IH 300U Clutch Adjustment

Hey all. Hoping for some help on adjusting the
clutch on my IH 300U. At least I hope that"s the
problem. When the tractor is sitting there idling
and I go to put it into gear, it always grinds. It
works OK when I"m using the tractor and going
forward then reverse and whatever, but when I try
to put it into gear from a stand still it always
grinds. Yesterday I adjusted the clutch per the
shop manual, but it didn"t seem to help. Am I
missing something? Any ideas on what else I can
try to save my gears? Thanks.

There are no syncros in the trans. The gears are slid along splines to mate with other gears. When the clutch is pushed in from neutral(engine running) the main clutch disk and TA housing as well as the input gears are all spinning at engine speed.
The gears are running in Hytran oil (pretty thin and low in viscosity) It can take as much as 15 seconds to slow these to the point that the gears will mesh with little clashing. If the clutch is dragging the Flywheel or Pressure Plate when the pedal is pushed in all the way, or the pilot bearing is dry and dragging, the disk will begin to spin on its own, causing the gears to grind.
The test is to carefully start the tractor with the clutch down, while in gear (first is fine) (remember it must be remembered that the tractor could move if the clutch was let up) then put it in neutral with the clutch remaining down for the whole test. Now try to put it in gear. If it goes in easily with very little or no grinding, I think it is normal. If however, it grinds as badly as you describe, the clutch is dragging or the pilot is binding where the clutch shaft spins in the back of the crank. Jim

Does your 300 have a T/A ?

Try starting it with the clutch pedal down and that problem will go away just like Jim said it is a matter of oil and gears moving so it takes time for stuff to stop moving so the gears grind till things stop moving

Hytran is equivalent to 10 weight, you can get compatible hyd oils that are 20 weight, I believe one is 303 bought at Orscheln, etc, Tractor Supply also has one. I posted a similar question a year or so ago, most people said it wouldn't work, but it helped my 460U, not as much as I would like, but better. The gear clash is why there are transmission brakes on later models. Mine usually shifts ok if I don't let the clutch out between shifts. If I do, I idle the engine and wait 10-15 seconds with the clutch in.

Sorry, I should have mentioned that I do not have a T/A. I will try the test the Jim mentions and post back. Thanks for the help...

OK, so I went out and put it in 1st gear, pushed in the clutch and started it. Keeping the clutch in (never moving) I can shift into neutral or any other gear w/ no grinding. If I put it in neutral and wait a few seconds, then push in the clutch and try to put it in gear, then I get the grinding. If I'm in neutral and I hold the clutch in for a long time (~30 seconds) then I can shift into any gear w/ no grinding. Is this normal or is there something I can adjust??? Thanks.

Your tractor is very normal. the TA is heavy and spins with the clutch shaft. Just consider that first pause to allow it to slow as the nature of the beast. Truthfully farmers wait about 15 seconds and rake it into gear with some grinding. They are robust transmissions. Always start in 5th TA then shift to direct for road use. Fifth gear is much less tough. it is made with splines coupling to splines, and is beaten when shifted from 4th to fifth on the fly. Jim

you have no problems, all very normal, just idle way down before shifting to aviod grinding and if your idle is set too high adjust it lower and it will help you get it into gear without the grinds faster...