Super H restoration

Joe in CA · Apr 26, 2012

I am about to begin the 'restoration' on a 1944 Farmall H. This was the first tractor my great grandfather ever owned. The machine ran when parked, but was parked in 1986. It is not froze up.... surprisingly.

Can anyone offer any advice/experiences on working on this particular model? Any potential 'landmines' that I may encounter during the course of this endeavor?

Thanks all.

Joe in CA · Apr 26, 2012

The other side

Joe in CA · Apr 26, 2012

And it's not a "super H" BTW. It's a regular one. Don't know what I was thinking there...

Wishful thinking perhaps...

mike1972chev · Apr 26, 2012

Looks like you got a REAL solid piece to work with there with STELLAR rear tires on it !!!!!

Seeing how these were real popular with big production #s(400,000+ only secound in sales to the 8 N Fords)and parts readilt available from many places.Should be pretty straight foreward!!!

Joe in CA · Apr 26, 2012

Blew my mind that the rears still are solid and hold air. Fronts are trash.

mike1972chev · Apr 26, 2012

You will get off WAY cheap just having to buy the fronts !!!! Lucky You !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

neblinc · Apr 26, 2012

First off you need to see if it will run. Check the gas tank for rust or any other goo. The sediment bowl may be all gummed up also. The carb may need attention also. New plugs, check the cap, rotor & points for any rust,
drain engine oil and put in fresh oil & filter.
Once you get it running you can take care of the tranny fluid later.

Hope it fires right up for you.

Randy

Super-H-Mike · Apr 26, 2012

Don t know about california, but here in Minnesota it would have water from condensation in the rear diff. The water will be settled to the bottom so pulling the drain plug and letting it run out til its only oil coming might be a good idea....

wisbaker · Apr 26, 2012

They were a pretty solid tractor, fairly easy to work on. A lot of their parts were used on other stuff and they made a lot of them. In my opinion you have probably the best first tractor. I'm prejudiced- a wartime H was the first tractor my folks had, I bought it from them when they moved up to a Super M. Parts are reasonable, a lot of folks here on the site have been through them, sometimes more than once, they'll be glad to advise you. H parts are not as big so you don't drop as many and they don't break as much stuff when you do and you don't need humongous cranes and winches to do repairs. Our old Farmalls converted our neighbor who was raised with that Green 2 cylinder stuff, he thought it was novel to be able to walk to the house after field work all day, with those John Deeres he had gotten used to crawling home after a day's work.

Mike CA · Apr 27, 2012

Hey Joe,

Where in California are you? I live down in Visalia, but I won't be back from deployment until end of May.
I'm (very slowly) restoring a '44 H as well. Your rear tires look great which will save you a TON of money. What size are they?

Good luck with the resto! I hope we can see some progress pics!

Joe in CA · Apr 27, 2012

I'm up near Chico but I work in Visalia. I'd like to see your machine sometime.

mkirsch · Apr 27, 2012

H's are about as solid a tractor as anyone has ever built.

People ask all the time about "weak spots" and there really aren't any. Just keep in mind that we're talking about a 68 year old tractor here that has God knows how many hours on it. Literally ANYTHING could be worn out. Any place metal turns against metal (i.e. bearings, gears) could be worn out and in need of replacement.

I'm of the school of fix-what-needs-fixing, knock the rust off, and paint it.

GordoSD · Apr 27, 2012

Wheels are dished in instead of out. Switch them over to other axle. Most folks demount tires to restore the rims. Then Paint rims, wheels but not the axle. Only paint what is showing after remounting wheels. Good luck.

Karl in MD · Apr 27, 2012

Nice! Starting tank and manifold heat shield intact! I'm just partial to kerosene Hs.

LMack · Apr 27, 2012

Before you try to fire it off I would suggest you go through the Carburetor. Use a solvent to clean the gas tank and you might have to replace the fuel line. Do not install an in line fuel filter. Dump any gasoline or kerosene that may remain in the tanks. If it fires and the plugs are in shape it should crank right up but I would bet you will also have to do a complete electrical tune up as well; new points, condenser, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor button, etc. If it will not fire, get back on here and there are plenty of people that can walk you through the step by step checks to find any problem. Be proud of your tractor. It is good to keep the same tractors our parents and grandparents had. Larry

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