meant you had to rub off the overspray with paint thinner within a couple days. It wouldn't be too outragous to tear a tractor down that far in a couple days. Then again if it were mine there would be 6 things screwed up that I would need to take care of first. :lol:
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Couple of days???????? :roll:

That tear down is about 4 hours. A lot more time in scraping, brushing, de-greasing etc.
 
You never know what you are going to get when you go to get the rims off. I see you wimped out by not taking the wheel weights off.
 
Four hours to disassemble?? Mine are totally taken apart. Front bolster taken off, wheels off the bolster and disassembled, clutch and brake pedals removed, covers over brakes, engine is removed and stripped of governor, carb, distributer, water pump, oil canister and base, radiator and outlets, hyd pump and tubes -- block, head, and valve cover painted separately. Starter, generator and bracket. Wheel weights are off. Steering wheel, shaft and vertical rod, light bar, lights, ammeter box. Gear shift lever, belt pulley. Seat, box it sits on, seat spring and shock absorber. The PTO can be painted mounted because everything can be accessed. The only other exception is the rear wheels, painted while on because of weight. Rims are off. Anything that can be unbolted I remove. I'm sure I missed something in this list but it is removed also. That is the ONLY way to get uniform coverage on the whole tractor with zero missed places anywhere.
 
No its not.You dont have to totally tear a tractor apart to paint it that well. Plus most of the places you are talking about will never be seen once the tractor is reassembled. I paint them with the front bolster,pedals, and other parts you mentioned on the tractor. I have only painted 50 or so tractors...maybe I am doing something wrong.
 
(quoted from post at 18:37:50 07/17/12) No its not.You dont have to totally tear a tractor apart to paint it that well. Plus most of the places you are talking about will never be seen once the tractor is reassembled. I paint them with the front bolster,pedals, and other parts you mentioned on the tractor. I have only painted 50 or so tractors...maybe I am doing something wrong.
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I bet I could find more spots you missed than CNKS missed. What do you say, buck a spot?
 
I just like complete coverage. Professional painters can't afford to do what I do. You say the hard to get to places can't been seen, but I know where they are, so they get painted. Almost all the parts I pull off need some sort of repair anyway. No sense in putting them back on and then painting. A spray gun is designed to be held a certain distance from the surface and moved over the surface at a constant speed with 50% overlap. That can't be done if you slow down to squirt paint into inaccessible places -- Its hard enough to paint cast with all the curves, etc, anyway. That's why I strip it. With 50 tractors painted, you probably do it for money, therefore you do what you can to make money. In general if a tractor needs paint, it needs a lot of other things too. No such thing as the sales talk of "only needs paint". I'm not telling professional painters how to paint, I'm trying to make the point to others that painting takes a lot of work, and that in most cases they will find it to be more work than they intended -- thus most use shortcuts.
 
(quoted from post at 22:15:44 07/17/12) Four hours to disassemble?? Mine are totally taken apart. Front bolster taken off, wheels off the bolster and disassembled, clutch and brake pedals removed, covers over brakes, engine is removed and stripped of governor, carb, distributer, water pump, oil canister and base, radiator and outlets, hyd pump and tubes -- block, head, and valve cover painted separately. Starter, generator and bracket. Wheel weights are off. Steering wheel, shaft and vertical rod, light bar, lights, ammeter box. Gear shift lever, belt pulley. Seat, box it sits on, seat spring and shock absorber. The PTO can be painted mounted because everything can be accessed. The only other exception is the rear wheels, painted while on because of weight. Rims are off. Anything that can be unbolted I remove. I'm sure I missed something in this list but it is removed also. That is the ONLY way to get uniform coverage on the whole tractor with zero missed places anywhere.
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My limited disassembly was 4hours. when I worked for thr dealer a repaint was wash,some masking, grease on gauges and spray them.

If I decide to RESTORE I will do a better job!!!! 8)
 
(quoted from post at 22:12:59 07/17/12) You never know what you are going to get when you go to get the rims off. I see you wimped out by not taking the wheel weights off.
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You talking to me?
 
(quoted from post at 22:12:59 07/17/12) You never know what you are going to get when you go to get the rims off. I see you wimped out by not taking the wheel weights off.
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You talking to me?
 
(quoted from post at 23:41:10 07/17/12) I just like complete coverage. Professional painters can't afford to do what I do. You say the hard to get to places can't been seen, but I know where they are, so they get painted. Almost all the parts I pull off need some sort of repair anyway. No sense in putting them back on and then painting. A spray gun is designed to be held a certain distance from the surface and moved over the surface at a constant speed with 50% overlap. That can't be done if you slow down to squirt paint into inaccessible places -- Its hard enough to paint cast with all the curves, etc, anyway. That's why I strip it. With 50 tractors painted, you probably do it for money, therefore you do what you can to make money. In general if a tractor needs paint, it needs a lot of other things too. No such thing as the sales talk of "only needs paint". I'm not telling professional painters how to paint, I'm trying to make the point to others that painting takes a lot of work, and that in most cases they will find it to be more work than they intended -- thus most use shortcuts.
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It is all about what the owner wants in the end.

Many talk about "restoration", to me that means as it left the factory.

These old farmalls were poorly done at the factory so most of the repaints are better than new. They were painted mostly assembled and many areas never had paint.

Not many people paint them like factory as they look bad.
 
I paint tractors because I love doing it, I am good at it, and to make money. But I paint each one as though it is going to the big show.
 
nice tractor
jump right in, you'll do fine
cleaning/painting a working tractor is fun work.
painting is forgiving, assemble an engine wrong,
and a rod will come flying out the side,
paint mistake? sand it down and try again

I'm strictly low budget, so I spray the tin(removed),
and brush the cast and wheels.(with a touch-up spray here and there)
(cuts down on the fumes and overspray mess in the shop.)

like said, if it ain't supposed to be red, mask/grease/remove it.
And spend time getting the tank-hood-nose perfect,
that's what YOU will be seeing every time you use it.
An imperfection there will draw your eye always.

If it's a hard worker like mine are, next year at this time,
it'll look a mess anyway (but the paint will still be good)
 
(quoted from post at 05:19:35 07/18/12) Lets make it $1000 a spot. That is if you want to run with the big dogs.
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Sounds like a plan. :lol: I would have at least $2000 to start with because I'm sure I could find no paint and probably left over grease behind both frame rails. Those things are annoying.
I pressure washed my WD-9 for 2 hours and my hand still get greasy when I take stuff off. :roll:
 
so many great comments here.... and I agree with most.

In my limited farmall project experience I would tell anyone this before starting a project:

-Have a budget, and be careful because it will go fast.
-Clean it, clean it, clean it. I know we cleaned ours at LEAST 5 times with hot water before it was actually clean, that was AFTER many parts were removed...
-The farther you go tearing it down the better job it will be.

After that it's all up to you... my example of a "restore" job is what I wanted and I know some people will NOT care for it all and that is PERFECTLY fine with me. :)

YOUR tractor looks GREAT!!!

See the story and LOADS of photos:

http://colby560.shutterfly.com/
 
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