Farmall B axle

I recently purchased a Farmall B, no serial # plate, #s under spark plug 1 correlate to 1944. The left rear wheel is right next to seat? No axle housing. Was this common? Could I replace or put in a normal left rear axle and axle housing?

I have seen various combinations of A's and B's

Sounds like somebody took the final drive off an A and put it on your B. No idea if that's a direct swap.

I think "Old" on this site who has done some A and B mixing of parts, if I'm not mistaken - he'll probably reply - but if not he'd be a good one to ask if you can track him down.

Do you have a Farmall A or a half A half B? Does it have a wide front? The Farmall A has a wide front while the B has a narrow front. If it has a wide front and hydraulics, it would be a Super A. It isn't too usual for someone to mix them up just for fun.
If you have half & half it would be quicker and easier to just replace the complete rear half.
Where are you located?

Its a narrow front, and appears in all other ways to be a farmall B, except left rear wheel. I'll try to post a photo. I'm in northwest IL.

Is the differential shaft housing under the seat 18" long or 22" long?

You may have a B that somebody took the left side Differential Shaft off of, or you may have an A that somebody put a B sticker on.

Does it have a wide or narrow front end on it?

Measure the right axle housing. If it's 18", it's an A rear end.
The axle housings on a B are 22", the BN 18". If you have an A rear end and replaced the left axle with an 18" from a BN, you would have a madeup Farmall BN.

The motor number under number 1 plug is not a plate but a stamped number in a flat almost behind the throttle rod. It should be the same as the serial number for the tractor unless the engine has been swapped out. There are other ways to find out but you need that number to determine if you had an A, B, or BN. The axel lengths are not the same for a B and a BN (B narrow). The serial number should be on the order of FAA **** for an A or FAB **** for a B or FABN **** for a BN.

Yes the rear axel can be directly swapped out and you should. If the unit was originally a B or BN the right cast wheel center was not over sized for weight to resist overturning. Also the narrow front is very dangerous to operate with the left rear wheel in the "A" position. I have done the very thing you face. Have a new break band for that side as well as a oil seal for the transmission. Be careful how you remove the oil seal. I suggest that you consider using a self taping screw or screws to tap the metal flat on the old seal then you can pri it out with a crow bar.

I would not remove the bolts holding the final drive on the tractor using an impact wrench. I did that and ended up with a broken bolt. Do use a pull handle.

The right axle housing is 22 inches. The left does not have an axle housing. I"ll try to upload some pics.

I did that to my B years ago that has L306 Woods mower on, now mower can get close on either side.

IVE done a couple that way for the Woods mowers the 59 and the 306 they work well as it all depends on your terrain. If you need the diff shaft and housing i do have some for sale.

You dont use the final drive from an A just remove the diff shaft and replace with a diff shaft from an A cause the finals are the same with an exception there is a right and left final. If you take a final from the right side and go to the left side you wont have any place for the brake rod.

Yep built a BA last fall or was it the fall before LOL. I have a lot of A and B parts laying around still

Sounds like you have a BN or you have a mutt like my BA which is B from the transmission forward and an A from the transmission back. By the way I still have a lot of B parts on hand including the axle housing etc that you need.

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Odd looking aftermarket seat or some sort of seat that a person rigged to fit. Looks like it could be a BN or one like I built from parts tractor I have around

It had a woods mower on it, thats probably why it was shortened.