Float Setting for a Zenith Carb on a Farmall 140 Needed.

Farmallhal

Well-known Member
Trying to figure out why my 1966 Farmall 140 won't start. Have checked fuel flow to the carb and through carb, checked ignition and have good spark along with good voltage and a strong new battery. Tractor wasn't used last year but was ran a few times and is used as my belly mower tractor. It appears I don't have good suction to draw fuel into the cylinders. Removed a plug after numerous attempts to start and it was dry with no evidence of fuel. Tractor is stored inside a closed building and out of the weather. Checked all visible things for cracks and leaks but don't see any as an issue. Thought maybe the gas is not high enough in the carb might be a problem to investigate. Plan to remove carb tomorrow and take a look there next. Would like to know the float setting and is it measured with a gasket in place or without? Need to do a compression check but this has always been a really nice running and easy starting tractor until now. Thanks for your comments or suggestions, Hal.
 
Well if it ran OK last year, why would the float not be right this year? Did you try new gas? Pull the plugs & squirt some oil in there to seal the rings. Turn it over a few times then squirt a little gas in there to prime it. Have the choke half shut & if you have good spark , it should fire up & stay running.
 
Agreed if it ran last year the carb is ok. Have you checked compression and i would remove the valve cover to see if all the valves are working if you remove all the plugs you can turn the engine over easy and watch the valves move. You say you have spark is that with wire hooked to the plug.
 
Thanks Gene for your reply and the spark was checked by holding the wire about 1/4" from the engine block. The spark was very bright and blue in color as it should be. Yes, I think removing the valve cover will be in order but thought about doing a compression check first and see what that shows. This tractor has always been an instant and easy starter and have had it for over five years and never had a "hic-up" before on starting. A neighbor had the muffler off of his tractor and a mouse got inside his engine (I guess past an open valve) through the open manifold and built a nest on top of a piston. Thanks again for your response, Hal.
 
Don't really know what could have happened guess looking at checking everything. Have good flow to the carb at the inlet and through the carb and out the plug on the bottom of the bowl. Checked the suction by removing a plug in the manifold above the carb and checking for pressure while cranking and basically nothing. Did have some through the aircleaner by removing the cap and using hand on open breather cap. Thanks very much for your suggestion and will give that a try if compression checks out, Hal.
 
My guess is that carb got gummed up.

Gas can get real nasty from just sitting for that long.

Probably wouldn't hurt to just pull the carb and give it a thorough cleaning.
 
That's the thinking and reason for this post - I found the float setting in my IH Service Manual for C-123 engines which is 1 5/32" to top of gasket. Thanks for your response, Hal.
 
Hi....I"d do what Teddy52food suggested. I always try to remember that the engine needs three things: spark, gas, compression to run or at least sputter. Gas is easy to check-squirt some in the cylinder and see if you get it to sputter. Having the compression "go away" in all 4 cylinders, to the point were it won"t even sputter is the most unlikely of the three. .
Pete
 
Hi Hal, I will be watching this thread close. I have a cub that does the exact same thing. If I use it a lot it starts just fine, but if it sits for a month or so it is a bear to start and when I pull the plugs there dry just like you describe. The crazy thing is if someone will pull me it will fire right off but sometimes thats the only way I can get it to start. Its a strong motor "for a cub any way" and runs like a top. Just very hard to start. Oh and it only does this when I need it in a hurry or if someone else is watching. Dang cub anyway.
 
i had the same thing happen to me on my A. but when i cleand the points, i got the roter turned 180 around. good luck
 
Thanks for your response and when I was in my distributor the rotor is keyed to only one position. How did you get it off 180 deg. w/o removing the distributor from the tractor - just wondering for future information, Hal?
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top