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painting

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Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Guys, how bad did I screw up? If you don't add hardener to your paint, what happens? I started painting the wheel weights and smaller pieces today without hardener. Using Case/IH 2150. By the way, I'm a machinist, not a painter. Hope I didn't screw up to bad. Thanks for all replys. Scott
 
2150 does not need hardener, just takes longer to cure and delays repairs if needed. Urethane and 1 or 2 versions of DuPonts acrylic enamels MUST have hardener to cure (and are superior to 2150 for considerably more money). 2150 is a modified alkyd enamel and can be used with or without.
 
The enamel without hardener will just take longer to cure, urethane paints will not harden without the hardener.
 
You didn't!

I don't use hardener with IH2150 from the dealership. It does take a few days to harden, just plan accordingly. The up side is you can touch up scratches and dings later with ease. Paint with hardener and clear coat not so easy.

I use my tractors so am reluctant to spend big bucks on a paint job. I am starting the reconditioning process on a 54 stage 2 SH that I may have a high end paint job done on. This particular tractor will not work other that pulling a hay wagon,show and parades.
 
It can be done, but as far as I'm concerned if you are going to spend the money for good clear, then don't put it over cheap paint, use the base clear system.
 
The base clear system is actually easier, I switched from single stage urethane to base clear and am not going back, except that I do use single stage on small parts, mainly to save time, they blend in ok. Base clear on all sheet metal and the chassis, etc. The only disadvantage is the price, and the cost of a supplied air system to protect you from the hardener in the clear. The base does not use hardener.
 
I sprayed 2150 on my Cub's front blade and associated hardware without hardener or topcoat and years later it still looks new. It took about 2-3 days before it was hard enough to assemble but after that it was fine.
 
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