Hauling an H on Trailer

AL Moyer

Member
Going to pick-up a 53 Super H on the 21st. The trailer's deck is 82"W x 15'10"L, figuring it would be best backed on as the rear wheels would be ahead of the axles, & assume it would be best to keep as close to the front axle of the trailer. Probably 3 1/2hr drive, mostly duel highway. Used this same trailer to haul my 48 Temco Swift airplane project in from western Pa., although it was much lighter, it was 10'6" wide, had the main gear sitting on a pair of 2 x 12's running across the deck, made it all the way home with out getting pinched ! Any helpful info on hauling the H would be welcome. AL
 
pulling a full load on a bumper hitch trailer with a pickup have the rear bumper go down about three inches when loading your tractor. it will pull well without swaying.
 
I second what Randy said. Just a slight dip by your rear bumper is enough to show that you aren't too heavy behind the trailer axles.. which results in the "tail wagging the dog."
If you find yourself in that situatino, a quick tap on your brake control unit switch, (not your vehicle brakes) can take the sway out so you can safely pull over and adjust your load.
Either way, take it easy til you know how the trailer is going to handle and don't let the hassle of undoing the tie downs dissuade you from making the needed adjustments.
 
Uncle Henry, If I remember correctly, when I measured when I looked at it, it was 84" out to out on the rear wheels, don't really want to go to the trouble of moving the wheels in, might have to cock it slightly on the trailer, but hopful it will fit with only a 1" on either side! AL
 
If it has 13.6s you need them all the way in. No real way of cocking it on a low boy trailer. Bring a jack a 3/4 drive a pipe and some pb blaster. You dont want to be off balance going that far.

Andrew
 
It's safer to load it backwards, but to balance the tractor your front wheels are going to be almost off the trailer, depending on the length. I always load them front end first. The rears are not hard to move in, move them in until almost on the axle housing. Turn the wheel so that the clamp is either vertical or upside down, I seem to have better luck with the clamp vertical. I also use a hitch equalizer which distributes the weight between the trailer and the pickup. On my half ton it almost levels the truck. The statement about a 3 inch bumper drop is about right, with the equalizer it is less than that. Your trailer wt and tractor wt combined will be about 7000 lbs, more or less depending on wheel weights and fluid in the tires. If a 7000 lb GVW trailer, loaded tires will put you over that.
 
CNKS, Have a F-250, the trailer has 4ft. of deck behind the rear of the fenders, & 6'7" ahead of the fenders. My concerns about moving the wheels in is it could turn out to be an all day affair. I'm pretty sure that they're not going to move in that easy. Think how long they've been in the position they are now, probably from the factory ? AL
 
Here's a picture of how I hauled an H 300 miles. The balance was fine. My wheels were pretty much set all the way in and they just fit inside the fenders where it was 82" wide.

8136.jpg
 
dstates, Looks almost like the same trailer I would be using, But tell me how long time wise did you spend moving in the wheels ? & what was the biggest problem in the whole process ? Thanks, AL
 
(quoted from post at 14:23:27 07/11/12) dstates, Looks almost like the same trailer I would be using, But tell me how long time wise did you spend moving in the wheels ? & what was the biggest problem in the whole process ? Thanks, AL

If it hasn't been all that long ago the wheels were moved, it might take just a few minutes to slide 'em all the way in. If it has been several years since they were last moved, bring a BIG wrench, plenty of muscle, and a healthy dose of patience.
 
As others said take a big wrench, a pipe, PB Blaster AND a jack and some cribbing or jack stand. When you get the wheel bolts loosened, jack the tractor up on one side. Run one of your chains through and over the spoke at 12 o'clock, behind the wheel and under the axle. clamp it off. Lube the inner part of the axle well with the penetrating oil. Now in neutral just rotate that wheel hard and as the chain gets shorter it will pull that wheel right into the axle. Fast easy way to move them in.
 
I have been moving these wheels all my adult life and it is not a job to be feared. If you follow the instructions of those who have already commented you will do just fine. I would allow about 30 to 45 minutes to move the wheels. Unless you use a diferent trailer (over the wheels) you do not have a choice.
 
Alan,

I got lucky. The wheels were already moved in that far. I think if I remember right, the width of the rear tires was 78". Not sure why my Grandpa had them at that width, but I was thankful :)
 
If you can get the bolts loose they will move, unless you want to bend the fenders on your trailer. When you drive the tractor on you will notice less room than you think you have. What is the GVW of the trailer? If the wheels have 5 bolts it is 7000 GVW or less. With 8 bolts your GVW is probably ok. When I load a tractor front first the rear tractor wheels are between the trailer wheels + or -. I have an 18 ft 7K GVW, roughly 8 ft in front of the fenders and 5 ft behind. Yours is shorter than I like but should be ok. I moved a 350 row crop last summer, probably 7500 lbs including the trailer, or 500 lbs illegal. Half ton GMC with a 4.10 rear axle. Pulled it very well at about 65 mph, about 10 mpg.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top