Farmall BN, have a ton of Questions

I have an old Farmall BN tractor that I've been slowly going thru and I have a bunch of questions. I don't really know a whole lot about tractors so let me apologize in advance for the bombardment of questions.

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First off, are there any online manuals available for this machine?

What carb is the correct carb for this tractor? I'm told that the carb that's currently on it is too small for the tractor to really run right. Either way it needs work, as soon as the shutoff valve is opened and fuel hits the carb it leaks gas BADLY.

Bird's nest is now gone but the current carb is visible in the photo:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b360/spf150/052911005.jpg

What carb is that? Also, where can I find a new replacement for the screen at the top of the glass fuel bowl under the fuel tank?

At one point in the past the starter was jump started off of a 12V battery to get the engine to spin over. Could this have damaged out the magneto?

For the PTO, what rpm is it? Is there a list of implements that are compatible with this tractor? The tractor does have a hydraulic system, currently set up to work a plow on the front. Can I upgrade to a 3 pt hitch or is that way too much for this tractor?

Last but not least I went thru the gearbox last year and found a TON of water inside. I drained it all out, sprayed everything down with PB Blaster and WD40 then refilled the gearbox to capacity only to find out that it's leaking oil at the wheels as well as where the axle tubes connect to the trans body. What is the best way to change these out? I'm guessing that I'll be taking most of the tractor apart. Any tips for doing this or other stuff to look for while I'm in there? Are the gaskets available or will I need to make my own?

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b360/spf150/04292011007.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b360/spf150/04292011008.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b360/spf150/052911003.jpg

Thanks for the help!

There were several carbs that were correct for B Farmalls (the N means Narrow rear tread by about 8 inches or so)
I do not believe I have seen that carb on a B (but could be wrong)
Rusty Farmall Who frequents here probably has a rebuilt carb.

CaseIH will have the screen, as will many others Bates equipment in Indiana will for sure.

Jumping from 12 volts cannot hurt a magneto. The mag is separate and totally unrelated to the starting and charging system. It generates its own electricity, and is grounded to stop.

The gear oil is set at a level plug on the left side. Over filling it will pretty much cause it to run out. Seals are available for all components, the bearings and internal seals are pretty standard, or substitutable with modern components.

Tbest tips are take pictures every time you frown at a component. (often) and second is it all comes apart, it isnt made to throw away. Jim

First off, are there any online manuals available for this machine?

I don't know of any online manuals, but there are several places online that you can order manuals for it. I recommend the service manual and the parts manual.

What carb is the correct carb for this tractor? I'm told that the carb that's currently on it is too small for the tractor to really run right. Either way it needs work, as soon as the shutoff valve is opened and fuel hits the carb it leaks gas BADLY.

If gas runs out of the carburetor when you turn on the gas, your needle valve is open. Either the valve is bad, or the float is maladjusted, or the float isn't floating.

where can I find a new replacement for the screen at the top of the glass fuel bowl under the fuel tank?

I have made them out of very fine brass screen, I don't know if you can buy a screen separately, I do know that new fuel bowls are available and they come with a new screen.

At one point in the past the starter was jump started off of a 12V battery to get the engine to spin over. Could this have damaged out the magneto?

The starter and magneto have no connection to each other. 12 volts is not likely to have damaged the starter, and unless somebody really screwed up badly, it didn't hurt the magneto either. The magneto does not connect to the tractor's electrical system.

For the PTO, what rpm is it?

About 540 RPM at wide open throttle

The tractor does have a hydraulic system, currently set up to work a plow on the front.

If it is a BN, it does not have a factory hydraulic system. Hard to say what you have on your tractor.

Can I upgrade to a 3 pt hitch or is that way too much for this tractor?

I have never seen a 3 point hitch on a BN. But with time, materials, a welder and ingenuity, anything is possible.

Last but not least I went thru the gearbox last year and found a TON of water inside. I drained it all out, sprayed everything down with PB Blaster and WD40 then refilled the gearbox to capacity only to find out that it's leaking oil at the wheels as well as where the axle tubes connect to the trans body. What is the best way to change these out?

The leaks where the differential shafts connect to the differential are most likely due to overfilling of the transmission.

Are the gaskets available or will I need to make my own?

Nearly any part or gasket you may need is available from either Case/IH or an aftermarket supplier. There are also a lot of used parts available. Gaskets should be no problem at all.

As far as the transmission is concerned you do not fill to capacity but to the fill plug on the left side near the front of the case. Remove that plug and allow the oil to fall to that level. The seals are not designed to withstand constant pressure. Overfilling the case will cause excessive leaking.

A suggestion on protocol. You should limit your questions to one. Make additional post for other questions. Different people have different areas of specialty and will respond. Photos can be uploaded directly to the forum using the Upload Photo link at the bottom of your posting page.

I have two BNs how do you mount a "too small" carb the flange needs to match or it just wont match. You have had some real bad advice. Get an owners manual from the dealer. Then get the I@T manual for that model. No hy system on that tractor so no three pt. If you think you need three pt get another tractor that has one factory not an add-on. The screen can be had at local NAPA IF they have any tractor parts. Your carb should not leak. In the future get your advice from someone who has an A or B as the BN is very simular just a narrower rear than the B by 8 in.

Looks to me like the air intake for the carb is BIGGER than the outlet from the air cleaner, not smaller. Looks like a Zenith with no lever on the outside of the choke shaft, probably newer than the tractor.

Parts coverage is availiable on line at 'caseih.com'
Go to search for parts, for model use farmall b and you'll have the parts catalog.
Dennis

Thanks for the help guys! I'll check the fill plug level on the side, guess it makes sense that it is way over filled.

I'll take some photos of the hydraulic system and get them posted. There is a belt driven pump on the front left of the engine and a reservoir tank under the fuel tank.

The carb is a Zenith but I did not see any model or part #'s on it. I'll have to get some better photos. The throttle linkage is interesting as it goes down the right side of the tractor, crosses in front of the engine then goes down the left side of the motor to the carb. Is this normal?

As for the PTO, the only thing I'd really like to run would be a brush hog. Are there any that are compatible with this tractor or is that too much implement for this machine?

(quoted from post at 09:15:57 06/04/12) The carb is a Zenith but I did not see any model or part #'s on it.

The throttle linkage is interesting as it goes down the right side of the tractor, crosses in front of the engine then goes down the left side of the motor to the carb. Is this normal?

As for the PTO, the only thing I'd really like to run would be a brush hog. Are there any that are compatible with this tractor or is that too much implement for this machine?

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Zenith numbers are frequently on a round tag riveted to the top.

Linkage from the speed control lever runs forward on right side to the governor. Linkage from the governor comes back on the left to the carburetor.

A bush hog will work fine with that tractor. Five foot cut is usual, six might be OK depending on how heavy the grass is. Beware that a mower with a heavy blade/spindle assembly can drive the tractor forward for a considerable distance with the tractor clutch disengaged. Some mowers have a built-in overrunning clutch to prevent this. Many people recommend adding an overrunning clutch to the PTO if the mower does not have one.

The governor is on the right front of the engine. The throttle control handle at the steering quadrant is a push pull effect on the governor spring. The control of the governor then leaves through the cross shaft and moves the throttle plate as needed.
It is a fine tractor for a 5 foot Bush Hog.
Use a PTO overrunning clutch so it will not push the tractor into fences and buildings. (this happens due to the flywheel effect continuing to drive the wheels on a non live PTO system. Jim

I see you have a B N would you be interested in the cultivators /
scufflers I have for mine. I no longer use them and would gladly sell
them to you. I have a connection in Michigan We some times go see
I live in Ontario near London.
Wm.

That's good to hear about the brush hog! I will be keeping my eyes peeled for an over running clutch.

I'll take a look for the drain plug on the transmission. Also got some good photos of the carb but the forum will not let me embed them because I don't have enough posts. Any way around this?

(quoted from post at 14:19:58 06/05/12) I see you have a B N would you be interested in the cultivators /
scufflers I have for mine. I no longer use them and would gladly sell
them to you. I have a connection in Michigan We some times go see
I live in Ontario near London.
Wm.

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If I was closer I'd gladly take you up on the offer, maybe sometime down the road if you still have them.

Also got some good photos of the carb but the forum will not let me embed them because I don't have enough posts. Any way around this?

Click to expand...

I don't think the post requirement is very high. Maybe 5 or 10. Just make a few more posts and try again.

(quoted from post at 05:46:29 06/06/12)

Also got some good photos of the carb but the forum will not let me embed them because I don't have enough posts. Any way around this?

Click to expand...

I don't think the post requirement is very high. Maybe 5 or 10. Just make a few more posts and try again.

Click to expand...

Will do

Let's see if this works






What is this? The switch has 4 positions but none are labeled

I have put them away ; in safe dry and out of the weather. I won't be
using them on mine since I don't live on the farm now.
You were asking about books for the BN >> Check with the IHC
Museum In Wisconsin they may be able to make you a copy of an
original owners manuel, and any other equipment manuals that
they have [[ might offer to give them a small fee as an incentive.]]

Ihc case will have all the necessary seals except for the seal that is
on the front tricycle post The complete bearing and seal set up for
the Diff/Tran is $460+/- Canadian the bull gear bearings and
seals will run about $3-400 [ I know the large bearing in the bull
gear housing is $75.00 Canadian by it's self. the small is $25.00
and the seals are about $10.00 or less Just finished pricing for my
restoration
Wm. by the way what is your email you my send it to me privetly
[email protected]