Famall B valve clearence

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is the gap .014" HOT? do i just set 1 and 4 TDC and adjust those cylinders and 2 and 3 to TDC and adjust those?

the engine has a miss at times while running. rebuilt carb and mag. still the same but doesn't die like before. The carb float had gas in it.

still flutters but able to mow with it. just a pop pop pop then clears and come right back. have not tested compression or cylinder leakage yet. intake gaskets don't seem to be leaking.
 
My H had that fluttert, couple of items. The plug wires were shot and the advance had broken spring in the distributor. I am all for checking the valves, but might want to check the others too.
 
yes. new wires from ih. plugs are ac delco C87's
mag is new condenser, coil and points.

what should the gap be on valves if cold? .015" or .016"??
 
OK i would take out the new plugs and lay them in order so you know which cycl they came from. They should all look the same. I just finished new sleeves ect. Had a miss took all the plugs out in order then compared found one that looked bad and replaced with another new one problem solved. AC 87 Starts on the first fire now and runs just fine like its supposed to.
 
Cylinders run in mates, one and four are mates, two and three are mates, but you do not set valves on both cylinders at same time. You set number one cyl when number four cyl valves are in the overlap position. In other words , exhaust just closed, intake just starting to open. This will then have number one in firing, compression position. Go down firing order 1 3 4 2 , half turn at a time and set the rest. .014 is clearance. Hot, cold , or in between. Room temp preffered for most accurate measurement, (so you don't burn your self).
 
Crank the engine by hand and watch the valves. You'll see the pattern pretty quickly.

Harder to describe it than it is to just look at it and figure it out.

But both valves will have dead time together in the cycle - exhaust goes down and up - intake goes down and up - then there's a long lag time where neither valve moves. that's your compression stroke.

If you get it anywhere in that lag time you should be fine - technically you want to be at tdc on that compression stroke - but even if you're off a little in either direction it doesn't really matter. Don't need to get super accurate.

Forget about what cylinders are tied together and just do each individually, it's much less confusing that way.

once you see the pattern you'll see what I mean.
 
to be honest I'm not really sure a couple of thousandths here or there makes a whole lot of difference.

To do it "right" I'd say go to 16 if it's cold and you're just trying to get it ready to run - then you can re-adjust later when it's warm.

Once you've done it a few times it just get so easy that it takes you about 5 minutes.
 

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