Super MTA brakes

JD Tim

Member
I know there are some grumblings about the disk brakes and I"m learning why. Is there any way to make them better? Previous owner had installed new pads and I was wondering if anything else can be done? It takes everything I have to get it to stop.
 
They work fine when you take care of them. If the discs are glazed over scuff them up. Then make sure that the ramps and balls are clean and shiny. Done.
It is all in the brake service manual. They have a 10(ish) step thing that goes right over what you need to check out.
 
Make sure the splines are clean & not grooved badly. If grooved badly, touch them up with an angle grinder with a 1/8 disc.
 
I agree with gold 1456-the Super M discs are a lot better than the M & H bands. Once you get them fixed they work a lot longer than the band types, don't need as much attention AND they're not so complicated or complex that it's cheaper to buy another tractor instead of repairing brakes.
 
Research the archives on how to work on them. Very straight forward. Mine work great now and have for several years.

The "secret" for me was to have the brake drum surface milled. This is the surface that mates to the bull pinion retainer.

Take off enough to account for the wear of the expanders, bull pinion retainer, and drum. These are the surfaces that the pads contact.

Another issue I had was some time in my SH's past the PO replaced the fine thread bolts and they were too long. These are the bolts that thread through the brake pedals into the expander yoke. They bottomed out in the yoke and wouldn't allow enough adjustment.

I took my pads and bead blasted them lightly to knock the glaze off, just rough them up a little.

My SC,200,SH & 300 will lock the tires up and release easily.
 
The easiest thing to do is try adjusting them. Simply turn the "ball nut" at the front of the brake housing clockwise for more brakes.

It's also possible that the previous owner didn't do what he said he did. Take one apart and see what's going on in there.

All of the braking surfaces can get a glaze built up on them. Knock that off by lightly dressing the surface with an angle grinder.

Your brakes could be worn, and may need a few thousandths removed from the lip of the brake housing to bring everything closer together. If you've got a mill yourself or a machinist friend, it's an easy job.

If all else fails, take your old disks to a clutch shop and have them re-lined with CLUTCH liner instead of brake material.

Usually the reason the disk brakes suck is because people lock them to park the tractor, then forget to take them off when they drive away.
 
If the ramps in the expanders are worn you can use some copper-based, hi-temp, anti-sieze on them. When my SM gets used regularly I do that once a year. Regular grey anti-sieze gums them up.
 
Having just completed a brake job on my Super M, I agree with everyone else so far on the brakes.

1. Remove the brake housings and verify that the surfaces are not glazed over and that everything is clean.
2. Dust boots keep dirt and dust out, which prolongs the friction surfaces inside.
3. I was able to use a 4" wire wheel to deglaze surfaces. Having some turned on a lathe may be necessary for extreme pitting, glazing, or rust.
4. Clean and smooth the expanders, ramps, and ball bearings that ride in the ramps. Again, I used a 4" wire wheel on everything to remove rust and built up dirt.

After reassembly and proper adjustment the brakes are awesome and have no problems stopping the tractor. With a multi-ton piece of iron rolling along, you're time is worth looking inside the brake housings.

I have a few photos up here: http://farmhacker.wordpress.com
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top