Hey Tractor Vet, is this normal?

Little story for ya:

Yesterday's project was adjust the clutch on the 806. None of the neighbors are needing my help farming, and I couldn't just sit around.

So, I looked up one of your old posts on how to adjust the clutch, TA dump valve, and transmission brake. Also consulted owner's manual for clutch free travel, and away I go. Well, all the linkages were frozen up. Figures. The threads for the adjustment of the trans. brake actually galled up and I will need to fix that before I leave work tonight. The clevis end, thankfully, cleaned up just fine after running a tap through it.

So, after cleaning up the clutch and TA dump linkage, I put them on this morning. Adjusted them to approx 7/8" free travel like book says, and set TA dump to just turn light on at full travel (pedal floor tab hitting floor) like you said previously to do. Now, I apparantly learned why those transmissions have a brake on them. I tried to shift it, and the transmission simply did not stop spinning. I did not press the issue, or shut it down and then put it in gear, because I simply did not need it today. I'll hopefully get it all squared away tomorrow morning.

Which leads me to my questions: is that normal for the transmission to "freewheel" like that? I assume so, hence the trans. brake. Older tractors don't do that, although, they don't have a brake, either. Second: Is it possible to get the trans. brake too tight? Before I started this project, I often actually had to partially let out on clutch pedal to shift gears. Couldn't do it at full extension of pedal. If that happens again to me, should I then adjust linkage so that transmission dosen't stop spinning, and then pick the mid point? Just wondering, I know that you and Owen and Pete know far more about the subjects I ask questions about. Thanks! -Andy

Your OK if the light goes out before the tractor attempts to move in the lowest gear.

Yes, you can adjust the trans brake too tight. Adjust it just tight enough to stop the trans gears with the pedal all the way on the floor.

For easy shifting, you need a place in the middle of the pedal travel where the trans brake is fully released before the clutch starts to engage, or it will be very difficult to shift in / out of gear.

If you followed what i have said it should work great. NOW on the trans break this should be done BEFORE you set the dump valve , with the clutch pedal all the way down to the stop lug against the floor plate you adjust the turn buckle out while holding the trans brake rod back against the gear and adjust the turn buckle so that the pin will slide in , then let the clutch pedal up and ADD one more turn out on the turn buckle and reinstall the pin and hair clip. . Now IF due to excess ware you may find that you may have to go a half turn more and on some that are real sloppy two . THEN you set the dump valve . NOW i know that you have not done as many as Pete or Owen or myself so you may have to play around just a little , BUT when you get it wright they will shift with two fingers . NOW as for the transmission keep on turning they SHOULD slow down at some point IF it does not then the main clutch is dragging . The gears are larger in these transmission and they will turn longer . BUT they should slow down .

Thanks Guys. I put the trans. Brake link on yesterday. Got it shifting pretty well. I wound up with it too tight, and it shifted hard like before, so I backed it off by 1/2 turn and all was well. Probably around 2 turns of the turnbucke added after setting initial length to get the transmission to stop in a reasonable bount of time. I never did get the oil tellite to act reliably, I wound up setting it with a pressure gauge like T.V. Described in the past. On to other projects! -Andy