Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Serial tag no. and engine no. don't match. In fact, there's about 100,000 difference.Is this common? Also are Autolite 388's OK for an H? It came with those and they look fine. Thanks for answers.
- Thread starter Anonymous-0
- Start date
Zachary Hoyt
Well-known Member
Originally the numbers would have matched, likely either the block or the center housing could have been replaced. See what the cast code letter is on several castings and that should give a better idea of the year, or of which serial number is right.
Zach
Zach
Rich'sToys
Well-known Member
- Location
- Southern MN
As Zach mentioned, something was more than likely replaced over the years. After all, some of these things these things are 70+ years old!
As to whether it matters--I guess it depends on how much you are into "correctness". If it was mine, and the tractor ran good, I wouldn't worry about it.
As to whether it matters--I guess it depends on how much you are into "correctness". If it was mine, and the tractor ran good, I wouldn't worry about it.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Thanks for reply. No, it doesn't matter to me that numbers don't match. Does matter how it runs. I haven't started it yet, but will do so soon.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Thanks for reply. will check casting numbers, as you suggested.
George Rausch
Member
The advice I got for my 1950 H was to use 388's, run premium gas, gap the plugs at 0.030" to 0.035", use Seafoam, and pull her hard every so often,
Seems to work just fine.
Seems to work just fine.
CoopertownBob
Member
The serial number issue has been well covered, but not the plugs.
The 388 is too hot a plug to use in the H, even for modified engine pullers. They take away torque from the little engine, same as with Champion D-21's. BTW, the 388 is equivalent to the Champion D-23 in heat range. Use the 3116, gaped at .025 or even .030-.035 if your coil with fire them and run regular pump gas in it. Don't waste your money on additives or high test gas. These engines don't make anywhere near enough compression to need it, even with the initial timing advanced 40 degrees and fire-crater pistons installed. Or, if you dislike Autolite, use the Champion D15Y or D18Y. Champions are original to Farmalls. I wouldn't bother changing the 388's out though until they needed it, unless you know of a Popper around that needs plugs. Those old Johnnie-Poppers need the highest heat range plug they can get to help avoid fouling.
BTW Bruce, what are the serial numbers on each?
The serial number issue may have been covered, but I'm pretty sure the information is inaccurate.
The only time the chassis serial number and engine serial number matched is early on in production, if then. Like maybe 1939 through 1940 or so.
These engines were used in H's, W4's, and power units IIRC. Some were held back as replacement parts. Engines had a different serial number sequence from the tractors.
100,000 off probably means it's a replacement engine, but the point here is the serial numbers probably will NOT match.
The only time the chassis serial number and engine serial number matched is early on in production, if then. Like maybe 1939 through 1940 or so.
These engines were used in H's, W4's, and power units IIRC. Some were held back as replacement parts. Engines had a different serial number sequence from the tractors.
100,000 off probably means it's a replacement engine, but the point here is the serial numbers probably will NOT match.
Maybe can't read this or be hard to. Memo at farmall works and from the international harvester records.
In IH parts books when the engine and chassis numbers don't match a different prefix is listed in front of a serial break for a part to let you know what serial number to go by. H tractor parts books use the same part # break for engine or chassis. When built the numbers matched.
In IH parts books when the engine and chassis numbers don't match a different prefix is listed in front of a serial break for a part to let you know what serial number to go by. H tractor parts books use the same part # break for engine or chassis. When built the numbers matched.
Zachary Hoyt
Well-known Member
my 1949 H has the same number on the block as on the tag, and
so have some of the other Hs I have had. I have read that Hs did
match from the factory while some other models did not, can't
remember where I read that or which models were covered.
Zach
so have some of the other Hs I have had. I have read that Hs did
match from the factory while some other models did not, can't
remember where I read that or which models were covered.
Zach
CoopertownBob
Member
Let me try that for you. My scan came out pretty clear.
Basically, line item number 1 states;
"1. Model "H" Tractors. Engine and chassis numbers are the same."
Then it goes on to explain that M's are not matched due to the production of the MD, and that W series do not match either, but no explanation is given as to why not.
Basically, the H series is one of the very few tractor lines where the numbers match from start to end.
Basically, line item number 1 states;
"1. Model "H" Tractors. Engine and chassis numbers are the same."
Then it goes on to explain that M's are not matched due to the production of the MD, and that W series do not match either, but no explanation is given as to why not.
Basically, the H series is one of the very few tractor lines where the numbers match from start to end.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Thanks for info, Coopertown Bob. Looks like I've got a replacement motor. Serial No. on block is 181953. Serial tag no. is 280868. Not a big deal really. I'm not a member of the correct police force.
CoopertownBob
Member
IH must have gotten delayed on finishing that 44-48 model tractor by the war! :lol:
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