(quoted from post at 12:25:02 04/30/12) Anyone have a link to D.O.T. regulations on tailering ? Like a condensed version in plain english?lol Minnesota here. Thanks!

Just do a web search for "Minnesota D.O.T. regulations" or something like that. Be prepared to spend a few hours wading through all of it. You will learn a whole bunch of stuff you didn't know, and most of it will be totally irrelevant to what you you are doing.
 
Yeah, I tried that , and it was a little overwhelming ! I was wondering if anyone has taken the time to wade through it and just come up with what is pertinent to what guys like us do ?
 
basically what I have found for hauling in MN is anything under 26,000 pounds is fine with a basic drivers license. just use 4 chains for tying down with load binders. use your head and don"t overload anything including your truck.
 
I have seen the term "transport chain" or schedule 70, these come in 5/16 or 3/8. Anyone know if these are reqiured, or can any 3/8 chain be used.
 
I have hauled many, many loads of equipment, hay, tractors, firewood, etc. in MN, and I have only been checked 1 time. I has hauling round hay bales on my 14,000lb gooseneck trailer behind a (1979) 3/4 ton truck. Officer checked my straps, brakes, and lights. Said they wished every load would be as safe as mine was, and the truck I was using that day was 30 years old, and the trailer 10 years old. My point is, if everything is working properly and your load is secured properly, I highly doubt you'll have any issues.
 
Thank you. I also have hauled many loads, mainly cars and trucks, and have yet to be stopped. I have had troopers look me over from the other lane but must have looked okay. I use two 3/8 chains that go through the stake pockets and under the trailer to the other side, and then tighten with two binders on the rear. So there are 4 attachment points but only two chains. I had a guy comment to me the other day that he thought I would be in trouble if stopped like this. Got me thinking...
 
(quoted from post at 13:40:19 04/30/12) Thank you. I also have hauled many loads, mainly cars and trucks, and have yet to be stopped. I have had troopers look me over from the other lane but must have looked okay. I use two 3/8 chains that go through the stake pockets and under the trailer to the other side, and then tighten with two binders on the rear. So there are 4 attachment points but only two chains. I had a guy comment to me the other day that he thought I would be in trouble if stopped like this. Got me thinking...

Well that ain't gonna cut it if they stop you. I looked into it a year and a half ago and they specify one chain and binder per corner if the load is over a certain weight. That was directly from a MN DOT officer who also gave me a hand out. Same officer who had just wrote a guy up by Battle Lake Mn with a small trailer of brush heading to the dump for an unsecured load. Know a guy east of St Cloud who got an over weight ticket pulling a Bobcat behind an F150 too. What I would do is next time you see DOT enforcement set up some place stop and talk to em. I'm sure they will have the current info.

Rick
 
What you are hauling has little to do with CDL requirements in reguards to weight. What is important is Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. CDL requirements are based on manufacturer’s Gross Vehicle Ratings of the combined truck and trailer. The overall weight rating may not exceed 26,000 pounds total, and the trailer rating may not exceed 10,000 pounds of the 26,000-pound total.

So if you have a 1 ton dually pulling a double axle trailer that has a GVRW of 10,001 pounds or more you are breaking the law even if the trailer is empty and is tagged for 8,000 pounds.

If you are hauling a tractor and you don't have farm tags you will most likely fall under CDL requirements if you are over the 26,000 total or 10,000 trailer.

Recently Kansas started enforcing CDL requirements. Race cars being towed to Topeka raceway were being pulled over right and left for skipping the weigh stations on I70. While they are a hobby - the fact that TROPHIES were given out it was considered a business.
 
Here is a link:
http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/rules-regulations/truck/vehicle/cs-policy.htm
Look closely at:
393.130 - Heavy Vehicles, Equipment and Machinery
Note that <10,000 can be tied according to general freight requirements (4 corner chains not required).

393.112 Must a tiedown be adjustable?
Note the requirement "can tighten them" does not actually specify a binder on each chain. I interpret that a binder on one end that can move the cargo until the other chain is tight should be OK.

Also read all the general freight requirements from the start through the "Minimum Number of Tiedowns" section.
 
Thank you Jim. I found usefull info there,including if the chain is unmarked, it would be considered schedule 30 chain. Which in hauling cars, would be too light for the standard of 1/2 of the wieght of the load, if I interpeted it correctly that is ! lol . Sounds like if I just buy schedule 70 marked chain , use chains at each corner and start using 4 binders I should be in compliance.
 
Just to add, for autos and light trucks under 10,000 lbs it states that 2 attachment points are needed, am I reading that correctly? If so, and being able to tighten the load with the 2 binders, I may have been okay all along...
 
(quoted from post at 17:58:38 04/30/12) Thank you Jim. I found usefull info there,including if the chain is unmarked, it would be considered schedule 30 chain. Which in hauling cars, would be too light for the standard of 1/2 of the wieght of the load, if I interpeted it correctly that is ! lol . Sounds like if I just buy schedule 70 marked chain , use chains at each corner and start using 4 binders I should be in compliance.

I've got some old chains that I bought about 25 years ago that were sold as Transport schedule 70 chain but there are no markings on them. I'm sure that they are schedule 70 chain since the links have not deformed like a proof coil chain would but since it is unmarked if I use it now it will only be considered for the lowest rating for that size chain.

Interstate regulations apply to vehicles or combination of vehicles 10,000 lbs or more AND used in commerce. In Minnesota the commercial vehicle regulations start to apply at 26,000 instead of 10,000 if use exclusively within the State's borders.

Vehicle Gross Weight is the greater of either the manufacturers weight rating or the actual loaded weight. If the manufactures GVW cannot be determined then the actual loaded weight is used. The weight rating of the license plates makes no difference in determining the GVW ratings. If your actual weight is over your license rating it is a separate infraction.

Minnesota dropped the references to over 10,000 lbs trailer weight as requiring a CDL and inspection sticker since the law stated that trailers over 10,000 lbs AND the combined vehicle weight was 26,000 lbs was an intrastate commercial vehicle. The way the law was written the weight of the trailer never made any difference since the combined weight determined whether or not the vehicle had to comply with all the commercial regulations. The reference to trailers 10,000 lbs and over was just confusing.
 
(quoted from post at 18:19:40 04/30/12) Just to add, for autos and light trucks under 10,000 lbs it states that 2 attachment points are needed, am I reading that correctly? If so, and being able to tighten the load with the 2 binders, I may have been okay all along...
Yes, I read it the same.

When I haul a car, I typically chain from a point at each outer end of the rear suspension to near a rear corner of the trailer (usually with a loop of a single chain). Then I put a single chain front center and bind it forward. It always seems well anchored but I may be out of compliance on the "restraint in the lateral" at the front.
 
Yes, My old way as described always felt very secure, the vehicle would not move even the slightest bit, and seemed one piece with the trailer. What works well however, isnt always within the letter of the law I suppose. I want to avoid an issue with the Patrol if I can help it . Overkill may be my best bet here.
 
It is all very confusing! lol My 3/4 Dodge wieghs about 6200 lbs. empty by itself. My trailer in question wieghs about 2000 lbs. and is rated at 7,000 and licensed at 9,000 by P.O. On the scale with a heavy car the whole works has never been over 13,000 total, and truck is rated for a CGVW of 19,000 with max trailer wieght of 13,000 ,according to the manual.Anything I would ever tow using this trailer would be under 5,000, and usually way under.
 
Check closely it may say four points of tie down, and two 70 5/16 hold 4500-5400/2 each direction? but I think you need to hold total weight in one direction, not sure if you need four binders, what they don't want is one chain over the bucket of a skidsteer, or having it towed by a 1/2 T, I use two fixed #70 chains and two with binders, haul the same load all the time, straps work as well and easier on the paint
 
(quoted from post at 20:19:47 04/30/12) It is all very confusing! lol My 3/4 Dodge wieghs about 6200 lbs. empty by itself. My trailer in question wieghs about 2000 lbs. and is rated at 7,000 and licensed at 9,000 by P.O. On the scale with a heavy car the whole works has never been over 13,000 total, and truck is rated for a CGVW of 19,000 with max trailer wieght of 13,000 ,according to the manual.Anything I would ever tow using this trailer would be under 5,000, and usually way under.

First off you can ignore the license plate rating on the trailer when determining weight ratings as it applies to commercial vehicles. The first thing to determine is the definition of a vehicle. A vehicle is designed to carry passengers or cargo so it meets that criteria. Next step is it being used in commerce. That one is a little tougher since the State Patrol is likely to assume that it is. If you haul a car and either get paid for hauling or transporting to an event where monetary prizes are given they will consider it commerce. The last issue is manufacturers GVW. For intrastate use (never out of the state of Minnesota) the commercial vehicle definition begins at over 26,000 lbs. With a truck rated at 19,000 and a trailer rated at 7000 lbs it puts you at 26,000 lbs which is the maximum you can be and still not be considered a commercial vehicle. With those definitions your truck and trailer are not commercial vehicles in Minnesota as long as your actual loaded weight in not over 26,000 lbs.

One other thing that can change the determination of a commercial vehicle is if you are transporting any hazardous materials. If you transport hazardous materials in the amounts that they are required to be placarded the vehicle becomes a commercial vehicle no matter what the weight rating.

Not being a commercial vehicle gets you out of having to have a CDL and keeping a log book and inspection reports but the requirements are the same as far as vehicle condition and safe loading.
 
There is no such thing as DOT regulations put in "layman's terms." They are intentionally contradictory and intentionally confusing so that it is not possible to be 100% in compliance.

All you can do is do the best you can, make it look good, and hope the law doesn't pull you over, because they WILL find something to write you a ticket for no matter how hard you try.

If you're not commercial, you can get away with a lot more "sins" than commercial haulers, but you're still not immune.
 
Yeah, One of my buddies says just wait til you get pulled over, then you will know what the rules are !! lol Thats not my way however.
 
Thanks Owen, I have never been over 13,000 lbs total fully loaded that I am aware of, so I should be fine as far as commercial or CDL reqiurements. I apreciate everyones inputs ! Mike
 
(quoted from post at 07:04:51 05/01/12) Yeah, One of my buddies says just wait til you get pulled over, then you will know what the rules are !! lol Thats not my way however.

You're going to have to make it your way... There is no other way.

Dad bought a grain drill a few weeks ago, and needed to haul it about 100 miles. 15' wide, 9.5' long.

We were going to back it onto my deckover trailer sideways, but even then it was too wide. He called the NY State Police, county Sheriff, DMV... NOBODY could tell him what he needed to do to legally haul it home. NOBODY could tell him who he needed to call to find out.
 
Dad bought a grain drill a few weeks ago, and needed to haul it about 100 miles. 15' wide, 9.5' long.

We were going to back it onto my deckover trailer sideways, but even then it was too wide.
You needed to make it not too wide. I see two ways:
1) Tip it on it's back. Depending on the drill, may not be an option.
2) Unbolt the hitch. You should be able to take a foot worth of stuff off the front of it.

If you can't accomplish option 2 in 8 hours, you can opt for an overwidth permit.

https://www.dot.ny.gov/nypermits
 

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