should i re sleeve my farmall M?

rbooe05

Member
Hey all, want to start by saying thanks for all of you that have helped me out so far trying to figure out my new farmall M. Now i have all the bugs worked out, i noticed my plugs were covered in oil when i pulled them out so i put my hand over the oil fill and i had a vaccum and then pressure so i think im getting a LOT of blowby so i figured since i hada tick in the top end anyway i was gunna pull the head off. Well after looking at things, it looks like the pistons and sleeves look fine so could i have stuck rings in a couple cylinders? How do i know weather to replace the sleeves or just the rings? Thanks!
 
You check the sleeves for taper and out of round and that is how you determine if they are junk or still good. New rings can't hurt, but don't do much good in bad sleeves.
 
Since u have a tick in the top it could be a valve sticking that is causing your blow back. I think that those might not have hardened valve seats (may need a lead supplement added to the gas). My uncle had this problem with his 404 until we started adding supplement.
 
If you can wiggle the pistons, the rings are shot. I would budget new rings, sleeves, rod and crank bearings. Take the head to a good NAPA machine shop. They can replace the valves, seats, guides, flux and shave it to square it for around $300 would be my guess. I did it with an H head for $225 back in 1999. They did an outstanding job! Inspect the pistons. You might have to replace them if you see any scoring. I had NAPA also mount new pistons on the rods along with installing the rings.
 
It depends some on what you intend to use the tractor for. If you are just going to play with it I would check the sleeves for taper and out of round. If they are close I would put a set of rings in it and take the head to a qualified shop and have it gone thru which means checking for cracks and grinding or replacing valves and seats. If your rod and main bearings aren't grooved or scored and you have decent oil pressure I would throw a set of rings in it and not worry about pulling the crank. That old girl will run that way a long time and run quite well at that. If you are going to work the snot out of it or use it for tractor pulling well then you should probably go the full route. I've taken many an M and H apart and did the head and valves and put rings in and they ran really well and are still running. I guess it depends how much money you want to spend.
 
Giudes are not hardened, seats are, or can be) hardened. Seat inserts or ceramic, or stellite (an Iron Nickel Cobalt alloy + other things) to make the seat hard and heat resistant.
The sleeve taper from most worn (at top ring stopping point) to least worn (Bottom of sleeve)can be accepted if less than .004". Ridge ream the top, and hone to allow the rings to seat. If more than that, new sleeves/pistons are a best practices tactic. Jim
 
Thanks for all the info! Tommarow im going to take apart the head and drop the pan and check everything out. I will only use the tractor to mow a couple acres and plow the garden twice a year so im gunna measure the cylinders tommarow and see if they are useable
 
if it don't smoke ,knock, skip and has good oil pressure try a range hotter plug that should take care of the oil build up,as for the ticking it's most likely valve rocker arm noise
 
Most problems solved with lead substitute are in the head of the
sucker who coughs up good money for "overhaul in a can"
 
Do a compression check to determine what is wrong, warm up tractor, take readies, then squirt oil in cylinders and check compression again, if it increases you need to overhaul, if it doesn"t increase, get the head checked. Brent
 
Use your fingernails on top of the sleeves and see how much ridge you have. You probably need to use a ridge reamer if you're planning on using the pistons. You may be able to use a glaze breaker on the sleeves and install a new set of rings. You need to check your bearings for wear. Hal
 
(quoted from post at 08:59:24 06/14/12) Use your fingernails on top of the sleeves and see how much ridge you have. You probably need to use a ridge reamer if you're planning on using the pistons. You may be able to use a glaze breaker on the sleeves and install a new set of rings. You need to check your bearings for wear. Hal

AutoZone (and other auto parts stores) will loan you a ridge reamer for free. Just a handy tip to save some money.
 
Well i got out my vernier caliper today and measured the cylinders as far down as i could, The pistons are stamped with a 4 and have number Cam H-8 357791-R1 and looks like they are in good shape. I think they are the 4 inch piston? The cylinders are all pretty close all the way around. Farthest one off was .003 out of round. but all measure right around 3.980. The pistons do have some wiggle in them all the way down the cylinder. None of the valves are stuck on the top end but have a TON of carbon buildup so im going to take those apart and clean them really good. As for the bottum end, i didnt have any play in the lower bearings at all. Everything looks to be in great shape other than the rings and head. So should i just use a ridge reamer and hone the cylinder with a fresh set of rings? Thanks!
 
(quoted from post at 09:11:00 06/14/12) Well i got out my vernier caliper today and measured the cylinders as far down as i could, The pistons are stamped with a 4 and have number Cam H-8 357791-R1 and looks like they are in good shape. I think they are the 4 inch piston? The cylinders are all pretty close all the way around. Farthest one off was .003 out of round. but all measure right around 3.980. The pistons do have some wiggle in them all the way down the cylinder. None of the valves are stuck on the top end but have a TON of carbon buildup so im going to take those apart and clean them really good. As for the bottum end, i didnt have any play in the lower bearings at all. Everything looks to be in great shape other than the rings and head. So should i just use a ridge reamer and hone the cylinder with a fresh set of rings? Thanks!

Acceptable play on mains is. 003" I don't think you will ever feel that with your hand.

Everything else sounds good enough to go with.
 
If your bearings don"t show any visual signs of abnormal wear and you have good oil pressure I wouldn"t worry too much about measuring or replacing your bearings. If you are in doubt plasti-gauge them and see where you are at.
 
Well after i inspected everything i can feel the sleeves are pretty warn half way down and i think i have a mis matched piston so i went ahead and ordered stepped head pistons and sleeves so maybe they will give me a little more power over the flat topped ones. Also ordered new valves and springs and valve guides. I figure im gunna have the ttactor a long time so i might as well do it right!
 
(quoted from post at 03:19:36 06/15/12) Well after i inspected everything i can feel the sleeves are pretty warn half way down and i think i have a mis matched piston so i went ahead and ordered stepped head pistons and sleeves so maybe they will give me a little more power over the flat topped ones. Also ordered new valves and springs and valve guides. I figure im gunna have the ttactor a long time so i might as well do it right!

I have thought that way before.
 

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