Farmall 450 Gas timing question.

Hello,
I just recently had some issues with my tractor, started backfiring and stuff, in an older post a few days ago. Looks like replacing the condenser and cleaning the fuel filter did the trick, or so I thought... I haven't really put it under any type of load, like baling my pasture to make 100% sure.

I decided to put a timing light on it. Had it hooked up to the front spark plug, closest to the radiator. I can see the notch on the pully pretty near the little pointer on the engine, but... the notch moves around. Probably about 1/2 inch or so.

Is this the cam that could be broken that goes to the distributor(also from one suggestion from my other post)? Or is this normal? Like I said, it seems to run pretty smooth now, I just didn't drive it too much yet, maybe 15min...

Thanks
Tony
 
If it is jumping around First check for a loose rotor as it SHOULD FIT the shaft tightly , next take a good look at your points. IF they are pitted then replace them , Next is to check the condition of the centrif. advance springs in the dist. If they are loose or broken then ya got a problem and this needs fixed . Once ya have checked all that and fixed any problems there then see how it does.
 
can also be a shot distributor shaft. If you can move the shaft that holds the rotor on a "go$od" deal that can cause your timing to jump as well. $50 buck bushing from CNH...

Andrew
 
Tony - Timing notch "dancing" a half inch around the pointer is a bit excessive. The most likely cause is worn distributor shaft bushings.

Remove the rotor button and check the shaft for radial runout (side to side play). If the runout's more than a couple thousandths it's time to rebush the distributor.

A busted cam gear hub can cause timing variations too. But this is usually accompanied by general poor running; also sometimes by an ominous knock from the right front of the engine.
 
OK, let me add a little more, now that you all have sparked (no pun intended) some memories.

When I had the Distributor Cap off and was putting on the new rotor, I could pull the shaft that the rotor goes on out a bit, i would say 1/4 of an inch of play. When I put the rotor on, I could also rotate the shaft a bit., guessing the metal tip of the rotor rotated about 1/4 of an inch.

I was just thinking this was the way an old machine worked, now I guess I am wrong on that....

Tony
 
Remember i am not there checking it out and if it was here that dist. would be off the tractor and on the strobe then i would know if it was or was not the problem and a 50 dollar bushing yea wright it would be a three dollar bushing and ten min. on the lathe .
 
I agree with you, about taking the Distributor off. Unfortunately, I am usually in the field 42 miles away from my house. So it is usually an in the field operation. I think I might get her loaded up and bring her back home and start looking better.

I usually ask a lot of questions, cause I know I will have them once I am out there in the field. And I usually don't have a lot of answers for me.. :)

So I really appreciate all the responses about what to look for, and how to do it.

Thanks
Tony
 
that is ok, side movement is a bad thing. In and out
is normal, and the twist you feel is the advance
springs. They can be a tricky critter to get them
nailed downed sometimes. Check what vet and bob say
to do and myself then go from there.


Andrew
 
Tony - The 1/4" rotation movement is normal. More specifically you should be able to turn the rotor button about 15 deg CLOCKWISE against light spring pressure; it should then return when let go.

If it does not spring back the centrifugal advance mechanism beneath the breaker plate needs attention.

The in-out play you observe is pretty much normal.
 

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