Grandpa's H Has Spark Now, but Tank is Full of Crud

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dstates

Member
Well, I went ahead and replaced the plug wires, distrubutor cap, rotor, points and condensor and now I have spark!!!!

So then I turned the fuel back on and got nothing at the carb. A little investigating found that the inlet of the sediment bowl was clogged. The tank has a layer of crud at the bottom and it just drains right into the bowl. Some pieces of rust look to be the size of a nickel.

So I think I've got 3 options:

1. Remove the tank and have it cleaned and sealed before I go any further.
2. Do #1 and rig up a small temporary tank so I can still get it started.
3. Add a "snorkel" to the sediment bowl inlet so I draws gas from above the layer of crud until I'm ready to tackle the tank.

If I can come up with an easy way to do #3 I'll probably go that way, but #2 is probably the best answer.

Any thoughts???
 
Go with #1 AND #2. This way you can get your H running without getting additional "junk" into the carburetor.

I use a 2 gallon plastic tank salvaged from an old lawn tractor, a short piece of fuel hose and a shutoff valve. It's a great temporary fuel supply when working on a tractor with rusty/dirty fuel tank. It's also handy when you need to move a tractor with the sheet metal and fuel tank removed.
 
I had a lot of rust in my A tank. I tried a magnet and it got out
a lot but not all. I removed the shutoff valve and the stand
pipe was gone. Filed a ring around the top of the valve and
took some aluminum screening and with a small piece of
copper wire secured it to the top of the valve. haven't had a
problem since.
 
Find a motorcycle or radiator shop to clean the tank. Job best left to the pros. Don't use any sealer when you get it clean.
Don't know where you are but I have a nice clean tank, no dents, epoxy primed.
 
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Try this. Easy to do and it works.
 
I'm having the same problem with my 350. I made a drop leg out of a 3/8" pipe tee, a short nipple, and a cap. The sediment bowl goes on a street ell that is screwed into the T part of the T.

Greg
 
I got my temporary solution figured out. I had drained the tank yesterday and was able to just brush out 95% of the rust and sediment in the tank (the section I could get to anyway) and then I took my shop vac and sucked on the outlet of the tank while I blew compressed air into the tank. That did amazing things. Then I flushed a quart or so through the tank a couple times. I ended up with a fairly clean tank for now. I know I'll have to do more later, but it worked.

By the way, I got it started today!!!!! I couldn't keep it running without being busy with the choke so I have more questions. I'll start another topic later tonight when I have time. Thanks for all of the help!!

By the way, I like the picture of the screen at the sediment bowl inlet. That is the sort of "snorkel" I was thinking of earlier.
 
On my Farmall H is removed the tank (not a difficult job) washed it out with a bit of petrol to get out the worst of the loose junk. Then get a good handful of ball bearings or hardened shot. Then shake the tank. The method I saw on the forum recently of attaching the tank to the outside of a rear wheel of a Farmall works well (just don't hit anything with the tank). Then re-wash the tank with fuel. Refit tank. Refill tank. Drive tractor. It is a bit of work, but not very hard work and it is a long term solution.
SadFarmall
 
I don't know what was used when the tank was flushed, then sucked out with a shop vac, but I'd never even think of trying that Anything sucked into a shop vac gets exhausted thru the blower motor which usually is making all kinds of sparks at the commutator. They make a pretty big blow torch when they ignite. Don't do it.
 
I did think of that. You are right that it might not have been the brightest idea I've ever had, but I felt the fumes were at a minimum at the point I tried it as I had been "purging" it with compressed air for a while.

I'm not arguing that anyone should repeat what I did. You are right that gasoline fumes are nothing to mess with.
 

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