I have a 1945 A Farmall. I used it today, start and shutoff many times. When I finished mower my lawn I shut down, to wash the deck and tractor off. But my hose was not long enough, so I was going to move the tractor closer, it would not fire at all. There is spark from the mag coil, and spart to the plugs, it is getting gas to the carb. I chesked the points set at 13, the dist cap looked very good no buildup and the center button looked good about that center button it moves up and down the rotor also looked good. Now then would a weak or dead condenser cause this? Thanks in advance, I have been away form mechanic work for quite awhile. Gordo.
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- Thread starter Gordoro
- Start date
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
Ok so you say mag then distributor which do you have hard to help you help your self if you do not know if it is a mag or distributor and they are not the same thing.
Sorry about the confusion. It does have a mag. I guess when I see the cap with the plug wires coming out and the mag wire going into it I just think about a distributor. It sure was different just to get to the points. That was the difference. Mag points under a seperate flange with 3 screws holding it on. In a distributor the points would have been in the bottom of the dist. On the mag I took off the cap, that is where I found the coil. Thanks again As you can well see I have never worked on an ignition system like this. But I own the A and it is time to learn. Thanks again Gordoro.
Hi again, well shut the gas off and tried to start it, just will not fire. I checked the spark again, from the mag wire spark is a bluish 1/4 or maybe just a tad longer. But the spark at the plug just does not look that strong. Sort of a blueish to whiteish but just about an 1/8th. What could cause a weak spark at the plug? Or am I just thinking the spark is not strong enough. The tractor run ok all day< I just shut it off and about 15min later tried to start it up again and nothing. Starter spins the motor over but it just will not start. Thanks again, Gordoro.
Tell me if I am wrong I am open to all thoughts and critisizm. I tried this about a month ago. The little pipe plug in the manifold just above the carb I removed while motor was running and put my finger over the hole, what a suction. Well I just tried it again only this time the motor is not running, I used the starter instead, spun the motor over real good, no suction. Therefore no suction no gas to cylinders right or wrong? But just before I did the test I removed the plugs, they were dry.
Squirt some engine oil on top the pistons after removing the sparkplugs. Then spin the engine over and then squirt some oil on top of them and replace the plugs. Then see if the engine fires when attemping a start. If it doesn't fire remove the plugs and do a compression test or have someone do it and see what your readings are. Low suction means low intake manifold vacuum. When was that last time this engine ran? It may need an engine rebuild. Hal
Unlikely that it's an issue. Hard to build up vacuum at slow speed with the open carb sitting right there.
But you can try to feel for vacuum over the face of the carb's inlet. Might be more accurate at slow starter speed.
If there truly is no vacuum - you've got to look for a leak in the manifold connection.
It can happen, but I'm still thinking it's much more likely a problem with the carb. Either blocked internally - or flooding.
Does it drip gas at all? if so that hints at flooding.
However firing only with starting fluid hints that you've got gas blockage.
Personally I'd focos on that angle. Remove the carb and clean everything.
But you can try to feel for vacuum over the face of the carb's inlet. Might be more accurate at slow starter speed.
If there truly is no vacuum - you've got to look for a leak in the manifold connection.
It can happen, but I'm still thinking it's much more likely a problem with the carb. Either blocked internally - or flooding.
Does it drip gas at all? if so that hints at flooding.
However firing only with starting fluid hints that you've got gas blockage.
Personally I'd focos on that angle. Remove the carb and clean everything.
Jim Becker
Well-known Member
There is nothing wrong with what you said. The entire portion of the magneto behind the points is called a distributor. The cap with all the secondary wires stuck in it is a distributor cap.(quoted from post at 05:28:26 05/25/12) Sorry about the confusion. It does have a mag. I guess when I see the cap with the plug wires coming out and the mag wire going into it I just think about a distributor.
The spark at the plugs should be about as good as the spark at the coil. You appear to have a problem with the cap, rotor or the wires. Make sure you have solid core wires, not resistor wires. I'm not saying this is the cause of your current starting/running problem, but you do want to look into it either now or later.
Hi again, you mentioned does the carb leak, yes. But up until the time that it would not start it did not leak. So the carb is coming off again, if it is leaking probably need to replace nedle and seat. I am getting quite goood at removing and reinstalling this carb this will probably be the 4th or 5th time. And why I have is because it would not run smooth at low rpms it would miss fire. So I was adjusting the float level. But at full throttle it would run perfect. Thanks again.
It's very likely that you're just flooded. It'll never start in that condition.
Try this -
Turn the gas off to the carb. Let it sit for a while - like 20 minutes.
Then try starting it as normal - but with the gas off. (be sure to choke it)
When the carb has too much gas in it, it's just not going to work right - But as you crank the engine, it's going to draw gas out of the carb.
If the gas line is shut off (and IS truely shut off - assuming if you've taken the carb off, the shutoff valve IS turning the gas off) then cranking the engine will slowly empty the carb until it hits the magical point where it flows properly and will actually start the engine.
If it does start, it should run long enough to all you to quickly turn the gas back on and you're up and running.
If it fires a few times but doesn't start - you might need to refil the carb and try again - open the gas line for 10 seconds or so to fill it up.
If that process works - it's then your choice - you can either always start the tractor that way - or adjust your floats to keep it from flooding.
Try this -
Turn the gas off to the carb. Let it sit for a while - like 20 minutes.
Then try starting it as normal - but with the gas off. (be sure to choke it)
When the carb has too much gas in it, it's just not going to work right - But as you crank the engine, it's going to draw gas out of the carb.
If the gas line is shut off (and IS truely shut off - assuming if you've taken the carb off, the shutoff valve IS turning the gas off) then cranking the engine will slowly empty the carb until it hits the magical point where it flows properly and will actually start the engine.
If it does start, it should run long enough to all you to quickly turn the gas back on and you're up and running.
If it fires a few times but doesn't start - you might need to refil the carb and try again - open the gas line for 10 seconds or so to fill it up.
If that process works - it's then your choice - you can either always start the tractor that way - or adjust your floats to keep it from flooding.
Hi, here is what I just did. Took the carb apart took out all jets blew out all passages reduced the float a tad. No more leak and still gas in carb. Gas is not getting to cylinders. The suction at the air claner above the tractor has enough suction that I have to pull my hand off the opening. The tractor is inside now, the spark at the plugs is blueish and bright. Compression start at rad. 1. 120 2.120 3.122 4. 120. Suction at carb opening will hold a piece of paper while spinning motor over with starter. That is between the air cleaner and carb. I will try JR Suttons way now. Thanks again Gordoro.
Hi, I tried JR Suttons way so far no start. I also took the drain plug out of the bottom of the carb replaced it with a piece of pipe with a clear plastic hose attached. I then raised the hose above the carb. With the gas turned on the level of gas in the carb is about 2/3 full. It will remain that way while running the starter with gas on. Did it that way for a check on the action of the float. Then went back to gas off wait and then try. Still no start. This could get frustrating. Ill try again later. Thanks again Gordoro. Any other suggestions? I am open to anything just to get it running. Thanks.
I just posted a reply earlier on the 26th about using JR method of starting I just came in from trying to start it. I am not getting gas to the spark plugs. As I stated before holding my hand over the air cleaner intake I have to force to pull my hand off while spinning the starter. But chokeing just does not draw gas to the plugs. I am at a loss as what to do now. Anyway thanks. Gordoro.
Thanks Gene, got the timing right better spark at the plugs. But I just can not get gas to the plugs. I even tried to choke it a lot longer but the plugs stay dry. I put about a teaspoon of gas in each cylinder. All I got after a little spinning of the starter was a backfire from the exhaust. I have gas to the carb, I checked this with a hose hooked to the bottom of the carb and one end above the carb it shows the level of gas in the carb about 2/3"s. Gas runs freely from the tank. While spinning the motor over with the starter I put hand over the air cleaner intake above the tractor and have to pull quite hard to remove it. Seems like a lot of suction. Has anyone got any more suggestions? I.m almost getting desperate. Hope I don"t wear out the starter. Must have been rebuilt before I bought it cause it sure works good. Thankfully. Anyway thanks any and all help is sure appreciated. Gordo
No luck yet, I can"t get gas to the plugs. I am going to replace the intake manifold gasket. What I see is no suction no gas. Going back in memory, the tractor never would idle down always a miss. I kept adjusting the float. Maybe it was not the carb but intake gasket leaking? Also I had to run starter longer with a higher gas lever at above 1/2 to get started.Nothing open today will get parts tomorrow. Thanks for the help. Gordo.
I just installed intake and exhaust gaskets, cap, plug wires. No start. Then I decided to install new points. when finished with all of the above hit the starter and success, never run smother, and starts almost instantly. I want to thank all the help I got from all of you. Could not have done without you. Once again Thanks. Gordoro.
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