New 1086 owner

Well like the title says, I"m the new owner of a 1086. I"ve got a few questions about it so far, ya ya I know, get a manual. Well I"ve got one but not everything is in there.

So first question, is the clutch in them all hard to push down when the tractor isn"t running? Its extremely hard for my 75 y/o grandfather to get the tractor started with it like that.

Second question, the previous owner was terrified of wrecking the T/A so he never used it. This causing the handle (linkages/cables?) To seize up on it. Anyone else ran into this problem? Where do I start to free this up or can I? Also, please school me on proper usage of the T/A please.

Third question, where can I hook up a reliable aftermarket temperature gauge? I just got the tractor yesterday and really haven"t had time to look where to hook one in.

TIA, I"m sure I will have more questions to come.
 
As for the clutch, ours is the same way. Hard to push down when not running until pressure builds up. Our clutch switch was bypassed at some point as you dont need to push it down to start.
 
Freewheeling with a heavy load will make it difficult to stop as the engine will not be assisting you. Plus it can ruin your TA if it gets overspun. I use them mostly when doing heavy tillage when I get to the end of a field or if chopping and get into some heavy material.
 
TA's don't free wheel on these hydraulic actuated TA models. It has hydraulic lock up clutch to prevent this. Far as clutch, I would install a safety start switch on the park lever so you can start it when in park. It may have one that is not working but they were not on the earlier ones. TA lever, first unhook the link at fire wall under hood to determine if it is lever or cable or both. Only good way to loosen up the lever is to take it and clutch pedal assembly apart. There is a new style needle bearing detent arm that also makes them work easier. If cable is stiff, you can try to lubricate and then replace it or just replace it right away.
 
The TA cable is notorious for seizeing up after years of use, particularly in colder areas, usually the top end is bent, its a little L shape where it goes into lever, threaded into cable. 86 with cabs had a lot of grief with cab mounts (isomounts), you can test with just pushing clutch pedal with engine off, if cab moves up & down they are suspect. You should examine these 2 areas before attempting any adjustments, it might cure a lot of ills.
 
Ok that's what I figured you ment. Ill mostly be doing tillage with this tractor to, maybe cut hay or round baler but we will see how it works on the bale.
 
When you free up or replace the TA cable, shift it with authority. The lever is either forward or back, NEVER in between.

The 1086 should not freewheel with the TA lever back, but it might if the hydraulic pressures were not set up properly. Just be aware that it is possible. If you feel the tractor starting to run away on you going down a hill, stomp on the brakes, and throw the TA lever ahead.

If the TA doesn't freewheel the first time then it is okay. You don't need to live in fear of it suddenly freewheeling out of nowhere, though it doesn't hurt to pay attention to what you're doing and ALWAYS have an escape plan in your head if things change suddenly.
 
The clutch is hydraulic, after the engine starts fluid goes to it to assist and it much easierto push in. Why an after market temp gauge? Is the stock on not working?
 
(quoted from post at 09:08:22 05/15/12) Ya as soon as I turn the key on it goes right to the top off the gauge

Either the sender or the wire going to it are shorted to ground. The sender is located in the head above the alternator behind the water filter bracket.

Disconnect the wire from the sender and see if the gauge still goes to full hot. If it makes no difference then check for a damaged wiring harness. The last possibility would be the gauge itself has internal problems
 

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