seating tire bead

WOpp · Jul 1, 2012

How do you guys get the tire bead to seat all the way around the rim? these are tube type tires , I have them lubed up well yet there is a forth of the rim where the tire could be out just a little farther. Hoe would a guyn get it out without getting his head blowed off? Thans

Janicholson · Jul 1, 2012

On solid (good) rims, putting 25% over pressure it them to seat the bead is OK. Factories use 75PSI for shipping cars to avoid flat spots.
Using a rubber mallet to strike outward at the reluctant spots also works well. If it has been partially seated for more than a couple of hours, I would break it back down and get it more even prior to inflation. Jim

uncle henry · Jul 1, 2012

the tube may be pinched by the bead in that area i have had a 38 inch tire do me that away couldn't see the tube but when i broke it back down found that's what was holding it from seating put a patch on it and tried again and it seated

rustred · Jul 1, 2012

i will also add , inflate without the valve stem core then once seated you install the core. this allows the air to go in faster and get a better seat. what are you lubing with? there is a thick goo that tire shops use for lube. looks just like grease. only time i have seen a problem seating tires is when no lube was used.

Nebraska Cowman · Jul 2, 2012

Were you drinking last night Warren? I assume you had the rim clean when you started? Rust is your enemy. Yeah, I, have had to use 50 -60 lbs air sometimes, but never more than that. And you better be darn sure it's started even. If one side is out too far you will get your head blown off. And I'd be darn careful if the rims are rusty at all. A weak rim will split without warning. I don't want to be hearing about you on the news.

WOpp · Jul 2, 2012

The rims are fresh powder coat paint perfectly clean, lots of tire shop goo as some call it on both tire and rim, yes I might have a beer tonight when this project is finished, you guy stop over a may have an extra one.

sflem849 · Jul 2, 2012

The tires usually say do not exceed XX lbs when seating the bead. At least on tubeless tires, not sure about rear tractor tires.

That last one I had that didn't set right I pumped up really hard and then drove it around on the pavement while turning sharp back and forth. It worked out.

Old-F20 · Jul 2, 2012

(quoted from post at 04:57:06 07/02/12) The rims are fresh powder coat paint perfectly clean, lots of tire shop goo as some call it on both tire and rim, yes I might have a beer tonight when this project is finished, you guy stop over a may have an extra one.

i would almost guess you could have a bit too much powdercoating on the rim. it doesnt take much powder to add a measureable thickness to the rim.

friend of mine owns a powdercoating business and seen it happen before. he said theres a few things out the that really shouldnt be powdercoated due to the thickness of it after its cooked

El Toro · Jul 2, 2012

You should use Dawn dish detergent on the tire beads. Hal

Nebraska Cowman · Jul 2, 2012

Usually 45 lbs. But I have cheated on that a little
in stubborn cases. Wide 28s & 30s are bad, narrow
38s usually fall on by themselves.

old · Jul 2, 2012

#1 NEVER use more then 30 PSI to seat a tire doing so is a good way to get dead and even most tires will have that right on them. #2 as you air it up be sure to keep the bead even all the way around the tire as you air it up. Plus lots of soap and water. BTDT many many times and did it as pro at the tire shops years ago. Be careful and keep you head back seen more then one guy loose there body parts to tires. Some times you have to air them up and let them go back down 2 or 3 times to get them to seat. There is also a stuff called Murphy's soap that work very well

dhermesc · Jul 2, 2012

I had that happen too. The problem was the tube was pinched on the side of the tire that had seated first - that extra little bit was enough to stop the opposite side from seating.

dhermesc · Jul 2, 2012

I had one old tire that flat refused to seat - and I went up to 60 pounds. Given the dry rot and overall lousy condition of the tire I was probably lucky it didn't let go on me.

Instead of fighting it I put it on the tractor that way with only 15 pounds of pressure. A couple hours of running around the farm with a mower and it seated on its own. The squatting and flexing of the sidewall of tire helped it work its way on.

Probably not the correct way but it did work. It it didn't go on then I was probably going to have to break it down again to and try to center it better.

sflem849 · Jul 2, 2012

(quoted from post at 06:43:04 07/02/12)

(quoted from post at 04:57:06 07/02/12) The rims are fresh powder coat paint perfectly clean, lots of tire shop goo as some call it on both tire and rim, yes I might have a beer tonight when this project is finished, you guy stop over a may have an extra one.

Click to expand...

i would almost guess you could have a bit too much powdercoating on the rim. it doesnt take much powder to add a measureable thickness to the rim.

friend of mine owns a powdercoating business and seen it happen before. he said theres a few things out the that really shouldnt be powdercoated due to the thickness of it after its cooked

Not many things should be powder coated if you ask me. :lol: I hate how it gets one little nick and then comes off in sheets. We could probably start a new thread on that...

dhermesc · Jul 2, 2012

You are seeing something I've never seen happen with a quality powder coat finish.

Jim Becker · Jul 2, 2012

(quoted from post at 11:40:19 07/02/12) it gets one little nick and then comes off in sheets.

ot properly cured. If he won't make good on it, find a different coater.

sgtbull · Jul 2, 2012

Baby powder.... best thing you can use. Coat the tube first, sprinkle liberally around inside and on the bead. It has no moisture, so doesn't cause any corrosion. It allows the tube to slide into place inside when you air it up and keeps it from sticking to the tire in the years to come. You'll be amazed how easily the tire beads up.... and, in the future, breaks down. I've been using it for nearly 20 yrs on tires, both tubless and tubed. (Tubeless MAY require a sealer if you have a pitted rim, however.) I've repaired tires that I put together years ago because of a thorn or nail, and they broke down easily. PLUS, it's way easier to clean up than that gooey stuff you brush or pour on.
I became a believer when fighting with a 4.00x19 tire for an 8n Ford... only way I could get the stupid thing to seat without overpressuring it.

sgtbull · Jul 2, 2012

as a sidenote... when the tires DO bead up, they simply slide into place... no big "POP" like with liquids or when done dry.

sflem849 · Jul 2, 2012

(quoted from post at 10:35:55 07/02/12)

(quoted from post at 11:40:19 07/02/12) it gets one little nick and then comes off in sheets.

Click to expand...

ot properly cured. If he won't make good on it, find a different coater.

It seems everything in the trailer industry has this problem. For work we run 3 cheap utility trailers and all three (different brands) have the "paint" falling off in chunks. White painted rims seem the have the problem all the time also.

WOpp · Jul 2, 2012

I had my tire man come by and broke the bead added more goo much more goo, He got it!!! Yea!! beer thirty. Thanks Guys WOpp

seating tire bead

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