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cleaning out bad oil, Block Update

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BigTone

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i need to clean out the bad oil/water in the block. I was told to pour some gas into the oil fill and let it work its way into the pan and it will clean all the bad oil out, is that safe? I dont want a little gas that did not drain out get mixed with the oil and do damage to the engine in the case the block is not cracked...

Im not sure if there is a crack in the block, put boiling water in there last night, let it sit, check this morning and the level did drop less than a 1/4" and there was very little in the pan making me think that some of the water from the blow out is still in there, going to put the head back on and see what happens....
 
just remove the pan and clean it good, and the proper way. just pouring stuff through it does not remove the sludge. how can you check for a leak with the pan on? the leak may only be one drop in 5 minutes.you dont want the oil pump picking up loosened sludge.
 
Big Tone,

I would use diesel for the rinse out. Put it in the engine to normal oil level and turn it over with the starter with the spark plugs out for 1-2 minutes. Let it sit for 5 minutes and repeat. This lets the rinse flow back to the pan and the starter cool. Problem with gasoline is the fire danger is greater and washes more oi out/less lubrication. Don't think you would do damage with either gasoline or diesel. Either remove the oil filter before this rinsing and/or replace it afterwards with new. Then drain and fill with oil. Might want to change oil a little early the first time.
 
Drop the pan! Can almost guarantee you will find a layer of "gunk" on the bottom that will take a putty knife to scrape out. And while the pan's down also check/clean the oil pump pickup screen.

Before sticking the pan back on repeat your boiling water block leak check.
 
bad bad idea. hard on brgs. especially the rod brgs, as diesel or gas is a poor lubricant.at least have 1/3 of oil with that diesel. dont forget engine wear is on startup , when brgs are not under oil pressure ! so why would you be spinning the crank with no brg. lube? no one even thinks of that.
 
There is a big difference between turning the engine over with no plugs and therefor no significant side-load on the bearings and running it with the bearings being hammered each time a cylinder fires.

If it makes you feel better add a pint of oil to the diesel.
 
pour a quart of oil in the engine let drain out the drain plug ,any other methods of cleaning with any solvent ,will loosen all carbon,and other deposits inside the crank case ,and will pluging youre oil filter indefinetely any little bit of water in the oil will disapate in my experence and opinion .
 
thats what i am talking about, in a running engine the brg is not touching the crank. it is supported in a film of oil and cushtioned. cranking over even with no plugs the brg. is rubbing on the crank without lube. anyway i dont believe that just cranking does justice to the brgs when you have no life saving oil film on them. even the microscopic particules would just embed themself in the brg instead of wash past. i was also told in school that any oil is better than no oil.
 
exactly, thats what i am talking about. gas and deisel or solvent does not suspend particles.
 
Agreed.

Remove the pan, side inspection plate and valve cover if you think its bad. Flush it out and refill with a quality 10W30 oil.
 
Just pull the pan . I just rebuilt an "A" Farmall , incredible amount of dirt and sludge in there . you won't get even 10% of it out by pouring anything in and draining it .Parts brush , scraper, steel wool , that's the only way!!
 
thanks guys, i just pulled the pan and cleaned the crap out of the pan...checked for leaks in the block and did not see any water on cardboad.
 
Here's a pic of what I have used:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...681756&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
You hook it up to compressed air, put the rubber hose in either parts solvent or a suitable cleaning solvent & it picks it up & shoots it out under pressure, not high pressure, but enough to clean any block interior of sludge.

They are pricey, but invaluable when it comes to cleaning oil & sludge..

I am sure you could find one cheaper than Snap on, just wanted to show you what they look like.
 
I've seen this also done with as follows .. be it for better or worse and now open for criticism.

Start with a warm engine and bleed off a little from the bottom petcock and while still running at an idle pour in a quart of ATF (automatic transmission fluid) and then cut the engine.

Let is sit a short while, drain it and replace the filter.

Fill it back up with fresh oil and run it (not working it) till warm again, cut the engine, drain it and replace the filter again.

This second fill up would be the end result. This is not to include dropping the pan or cleaning the screen but keep a sharp eye on the pressure gauge to see what you have done.

Crude perhaps but this was a trick shown to me before petroleum prices become so outrageous as they are known today.
 
My Grandfather (I am 72) was a pro mechanic from 1907 (motorcycles) until he died in 1973. In his lifetime he bought and resurrected hundreds of motorcycles, cars, tractors and pickups.
The first item on the check sheet was "engine oil". The pan or bottom came off and was cleaned out. If there was sludge he did this.
With any old oil added, the motor was brought up to temperature. Then shut down and and 20 % capacity oil draine d off. Then he added kerosene (on all farms then) to full capacity,, and the engine idled for 10 minutes.
It was then drained whild still quite warm.
Fresh oil and filter. Start and run and check the oil and it looked like a factory fresh engine.
Nowadays, Gunk sells a quart of "engine cleaner" to add to your engine and run before changing oil. Same thing, it's nothing but diesel fuel.
ATF would probably work as well but you really are trying to get that sludge viscosity down.
 
Well, it all depends on how much sludge is inside the engine. A number of years ago I bought a 1939 Farmall H that we were able to make run so we could drive it onto the trailer. Maybe I should say that it barely ran. Anyway, once I got the tractor home I pulled the valve cover to set the valves in an attempt to improve the way is was running and I could not see where the valves were. The valve cover was that full of sludge. I then dropped the oil pan and you can guess what that looked like. Well, I could not hurt anything with the engine in that condition, so I pulled the tractor out the shop and got out the pressure washer and started washing the inside of the engine with hot water and a degreaser. I let the engine set and dry overnight and then put it back together and filled with 15w40 oil and started her up. The tractor engine ran better after a tuneup and I was able to check out the condition of the rest of the tractor before I pulled the entire tractor apart for a major overhaul. Sure was much easier working on a clean engine. I'm including a picture of what it looks like today.
a74804.jpg
 
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