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Farmall H specs

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Well,,, I'm at it again. Having trouble getting my H to run properly. New carb, new distributor plugs, wires, condenser and points. I ran better but started missing again after being left to idle a bit and noticed oil coming out around # 3 sparkplug hole. I removed the head and sent it out for new valves and guides, Entire combustion chamber is oil coated. Head checks out OK. I need torque specs. Valve gap information... I hope this works.
 
I would agree with you on it being a more serious problem. The pistons are tight and no slop, no ridge on the sleeve and no scouring in the cylinder walls. I was concerned about a broken ring. and am taking a chance with just doing the top end. But I did have a bad manifold. I now have a new one to replace it. The valves did show concave wear. That along with wore guides does give me reason to believe that this may be allowing oil into all cylinders.
 
(quoted from post at 23:07:12 07/03/12) I would agree with you on it being a more serious problem. The pistons are tight and no slop, no ridge on the sleeve and no scouring in the cylinder walls. I was concerned about a broken ring. and am taking a chance with just doing the top end. But I did have a bad manifold. I now have a new one to replace it. The valves did show concave wear. That along with wore guides does give me reason to believe that this may be allowing oil into all cylinders.
Click to expand...

if the engine isn't completely worn out...........
some rings could be stuck in their grooves
also, lots you can't see even if it looks good from the top.
had a Super H that was oiling cylinders badly when I got it.
changing the oil, I stuck my pinky in the drain hole
to see how bad the muck was.
felt lots of pieces...........
pulled the pan and #1 and #3 pistons had broken skirts.
easy fix with new pistons, but pulling it apart,
everything looked perfect from the top.
 
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