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welding farmall sheet metal

M

mkirsch

Well-known Member
Think I can weld the hood on my M with a stick welder and 1/16" rods?

I can successfully weld 1/16" steel with a stick welder and the M hood is pretty thick stuff.

Ideally a MIG would be the answer, but I don't know anyone who owns one, and the body shop wants huge $$$ for a few minutes of work, and can't get to it for weeks.

I'm going to back the metal up with another piece the same thickness and do spot welds, just like with a MIG.
 
(quoted from post at 07:39:29 05/29/12) Think I can weld the hood on my M with a stick welder and 1/16" rods?

I can successfully weld 1/16" steel with a stick welder and the M hood is pretty thick stuff.

Ideally a MIG would be the answer, but I don't know anyone who owns one, and the body shop wants huge $$$ for a few minutes of work, and can't get to it for weeks.

I'm going to back the metal up with another piece the same thickness and do spot welds, just like with a MIG.
Click to expand...

Do a series of spot welds, being careful to never allow the sheet metal to get too hot, and I think you'll get along okay.
 
Do you have a welding shop in the area? Just take $20 and have them do it. Cash speaks when it comes to those guys.
 
A lot will depend on how good you are at welding. Things like what your trying to do is why when a mig welder came up at an auction I went to not long ago and I got it for $12 I figured it was more then worth the gamble and now after spending about $40 in parts for it the boy has been doing exhaust work on a motorcycle with it. Things like having a none metal backing plate some times help when welding thing stuff so as to keep it from warping and also helps keep a person from burning a hole in thin stuff.
 
(quoted from post at 08:30:31 05/29/12) Do you have a welding shop in the area? Just take $20 and have them do it. Cash speaks when it comes to those guys.
Click to expand...

Don't know of any welding shops, but the body shops want too much $$$ and I'd go on a waiting list.
 
If it is cracks you are going after, use brazing. The stick welder will tend to melt out the sides of the cracks. Also will tend to leave the surface wavy after it cools.
If you do use stick, weld an inch & let it cool--then another inch.
 
You need to move out here. We have a welding shop in every city. There are two in my hometown of 7500 people.
 
Find a muffler shop and they can weld the sheet metal for you. If you aren't really good you can destroy a hood with the wrong stick rods.
 
I don't claim to be a "welder" by any means, but I can get along OK on thicker stuff with my AC/DC welder. On real thin stuff...like exhaust pipe/muffler...I use Oxy/Acetylene and a coat hanger or steel gas welding rods. Use a "welding" tip and NOT cutting torch.

I wish you well...

Rick
 
A good muffler shop could also do it and if you did the prep work your self if they are like the shops in my area $10-20 would cover it or maybe even a 6 pack or case of beer depending on there moods
 
I always use brazing for this thin stuff because I only have a stick welder. Even so I would not start with a 6011 rod but would consider a drag rod like a 6014 and no more than 3/32". The 6014 rod is not nearly as hot as the 6011 rod. Set the welder as cold as possible. The drag rod will require that you do some grinding when you are finished but the burn holes will be less. Personally I would gas weld or braze as others have suggested. Gas welding or Tig is what the body shops will do.
 
Yes you can. I had to fill in a spot where the hood had rubbed on the oil gauge mounting plate causing a hole about 1/4" wide by 1 1/2" long. It took alot of patience but I got it done. Sometimes I amaze myself cause I don't have too much patience.
 
Do you have access to a DC welder? DC+ works best on light metal. The current flows from the base metal into the electrode in DC+. With DC-, the current goes from the electrode to the base metal (this would cause the weld to "blow" holes easier. It is also used for cutting). Therefore, DC+ works best with light metal, because it is lest likely to "blow" holes. Also, use a 3/32, 6013 rod at as low an amperage as you can weld without sticking real bad. 6013 is considered a sheet metal electrode.
 
Years ago when I did not have a mig welder I modified several car oil pans (for dirt track) with a stick welder just like the reply below this one.

I used a 3/32 6013 with DC on "straight polarity" i.e. electrode negative. I don't call myself a welder in the trade sense, and maybe it wasn't technically the right way, but with it setup like that it seemed to make more of a spraying arc instead of a penetrating digging arc.

Mainly do some practice on some junk metal of similar thickness.
 
Unless you have tons of experience you are going to burn thru and get warpage due to the heat so grind and then comes the Bondo there has to be more than one body shop in your area.. Just mite be cheaper to get another hood.
 
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