I bought the 300

Zachary Hoyt · May 12, 2012

I got it for a total of $1180 with tax and a neighbor hauled it home for me for $50 along with a pile of metal roofing and a couple of 9.00-20 truck tires for spares for the dump wagon. I am under the impression that the engine is stuck as I was not able to turn it with the crank. I'll pull the rod and main bearing caps and see if any are spun. I am wondering if the Dr Seuss shifter is supposed to be like that or if that is a special feature of this particular tractor. It does shift in and out of gear and the brakes are surprisingly good, much to my relief when I was backing it down the trailer ramps. I am somewhat at a loss about the instrument panel, it almost looks like a key is required. Tractor has a generator and I am wondering if it would have been 6 or 12 volt. There is a coolant heater and I am wondering if I just plug it in to operate it or if there is more to it than that The tires are in much better shape than I had thought they might be after sitting in the dirt. I will buy a manual soon, once I find out if the engine is repairable. Any advice about any of these matters will be much appreciated.
Zach

boring1 · May 12, 2012

That is the correct gear shift. If it has a generator it is still 6 volt. Good luck with it I just bought a 350 u

Benjaminmn2012 · May 12, 2012

congrats on the 300 however you paid too much for it I have bought running 300's as cheap as 800 but lately 1200-1500 area for good running one here in the midwest

TJV · May 12, 2012

by dr suess shifter you mean the long curved shift lever yes that is the standard lever for this tractor making it easier to reach than the short shift of the m or h. Our 300 was factory 6 volt positve ground when we got it but someone could have changed yours along the way so what it is now is anyones guess if the tag on the generator or regulator does not say or is readable. yes originaly it had a 3 position key switch off/on/start alot like your car, it used a simple but odd looking brass key which from what i read here in these forums are still available as replacements. as far as the coolant heater goes by what i see in the picture you should be able to plug it in to operate as long as there is coolant in the system no special tricks that i know of. hope this info helps

mkirsch · May 12, 2012

Only special trick I know of with the coolant heater is to yank it off there and throw it as far as your arm will allow. That tractor will start in the cold as long as it will turn over.

504 · May 12, 2012

The brass key is a "D-R" stamped in it. The last one I bought came from my Allis Chalmers dealer. There are more than one keys but you need the DR.

armand tatro · May 12, 2012

New from the factory the ing. keys for the 300,400,450,460,560,06series tractors, 03 series combines, and other machines came with the same same style key. It was a common shape key that fit many machines as I have steted. That key is still aviable thru Case/IH dealers. Armand

rhtx55 · May 13, 2012

Congrats on a nice find. They make a good head-turner at shows, no too many of them out there. Here's an example of the finished product:

Don R of MN · May 13, 2012

Shame on you for telling another person he paid to much for that 300 or anything else. As we should know the corect price for anything is when both the seller and the buyer have agreed on it.

sflem849 · May 13, 2012

(quoted from post at 06:24:21 05/13/12) Shame on you for telling another person he paid to much for that 300 or anything else. As we should know the corect price for anything is when both the seller and the buyer have agreed on it.

I agree with Don R. That is his call. It is important for people to share what tractors are selling for. There is no where else to look to get a feel for what they are worth.
I do agree that it was pretty pricey for a froze up engine, but you wouldn't buy them for any less here in WI. Also, the OP is located in New England where tractor values are the highest in the nation.

mkirsch · May 13, 2012

I wouldn't consider any part of NY state as "New England," but I do agree that tractor prices are among the highest in the nation. Deals are far and few between...

rankrank1 · May 13, 2012

Thanks for sharing. Looks worth fixing to me as it looks to be all there. I have been looking for quite some time for either a Super H or a 300 at a good price and have yet to find one. Both of these models always seem to command a price premium. FWIW I think you done okay on price since it was so close to your home you saved on hauling. In the midwest the few 300's that I have found were in rough shape and much more $.

CNKS · May 13, 2012

Too much depends on how bad a person wants it. It is an agreement between the buyer and seller. I paid $2500 last summer for a good running intact Farmall 350 that will cost me $4-$5000 to restore. I have no regrets. Third tractor I have bought from Steel Wheel Ranch, two of them sight unseen, no problems with that either. Cheap doesn't always work.

Rootsy · May 13, 2012

Key is on/off for ignition. There is a push button in dash to actuate starter. Grab the fan, put side pressure on fan belt and see if she will move. The crank stub shafts are generally frozen in place.

rhtx55 · May 13, 2012

He is correct for the later 350, but on a 300 the key is off on start like an auto. The key is available here on this website, Steiner's, ebay, lots of places, be sure to buy an extra or two. They look like this:

That is not your average Farmall 300, three hydraulic remotes, (options were 1,2 or 3), it has early style fast hitch ( without traction control) so it is an early (1954 to mid 1955) produced row crop. It has the belt pulley drive, the retarder valve in the line for the small cylinder on the side, some pretty hard to find parts now-a days.
A F300 with these options always run higher than those you see in much worse condition, or only have the standard drawbar. I'd say it was a fair price. First thing I would try is a 12 volt battery with the coil disconnected to see if it will turn over, or remove the starter & see if a pry bar in the teeth of the flywheel will move it. Keep us posted.

Charlie M · May 13, 2012

From what I have seen I would have gone that much to buy it. It looks like a great project tractor to me. Around here even total junk tractors don't seem to be cheap.

CenTex Farmall · May 13, 2012

Not bad! Pull the plugs and if there's no sign of corrosion it may just be a light stick. Soak the cylinders good and the drop the pan to check out the bottom end.

You have fast hitch and IPTO so you can do anything you need to in a handy size. Rear tires don't look too bad. Battery box don't look too bad in the photos.

I don't think the price is out of line. The value will hold then go up as you get it operational.
Last year I bought a 300LP for $400 bucks. It runs good but the PTO drive gear is out and will require splitting and parts.

sflem849 · May 13, 2012

Wouldn't New England be the NEW England? Like the 13 colonies that the English started over here? At least that is the way they taught us in Wisconsin.

We had a class on this my freshman year of college. I don't remember much from it, but we had to say which states were in which region. Like what states were in "The South" or "Midwest" etc. It was kind of strange because states like Illinois some people consider in the south. I suppose...they do talk funny once you get half way down. :lol:

realolman · May 13, 2012

(quoted from post at 15:37:26 05/13/12) Wouldn't New England be the NEW England? Like the 13 colonies that the English started over here? At least that is the way they taught us in Wisconsin.

We had a class on this my freshman year of college. I don't remember much from it, but we had to say which states were in which region. Like what states were in "The South" or "Midwest" etc. It was kind of strange because states like Illinois some people consider in the south. I suppose...they do talk funny once you get half way down. :lol:

FWIW I would consider New England to be the continental U.S. [b:d1554b160e]north[/b:d1554b160e] of New York... not including New York. .... you know ... New England.

Again FWIW (not much ) I would not have paid that much for that tractor. It might be worth it, but I wouldn't have bought it.

[/b]

Mark Peters · May 13, 2012

(quoted from post at 18:37:26 05/13/12) Wouldn't New England be the NEW England? Like the 13 colonies that the English started over here? At least that is the way they taught us in Wisconsin.

We had a class on this my freshman year of college. I don't remember much from it, but we had to say which states were in which region. Like what states were in "The South" or "Midwest" etc. It was kind of strange because states like Illinois some people consider in the south. I suppose...they do talk funny once you get half way down. :lol:

I`m from Wisconsin too, and don`t remember being taught that. We were taught that the New England states were in the northeast U.S. (Massachusetts,Vermont, New Hampshire,Maine,Rhode Island and Connecticut)
When we travel down to southern Illinois, Indiana, Missouri and even Iowa, they tell us that WE talk funny and think we`re from Canada LOL !!

sflem849 · May 13, 2012

I agree, nowdays it deals with just those 6. It seems New York and PA are in the same antique tractor market. What would you like to call that area? The Atlantic Northeast?

Zachary Hoyt · May 13, 2012

I grew up in Maine and moved here to NY 11 years ago. I was
always told that Northern New England is ME, NH, VT and Southern
is MA, CT, RI. I was also told that NY, NJ and PA were the 'Mid-
Atlantic' states. Not saying those are right for everyone, but they
seemed to work for some folks.
Zach

Maineman · May 13, 2012

Up here, New York is not a part of New England.
And what's north of New York is called Canada!
And if You can buy a complete tractor for around $1000.00'
That's cheap.

sflem849 · May 13, 2012

I will now call it Mid Atlantic/New England region. Either way their market the stongest in the country. It makes even Iowa look calm.

I think it was a pretty steep price, but the tractor is all there and has a bunch of goodies. I mostly think that because the engine is locked up. Then again my grandpa says the good engines are locked up and the junk was too sloppy to sieze. I also don't think he was more than a 100 or two off. Like the one poster said, it was super close. I have driven 248 miles each way for a "deal" ask d282. In the end Zach is WAY smarter than me.

realolman · May 14, 2012

I wish I wouldn't have said anything about the price. I keep forgetting how much stuff costs these days ... but on the other hand that may have something to do with why I wouldn't have bought it. You really need to get a deal to buy something you don't need these days.

I bought the 300

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