Me and My BIG Mouth!

Allan in NE

Well-known Member
Braggin' bout my 1066 'cause it was running so darned good yesterday.

Go out there this morning and it won't start....no fuel. No smoke no nothin'. Pops right off on either.

Ordered a pump. Somebody wanna walk me thru the R&R on this guy? Never yanked one on a 414.

Thanks in advance,

Allan
 
Humbling...

No matter how I try, seems I am my worst curse by speaking out loud.

D.

Sorry to hear of the woes, but I am sure that there's a competent mechanic nearby. (meant light hearted)
 
Easy , Allen pull the plug that looks like a pipe plug then pull the timing cover on the fly wheel housing and put the timing pointer back in the hole put the two 1/4 inch bolts back in , Now with out me running back out to the truck this evening and getting my book out to be correct on the timing set the flywheel timing marks to factory spec. then look in the hole to see if you are lined up on the marks on the gear and pointer in the little hole . Sometimes they are hard to see and if ya don't see nothing roll the engine over tilll the timing marks come up again and look again. Once ya find the timing marks pull the lines , linkage and then remove the pump.
 
I bragged to the company field man how are old 1066 could drag that semi load of tomatoes across the field with authority when we were standing out in the field watching the old gal.
No more and got the words out of my mouth and she tied up right now. Sleeve cavitation.
 
Get your manual out, it's a piece of cake. I didn't bother with checking the pump timing, it is either right or 180 degrees out, if it's wrong it only takes about three minutes to change it if it won't start once the pump is installed.
 
1066 should be timed at 18° BTDC. Early engines do not have the pipe plug hole to check the timing. It doesn't make any difference when you are replacing the pump since you have to remove the front cover anyway.

When you reinstall the new pump you have a 50/50 chance of being off 180° on timing. After you get the injectors bled, it it doesn't fire up easily, remove the bolts holding the front gear to the pump hub and rotate the pump one turn and try again. They will start and run with the timing off 180° but you will have lots of smoke and little power.
 
Thanks Owen,

Well, if it would start, that would sure be an improvement from what I have now. :>)

So, it's not like the Roosie Master? It won't just pull off that shaft? Whole darned shaft has to come?

This is one of the very last 1066s built. Has that '86 rear end.

Appreciate your help,

Allan
 
Been thru every damned manual I've got 'round here and there's not a word about that pump. :>(

So, do I just unbolt the gear from the shaft and then yank the pump via the 3 mounting bolts on the pump housing?

Thanks,

Allan
 
Been thru every damned manual I've got 'round here and there's not a word about that pump. :>(

So, do I just unbolt the gear from the shaft and then yank the pump via the 3 mounting bolts on the pump housing?

Thanks,

Allan
 
Yeah, set the flywheel marks in position, take the gear off and then pull the pump off. Set the pointer on the new pump and stuff it in and reinstall the gear. Like pete said, it might be 180 out, if it doesn't light up you set the flywheel again, take the gear off again and turn the pump one turn, put the gear back on and you're done. My new pump came with instructions, they were a little clearer than th I&T manual.
 
The procedure is in the engine manual GSS-1427B in the fuel system section.

You don't even have to remove the gear. The book says to remove the adapter plate with the pump but I don't recall that I ever did that. You may have to remove the adapter plate with the pump if you leave the gear on the pump.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top