460 starting problems

reddog300

New User
I have replaced the battery & coil in my 460 with a new battery/coil unit because it would start than stall when I let go of the start button. It worked the first time just fine of course I charged the battery up before restarting. Then did some light work with it for about an hour and turned it off. 3 or so hours latter I try to turn it back on and nothing. The battery metered only about 10.3 volts so I charged it again, and it started and I put her in the barn for the night. This tractor has a -GND 12 volt battery and a genorator. On our 300 which is +GND 6v with genorator we have to repolorize the genorator every now and then when working on the electrical.

Do I need to do this for the 460 as well? It's not in the 460 manuel but is in the 300 manuel, will I damage any thing if I do polorize? and if I do polorize what do I jumper to where?
 
Since it will start while holding the starter button I think you have a defective ballast resistor between your ignition switch and the coil. You should also have battery voltage on the terminal on your ignition switch that feeds voltage to your coil. Use a volt metter and check for battery voltage when the switch is in the on position. If there's no voltage on that terminal to your coil you need to check your switch to see if voltage is being fed to your switch. If there's voltage being fed to the switch you probably have a defective switch. Hal
 
Unless this is a really tiny battery, ONE hour of running would not drain it down to 10.3 Volts. We've run tractors for 2-3 entire DAYS just on the battery.

Even leaving the ignition key on for another 3 hours would not drain it that far.

You've got a MAJOR drain on the battery somewhere, or a faulty battery.

Unhook the battery, charge it up, and leave it sit disconnected overnight. Measure the voltage the next morning.

As it is, I would leave the battery unhooked when you're not using the tractor until you find the problem because you have a MAJOR draw, probably a short circuit. Could be a risk of fire there if you've got oil/gas leaks.
 
Charge the battery with it not connected at the positive terminal. With everything off, and battery disconnected, check the voltage between the cable end and the post it goes on. More than .15 volts is a battery draw. (it may be reading 12 volts) if so, remove the arm wire from the Gen and check the volts again. If it is gone, or very small, the cutout points in the regulator are stuck. Light polishing and wiping with a folded dollar can be a cure. Or new Reg. Jim
 
I replaced the coil & resistor before this problem to solve the not staying on problem. After I put the new coil/resistor in it starts fine if I charge the battery up. It is behaving like the battery is not charging, thats why I wondered about polorizing the genorator.

Thanks Joe
 
Use a volt meter and check the charging voltage across your battery terminals with the engine at 1/2 throttle or better. Should see 14.5 volts if you have a 12 volt battery. Your low voltage could be the reason for your engine not starting. Hal
 
If you have 14 volts across the battery terminals
with the engine running your generator is charging, but you may have something draining the battery when the engine isn't running. Hal
 
Everyone is on the mark with checking the problem out. I would add to charge the batt. overnite, with the one terminal off, & then put an ammeter [30-0-30] or greater between the batt post & the disconnected heavy cable with the engine off. See what amps are being drawn--if any. Then turn on the switch---the lights---& other electrical loads to see if anything is out of normal draw.
 

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