Update - Farmall 140 Won't Start Discoveries Today.

Spent the morning in the tractor shed doing more diagnostic discoveries on my Farmall 140 that I can't get to start and run. Removed the hood and spark plugs planning on getting a look at the valve train following what I was going to find on a compression test of the cylinders. I checked them dry (didn't put oil in the cylinders to better seal the rings to sleeve) and found them all at 150 PSI. There was maybe a pound or two at most difference between any of them. With those results didn't think I had a valve issue so didn't pull the valve cover as it was obvious they were all working and sealing well.
Drained all the fuel that was still in the fuel tank which was about 5 gallons. Drained it through the fuel line to the carb and it all ran out in about 15 minutes of less. A good steady flow through a 3/8" dia. hose. Removed the carb and it was really ready for a good cleaning for sure. I'm guessing with the very good compression along with the fuel flow and spark plugs with no evidence of getting any fuel since they were so dry the issue is getting fuel sucked through the carb. The carb is now soaking and will get it back together once I get the carb kit I'm ordering from Rustyfarmall by email. Trust it will arrive shortly like his parts always do.
So that's the findings at this point - I think in the future I'm going to shut off the fuel at the tank and burn up all the gas in the carb before shutting them down in the shed for those not used on a frequent basis.
Thanks for the responses to my initial thread on this issue. I'm still thinking those replies suggesting to prime the cylinders with gas and then trying to start it might have broken the obstruction loose but after seeing the inside of the carb feel I took the correct approach. Thanks again for supporting this "won't start" issue, Hal.

a farmall friend has talked me into using what we call amoco white gas (no additives)(can burn in coleman gas lanterns). this has reduced the carb problems.

burning the gas out of carb is a good idea for tractors, lawn mowers, etc.

I had to remove, partially disassemble, and soak two carburetors this spring. I didn't bother with kits. The tractors fired right up when reassembled.

They're doing something with the gas here in New England. Yep, it looks like the carbs will have to be run dry (or drain plugs removed) in the fall from now on.

This is another good reason for running Diesels. I wonder if these gas Farmalls will run on a Diesel/gasoline mixture and whether that brew will preserve itself.

You can run the carb dry, but then you may run into the problem of the float sticking open. This ethanol gasoline or what ever additive they use leaves behind a white powdery junk and in my carbs when run dry will stick the floats. I have turned to using Avgas. Bought some yesterday. Ethanol regular was $4.00 , regular non ethanol was $4.28, and 100LL Avgas was $4.99. I have used straight Avgas for about 5 or 6 years with no problems. Yesterday I mixed about half nonethanol with Avgas to see how that works. Ethanol gasoline has got to be the worst thing the government has given folks who use older machinery or small engines

By the way if you read the specs on 100LL Avgas the shelf life is at least 7 years.

I've tried to buy avgas from the local small airport. They will absolutely NOT sell me a drop. They mutter something about Homeland Security and TSA and the Patriot Act.

Besides, I've had zero issues with any of this 10% ethanol gas. It knocks about 2MPG off my truck which ticks me off a little, but other than that no issues whatsoever.

Sounds like you are on the right track cleaning the carb. I have had to clean the carb on my F240 twice in the last 6 years, always after sitting in the shed for a few months.

Thanks for the response and we do have a gas station in town that handles unleaded preminum without ethonol added which I guess is another solution. It is usually priced about .20 cents more then the ethonol blended regular which is a fair preminum. I use that fuel in my chainsaws and other small engines which just have periodic use as it stores very well. Just a big deal hauling it home by the 5 gallon container unless I could arrange to have it delivered to the farm tanks. I need to look into that possibility as I use most of my Farmalls for real farm work especially during hay season and throughout the summer months. I also try and exercise them on occasion if for nothing else then an around the neighborhood tractor ride, Hal.

How can alcohol leave anything behind? After all we do use it to clean surfaces before painting to assure the surface is squeaky clean! Pure alcohol has an invisible flame when it burns because it's so clean. The white powder must be from other gasoline additives. I saw it in carbs long before ethanol was available to us. Another idea is to leave the carb drain cock or plug open while in storage so condensation will drain out. Jim

Yep, your right maybe this stuff was around before ethanol but it was not around before 1974 or so when unleaded gas came out because before that gasoline would last a long time. I am sure ethanol has been good to the farmers for grain prices, the ones using diesel powered equipment don't have a problem with ethanol because they do not use it. Where I live in the eastern part of Maryland where the humidity is always high ethanol gasoline absorbs water out of the air. Ethanol gasoline is crap,, more feel good stuff from the U.S. government to try and appease the enviromentalist.

> I wonder if these gas Farmalls will run on a
> Diesel/gasoline mixture...

Poorly and not for long. Oil lowers octane and fouls plugs and valves. If you're lucky the plugs will foul out before the knocking breaks a piston.

(quoted from post at 19:43:41 04/19/12) > I wonder if these gas Farmalls will run on a
> Diesel/gasoline mixture...

Poorly and not for long. Oil lowers octane and fouls plugs and valves. If you're lucky the plugs will foul out before the knocking breaks a piston.

Click to expand...

The problem is in the GASOLINE. The gasoline is still there when you mix in diesel, and still a problem. Diesel doesn't magically turn the gasoline into something else.

You've just introduced another problem by adding something that the engine was not designed to run on.

There is nothing you can add to the gasoline that will solve the problem.