super WD6 issues

I'm working on a super WD6 with a friend, and looking at buying it from him. After sitting in the shed for a number of years, the rear engine seal dried out and now it leaks. It's also got a stuck injector. How tricky is it to change the engine seal, and how much for the seal, and how much for the fuel injector? Any other advice? Thanks, Rob

Minimum of $82 to fix the injector at Central Fuel in Iowa.

Did the rear main on my MD, but that is totally different (maybe) I don't remember if all the SWD-6s had frame rails...if so then not so different. A word of caution, it might not be the rear main seal but the rear main seal retainer. They were made of white metal and had a tendency to warp. I got a seal retainer out of a 400/450 and it solved that problem. Also might want to plan on doing the clutch while you have the tractor split. That is right around $200, but if the rear main leaks the clutch disc will be all oily and want to grab. Seal was cheap (compared to the rest of the project)

How long to get at the seal? Is the seal retainer available new? Any special tools to deal with the clutch? Thanks for the help!

I got my rear main seal from the dealer. If you don't have one near you call Carter & Gruenwald or Messicks and order it. They will ship it to you. Takes a day if you want to pay 10% extra and 3 if you wait for stock order at my dealer. Might be able to get it aftermarket, but I doubt you can by itself.

Tell your parts man what you are doing. He will get you all the stuff you need. There are two rubber plugs, two wedgy looking gaskets that go between the halves, a big gasket that goes between the retainer and block, and the oil pan gasket. You could probably make most of those gaskets except the oil pan (IMO) I know some guys use RTV for oil pans...that could be a whole different thread...

You also will have to get your old seal out before ordering the new one. If it has the spiral groove in the crank you need the felt seal. If it has a smooth crank you need the neoprene seal. One WILL NOT work in place of the other.

Seal retainer new. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: You must not have worked on gas starts very long. A lot of the diesel only parts are junkyard only. If you are near Miles, IA that yard has some gas starts. I know he had one lastwinter, but I fought him for 3 weeks on shipping it to me. He said he would, but never did. I never paid him so nothing lost. Come to find out it isn't really his yard but it kind of is??? Maybe he just jockeys parts out of it? I don't get it.

No special tools for the MD clutch (other than splitting stands) You are going to need those on your 6 if it doesn't have a tub frame. The biggest trick on the clutch is putting the bolts in the PP so you draw it together. That makes assembly a breeze.

should not have to split in order to change the rear main seal on a W series. I would have have to look in the book to confirm. And Also what slfm says is very true, you want to find a late seal assembly out of a D264 or D281



Andrew

(quoted from post at 05:59:08 04/22/12) should not have to split in order to change the rear main seal on a W series. I would have have to look in the book to confirm. And Also what slfm says is very true, you want to find a late seal assembly out of a D264 or D281

Andrew

Click to expand...

Some of the Supers had frame rails and I think that would require a split.

There are a couple on this site. I was too lazy to put them in the post. Sorry.
http://oldtractorpictures.com/International/

(quoted from post at 06:07:14 04/22/12)

(quoted from post at 05:59:08 04/22/12) should not have to split in order to change the rear main seal on a W series. I would have have to look in the book to confirm. And Also what slfm says is very true, you want to find a late seal assembly out of a D264 or D281

Andrew

Click to expand...

Some of the Supers had frame rails and I think that would require a split.

There are a couple on this site. I was too lazy to put them in the post. Sorry.
http://oldtractorpictures.com/International/

Click to expand...

I don't think it had framerails, I'll have to look again. It sure would be nice not to have to split it. I've never worked on a gas start before, lol. How come you have to split it if it has frame rails? Again, thanks for the help!

The clutch will come out the top if it has the cast tub frame. I would guess if it has frame rails it would come out like a normal tractor.

Take a look at my Photobucket page and you can see how the clutch will come out. I have a WD-9, but they are built fairly similar to a WD-6. There is A LOT of crap to take off before you can get to it. It was really hard to get out even after all the stuff was out of the way. Here is the link.
http://s1246.photobucket.com/albums/gg601/sflem849/WD-9/