Buying a Farmall 706 gas

Hi again. I'm still wondering if there is anything particular I should look at on a 706 gas that I"m thinking of buying. It's a long way from me and I"d like to cover all my bases with one trip. Any info would be great.

Do a compression check on it. I bought one once that the valves were going bad. Ran good for a while and then one day it wouldn't start.

Check the TA by starting in road gear TA with the throttle almost wide open, let out the clutch like you were merging into traffic, when it is about as fast as it will go in TA, shift to Direct by rapidly (which is the only proper way) moving the TA lever to Direct, forward. Be careful it will go fast. You do not need to go full speed. If it holds the TA at first and shifts to direct well, it is a pretty good indication that it is OK. Jim

What to check for on a 706 GASSER
(1) look the engine over good on the outside for head gskt leakage. The side cover gskt is almost guarantied to leak , if it is not leaking i would be surprised .
(2) Check and see if it is charging .
(3) check the shifters for slop . .
(4) look at the HYD oil and see if it is milky.
(5) Look the hitch over for excess wareand also the draw bar.
(6) Look for oil leaks under the bellhousing as this can be a teltale sign of a leaking IDPOT inputshaft seal .
(7) Check and see if the heat riser on the exhaust manifold is working free and that the clock spring is in place also look for cracks in the exhaust manifold.
(8) Look over the pedals for side slop .
(9) Run the tractor for at least a half hour and check for blow by at the breather tube.
(10) Check and make sure that the temp gauge does work and is not cut and is infact in the head behind the exhaust manifold .
(11) Make sure that the IDIOT lights are infact working .
(12 Drive the tractor and check each brake looking for any excess hesitation in there operation and stopping power .
(13) check and see if it has a SPRING LOADED park lock or if it is still and OLD over center if it is DON'T trust it .
(14) NOW we check the T/A and steering , first the T/A place the tractor in high third and take off , here i don't care if ya start in the low side or the high side of the T/A , bring it up to full RPM's and start loading the engine with the brakes and start bring her to her knees all the way down to 12-1400 RPM with your foot against the clutch pedal being ready to shove the clutch pedal down if she comes to a sudden stop when you pull the T/A back into low . IF the T/A is bad she will either stop dead in her tracks or she will hesitate then grab , IF it does stop dead in her tracks shove the clutch pedal down as she just might grab and she will lift the ft way off the ground when you least expect it. IF this happens then the T/A is PLUM SHOT there is no you can adjust that out she is DOA . Now as for me i would rather replace a T/A and clutch then play lets rebuild the engine . You know going in that what you will need other then a bearing or two . When you open up and engine god help ya as to do it wright the first time you can put three T/A's in to one engine job.

Check to see that you have at least a $1500 limit on your gas card.

Gene

Well that well get us thru almost the whole year on the 706 and the one old John Deere A