Steering Gear Housing on a Farmall Super A

The Steering Gear Housing on my 1949 Super A leaks like a Sieve. Rather than take the time and effort to correct the problem,the previous owner just put in heavy grease and this still leaks out on garage floor.

I removed the front end with the Gear Housing mounted to the Axle and I cannot seperate the Top portion of the Gear Housing from the Base.

I removed the Bolts under the Base Housing, but could not get to the Center Arm with a Wrench to disconnect it. I have an IH-8 Shop Manual, but no help there.

I"m beginning to think, perhaps the previous owner was a lot smarter than I gave him credit for.

I would appreciate any advice or help in this matter.


Thx

John Quillen

P.S. Any tips on removing and installing Oil Seals?

Can't help you with how to do this job, though I'll be interested to see the replies you get, so I can do the same to my Farmall A when I finally manage to collect it. As to putting heavy grease in the steering box, I cannot recommend it. It has been done on many Farmall tractors, including both my Farmall Ms. The grease does not lubricate the steering gears properly and abnormally rapid wear results. I rebuilt the steering box on my Farmall M and used SAE 85-130 gear oil.
SadFarmall

Getting the arm off can be tough but it does need to be removed so the two halves can then be seperated. There are two seals one on the steering shaft and the other on the output shaft. There is also two bushings and a bearing. During the process make sure the grease in the spindles gets to the bottom where the flange rides. I would also replace the bolt holding the steering arm so you have a good surface for your wrench to fit as over the yrs some poor work was done and the head and nut are rounded. I fill with 90wt so the worm and gear get the lube they need. I have done several its quite a job but good steering when done.

A little confused here - is the steering housing still attached to the axle?

If so, it's 100x's easier to remove the axle first.

You need to pop out the 1" pivot pin and the axle comes right off.

There are two bolts that tighten to clamp against that pin - but it's very important you remove them completely before trying to drive the pin out - the pin itself is notched out to allow each of those bolts to hold the pin in place even if they come loose.

Once those two bolts are out - use a large center punch to punch the pin out - you don't need a press or anything fancy - BUT - be SURE to use a pointy object - and NOT something like a socket or other flat object to pound it out.

The metal is very soft and ductile - unless it's super loose to begin with, it WILL mushroom out in place and make for such a tight fit that it'll never come all the way out.

I've done this a couple times - and learned that lesson that hard way.

Using a center punch right in the middle keeps the deformation localalized around the punch - and the whole pin should come out with a good amount of pounding.

Once the pin's out it's obvious that the axle comes right off - then the steering arm is right there.

Now would be a good time to change all the seals and bearings while you're in there. There are kids for under $100 with everything you need.

My steering hub fell apart one day. Unknown me the previous owner had brazed the parts together and did some fancy body work. After bring it home in a sling I was face with the same problem. I started seaching around and found a tractor recycler 2 hours away. He sold me the whole piece, hub gears shaft in one piece for 50 bucks. It is alot easier then fighting it.

Yes, the Housing was attached to the Axle. After following your instruction I was able to remove the Steering Housing without any problems whatsoever. Now I'll have to find a source for the Kit you mentioned.

Just thinking about putting this back together!! Would I bolt the Housing on to the Tractor first and hook the Center Arm and Axle last!

Thank you so much for all your Expert Advice.

John

Thanks for your Help.

John

Thanks for your Help!

John

Great - It's actually all very easy simple you do it - just kind of awkward to handle all the heavy parts wanting to twist one way or another.

Are the wheels still attached?

I've always done it with wheels attached - so when I reinstall it - I just stand it up on the wheels and roll it back into place. Then it's fairly easy to insert the four bolts to hold it all on.

CAN be done alone, but an assitant certainly makes life a whole lot easier and safer - just be real careful about pinched fingers in those tie rods.

One last note - when you put those four bolts back in to hold the front end on - one goes into a threaded hole - but the other three can go in either direction - on the generator side, right near the generator - must be put in from the rearward direction - with the nut on the front side. Otherwise it interferes with the mounting of the generator (on mine anyways).

This site may have that rebuild kit - I know steiner tractor does.

I would just like to say, that you and the people on this site are the greatest.

Thanks again

John Quillen

Just giving back what I've received.

Good luck.

And while we're at it - if you DO decide to go with the kit (which can help clean up slop in the steering) Most of the stuff is pretty straight forward - really only one way it can come out and go in.

However, the old brass bushings can be REAL tough to remove. The best way I found to get them out was to take a hacksaw blade - insert it through the hole and cut the bushing lengthwise all the way through - you can nick the cast iron without causing a problem, but obviously keep it to a minimum.

It's best to make two opposing cuts - then the remaining bushing halves will knock right out with a chisel.

Your oil seal on the top of the steering box where the steering shaft goes through is probably a double thickness leather seal. The new one will be half the thickness, don't let it concern you - try to seat it flush with the top of the hole - you'll see what I mean when you get it.