Darn B generator problem still

When i gound the F post the generator puts out 8.5 volts. New headlamp switch didn't change anything. My cut out relay terminals are burnt so i need a new one. Are they normally open?? what closes the cut out??

I went to Case ih and they got me a 6v positive ground cut out relay. I only has 2 posts to it. one with a + and the other terminal has nothing to it. How does that hook up??

It says positive goumd Arm to the + and i assume the battery connection to the unmarked terminal???

I also have a 6V Pos cut out from i p/n 594191c1 and it says REGULATOR on the box. It has an L terminal, BAT terminal and F terminal. underneath the box it has an UNMARKED terminal???

will that work?

I looked at my International AI generator.
It has a wire to the F terminal on the cut out looks like it was taped up and a wire to the F post?? what is the deal there??

I know you guys said i could just ground the F post and mess with the armature brushes and set it to charge low, but i want to wire it orginal cause that should work???

The lights work, there are two connections the light switch. the front lights are to the lower ones and the rear light was to the upper connection with the coil resistor. i moved it down to the other light connection cause that resistor was hot with switch off.

I just wonder if this tractor was wired rigtht before me and i m screwing it up cause of the way it was before??

Help!!!

When i got the gernerator back from the rebuild shop, it still had the oringal cut out on top the generator. i rememeber the cut out contacts being burned (gone) so i thought it would be replaced. i called them and they said, nope its good.

do those contacts really matter or will it just max charge if that contact doesn't work???????????

I moved F wire directly to the F post on the generator. mounted the 6v cutout regluator (part number D100 on website www.waiglobal.com)

I mounted that cut out with the + post wired to the A post and the BAT wire to the other side. i think thats right. sticker on cutout says its for positive or negative ground. and says to ARM on sticker on the + side of the cutout for pos grn.

System charges at 8.5 volts WOT and 7.5 volts at idle.

AS SOON AS I TURN HEADLAMPS AND REAR LIGHT ON, IT GOES TO 6.5 AND DROPS AND DOESNT STAY CHARGING. NOW WHAT?? thanks for all the help guys. such a simple thing i can't figure out. its frustrating.

The switch for the lights controls the charge rate. If the switch is grounded well on H it should charge OK with the lights on (maybe 3 0r 4 amps.) The wire from the switch must be from the correct terminal. It should be the terminal that is fully grounded when on H charge, or D or B, and with the resistor (not the light resistor) in the circuit when on the L position (about 2 to 3 ohms)
To see if it will charge correctly with the lights on, run it at 3/4 throttle, turn on the lights and ground the F terminal on the gen. If it now charges enough (7volts or a bit more) the switch is not going to full ground (possible wrong terminal)

That switch has to be well grounded too.

When you change from a cutout to a regulator, there are some wiring changes to make in order for the 4-position switch to work properly as a simple light switch.

Sorry I can't remember what the changes are off the top of my head, but I'm pretty sure that's your problem.

Here is the page from the book that came with my grandads B back in 1941. If you would open your email, I would send you the original .jpg file so you can zoom in or out.

Just out of interest, what is current flow at High Charge and at Low Charge Rate? Delco systems are rare out here; we have Lucas gear. My Farmall has a voltage regulator. If I start the tractor with the crank, it just charges at four or five amps and then drops to one or two when the battery is charged up. If I use the starter motor, then it charges at fifteen amps for a short time and slowly drops back to a trickle charge. I had a Delco generator on the Farmall M for a while and it never seemed to charge more than four amps. I thought the generator was defective, but maybe that's just how much it was designed to produce?
SadFarmall

If it charges like you indicated when you ground the field that proves you have a grounding problem (or poor wire from field to switch) at the switch. I like to run a separate ground wire from the light switch back to the generator mount. That eleminates all rusted connections at light switch mounting, box , and brackets.