A front trans seal

blunted · Jun 18, 2012

can you just take the front bolts out and pull the rear end and drive shaft from the bell housing apart? thanks.. and change the seal?

old · Jun 18, 2012

You can but it can be a real pain the get the shaft to line back up to the clutch if you take it apart only at the transmission

blunted · Jun 18, 2012

so what would be the easyest? thanks

old · Jun 18, 2012

The way I do it is take it apart to the engine and then pull the torque tube. Plus that way you can check the throw out bearing and also clean out the crap that will be in the torque tube

theredshed · Jun 18, 2012

split it at the engine clutch housing then split it from the rear od the bell housing

blunted · Jun 18, 2012

i should have done it when i rebuilt and did all the cleaning and new paint. but now it leaks the rear fluid. thanks. would i still not want to try at the tourq tube and trans? thanks with know a headake mite acure?

old · Jun 18, 2012

The big problem with just pulling it at the transmission is the drive shaft sits on a flex plate sort of thing and opening it up is easy but getting that shaft back into the clutch disk can be one of those next to impossible things to do

blunted · Jun 18, 2012

thanks everyone. just keep adding oil..

gene bender · Jun 18, 2012

You will need to unbolt the two pedals fastened to the floor plate as they ware fastened to the bellhousing. There is a u-joint in front of the tranny thats easy to unbolt as you seperate the bellhousing for the tranny. Easy to fasten together when going back together ive done that repair several times and also put a new bearing which is rite behind the seal. I do have stands that are on wheels sure makes the job easier.

gene bender · Jun 18, 2012

No problem getting shaft together as you dont even remove it completely from the clutch assy even if you did putting it back is easy.

old · Jun 18, 2012

One thing that will help a little bit is if you switch the the newer 85W-140 oil it will stay in there a day or 2 longer and leak slower due to being a little thicker

old · Jun 18, 2012

Guess I do not know the trick or I held my mouth wrong because I did not find it to be easy to do

blunted · Jun 18, 2012

thanks

blunted · Jun 18, 2012

where you at with your stands?

Dennis K (WA) · Jun 18, 2012

Blunted, I just did what you are wanting to do, to my 'C'. and it worked out ok. I have an overhead crane which supported the front half and I blocked the rear. Rolled the front away just far enough to separate the shaft from transmission and then move the front out of the way. Replace what you are going to replace and roll it back as close as you can, reassemble the joint and move it together. The sleeve/tube that supports the throwout bearing will support the front of the shaft and your clutch plate will already be inline. You could also file a slight chamfer on the shaft splines to help with engagement of the shaft. I used long line up bolts when I rolled it back together.
good luck
Dennis

cheif · Jun 18, 2012

I had good advice when I did mine. Split it the trans but only open it a couple inches while you decouple the joint you will see there. Just be careful you don't pull the drive shaft back too far then no trouble with the clutch connection.

teddy52food · Jun 18, 2012

As long as you don't release the clutch, it should go back ok. Put the PTO in gear and turn the shaft to get the splines lined up.

old · Jun 18, 2012

The problem is that the shaft can drop and fall out of the throw out bearing and then you have the fun of getting it into place BTDT

Jim Becker · Jun 18, 2012

(quoted from post at 23:28:43 06/18/12) The problem is that the shaft can drop and fall out of the throw out bearing and then you have the fun of getting it into place BTDT

Only if you don't follow the instructions posted here by three different people.

A front trans seal

blunted

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old

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blunted

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theredshed

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blunted

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blunted

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gene bender

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