Farmall 200 hard to start

I rebuilt my farmall 200 and it runs great, but the problem is getting it started. When I crank the tractor over with the choke on fuel runs out the intake side of the carb. Sometimes it will start after this and its fine and other times it won't. All the cylinders have 150psi of compression. I tried advancing the timing. I switched exhaust manifolds, but the problem still remains. I also pulled the carb apart and blew out all the jets. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Also wanted to add that I put my hand over the carb and there is plenty of suction. Carburetor only leaks when trying to start with choke on.

I suspect too much choke. With that compression and probably converted to 12v, I'll bet your flooding it instantly. Spinning it as fast as the 12v does it creates a lot more vacuum than a 6v system.
I would try throttle 1/2 to 3/4's open when starting. If you think you've flooded it open it all the way.

My Farmalls: 2-Super H's,Super C, 200, and 300 need NO choke at all unless it's cold or they've been sitting for a long time. All start at 1/2 open throttle. All will start at any throttle position but 1/2 is the best.

I agree with Dean,
With the hose of the air intake off, put a 3/16" drill bit in the opening and close the choke butterfly on it. This will allow you to mark the choke rod with a pen where it is held at the operator's station, so that you can use that position to start it. (at least it is a starting point) (take the drill out before starting!) Jim

The tractor is still 6v and when I pulled my spark plugs they are dry.

I agree with Jim N and Dean - it sounds like too much choke.

Those Farmall engines generally require little if any choke to start in warm weather. On mine I open the throttle about 1/4 then hit the starter. If the engine doesn't fire in the first couple revolutions, quickly "snap" the choke closed then full open again and they take right off.

Don't crank the engine more than a revolution or two with the choke closed - it will quickly flood as you have discovered!

Clues are conflicting. Typically if you have gas running out the intake after pulling choke rod you've flooded it.

I've never used the wet/dry spark plug check for any thing other than small mower engines.

I don't think it works that way with an updraft engine. You need the air fuel vaporized. If you over choke it all the liquid runs down and out the inlet like you described. Only air get's into the cylinders hence dry plugs.

I'm getting a little out of my depth here. The Experts need to chime in on this and let us know.

I do know that on my Farmalls, IF I choke at all, I DO NOT hold the choke closed. It's a quick out then in of the rod. Choke is probably closed for less than 1 revolution of the engine.

Have you tried to start WITHOUT the choke?

Every tractor is a little bit different in what it needs to start easily. You have to find that happy place your tractor wants to be in, and go there each and every time you start it.

You could need anywhere from full choke, to a quick blip, to no choke at all.

It's also possible that you are not getting a good spark while cranking. If your starter motor has problems it will be drawing too much current, and you will not get good spark.

When I start my C, I pull that starter rod, and then pull-push that choke rod in and out real quick until the thing pops off. It doesn't take too much to over choke it.

I'm wondering if the choke has any real impact on the gas dripping, or if that's just a coincidence.

Do you shut the gas off to the carb when not in use?

Typically if the floats are off - it'll start dripping after you open the gas up, but only if you don't get it started right away.

It takes a while to start dripping because the bowl has to fill up full first - and that can take quite a few number of seconds to happen.

As you're starting it - it's drawing gas in, slowing the drip a little more.

Once you've started, it usually sucks in enough gas to keep from dripping.

But if it doesn't start - you'll definitely see it dripping a lot.

What I would do turn the gas off and try starting it. Whether it starts or not doesn't matter - you just want to get most of the gas out.

Let it sit for a while (hour or so just to be sure).

Tturn the gas on for a two seconds, then turn it off. Check the carb, make sure it's not dripping.

Choke as usual - full or 3/4 and try starting it. (even try in and out while starting)

If it doesn't start - open the gas for a little longer to make sure you've got enough in there - then try again.

If it starts that way - you can be pretty sure your floats are off and letting too much gas in. In other words, don't focus on the choke.

Choke or no choke it still doesn't start. I'm thinking maybe the problem is on the ignition side. I do have spark, but maybe it's not quite hot enough with the starter drawing, like you said. I'm going to put in new points and condenser tomorrow. Thanks again for all the input. I will keep you guys updated on my progress.

The Super C was hard to start. It cranked over like crazy on 12V but would not fire.

I bought a cheap starter off ebay on a whim, put it on the tractor, and now it starts perfectly.

Dad took the old starter over to my uncle. The shaft is BENT enough that the armature was actually hitting the field.

Ok I put a new IH condenser and points in this morning. She starts right up every time now. I believe my condenser was getting weak and with the starter drawing it wasn't getting a hot enough spark. Thanks again for all the input.