SC FastHitch adjustment

I've never used or even seen any equipment mounted on a FastHitch system. So I bought a FastHitch system and a plow for my SC as I wanted to give it a try. After installing the system and hooking up the plow I gave it a trial in a back field. The lift system works fine but the touch control doesn't work so well. The biggest problem I had was leveling the plow from side to side. The flat bar is in the back hole of the rockerarm. The flat bar does not line up well with the inside rockshaft. I don't see any way to adjust the flat-bar inward for better alignment. I does work, it doesn't bind, but it could be better. The major problem I have is leveling the plow from side to side. Pushing the touch control lever all the way down causes the plow to be very high on the right side. Pushing the touch control lever fully upward causes the plow to be nearly level but it's still a little high on the right side. The leveling rod that is controlled by the flat bar attaches to each side of the lifting arms. The attachment device, between the leveling rod and the lift arms has two holes with pull-out pins. This is the only place on the whole system that I can see would be a place of adjustment of the side-to-side adjustment. I pulled the pin on the left side and relocated the pin to the other hole. This may have helped a little, but it's still not really level. So, I'm confused. How is the system set up where it is initially level so the touch control lever can be used to raise or lower the plow from side to side?

What you need is the "Supplement to Operators Manual" Part# (1004220R4) IH Farmall Fast-Hitch for Super C

If you'll send me your email address I'll scan and email it to you.

It covers all the set ups for the various fast hitch implements.

The Bell Crank Lock Strap needs to be disconnected from the Leveling Bell Crank. The Leveling Link needs to be attached to the touch control in the front and the Leveling Bell Crank in the back.

Bell Crank Lock Strap is attached to the brake drum and runs horizontally to the Leveling Bell Crank.

The Leveling Bell Crank runs vertically and attaches to the fast hitch under the axle.

I have a super C w FH and use a C20 2-14" plow.

I set the plow level on level ground and plow the 1st row. I then go back and drop the right wheel in the furrow and tilt the plow accordingly with the touch control.

This is an example of a picture is worth a thousand words. You need the manual.

Hello Dean, is this your C in the picture? I am getting ready to paint my wheel weights and trying to decide which way I want to put them on. I see the weights pictured are the opposite side out than what I typically see. Thanks in advance.

Yes,
I had some hands helpng me mount those and just flat didn't pay attention to how they mounted them. They are on "backwards" as far as I'm concerned. Some day I'll get around to dissassembling that tractor and paint. I'll correct the mounting of the weights then. I have a few leaks to tend to at that time also.

I was kind of thinking I prefer the backwards look. It looks like that side was the bottom of the cast, I see no flaws on the back of mine and quite a number of them on the front. I've never looked at any other set of weights very closely, one of those things, you can put hours and hours on a number of tractors, but until you own one and start taking it apart and working on it, you don't notice the details.

Sorry Dean, another question. You have 2 weights there on the land side correct? Do you run any weights on the furrow side?
Thanks again.

3 on both sides.

I was running out of traction before power and kept adding till it would plow. It plows fine now and I can still lose traction before it stalls out. Manual says up to 3 on each side is ok.


Tires are loaded also.

Been a long, long time for me, but it seems to me with the touch control forward and the SC on level ground, the plow was pretty much level. Drop the right side in a furrow and you adjusted the TC back just a little to level. We then set a stop so whenever we started a new land, it was easy to return to the furrow setting. For 3 years, it was all we had to plow with, but that was '56 thru '58, so I may not be right. However, it does seem easier to remember things from 50 years ago than what I had for breakfast this morning.

It is working correctly.

With the tractor sitting on level ground, the plow SHOULD be high on the right side.

It needs to be level with the tractor's right wheel sitting IN THE FURROW.

On the first pass, you run with the touch control lever all the way forward, so the plow is nearly level. The next pass, you bring the touch control lever back until the plow is level with that right rear wheel in the furrow.

Dean, I can see from your comments that one of my problems is that there is no fluid in the tires and only one weight on each side. The second the plow start to dig in one or both of the wheels start to spin and I have to lift the plow. So, you've clarified one of the problems I have. Thanks for all your comments, they will help a lot.

O. K., that makes sense. After looking at all the comments, I think I have two problems: (1). I don't have enough weight on the rear tires, since neither tire has fluid and there's only one weight on each side. (2) The shares are worn out. This doesn't help the plow want to "bite" into the soil, so, with the lack of weight and the worn out shares I have a real problem getting an initial furrow to work with on the second past. But, it's real helpful knowing that the plow is not suppose to go up on the left side like it does on the right. Thanks for your comments.

I'm with you on the memory. I do remember my Father buying a brand new SC, but the only thing he would buy with it was the cultivators. Eliminating a drag cultivator meant that he could go do something other that ride that cultivator all day. But, he wouldn't buy a FastHitch because he already had a drag disc and a drag plow and bye golly there was no use spending money on something he already had if it didn't replace one person. Now that I think about it, it makes sense. But, then he took over the SC with the touch-control cultivator and I got put on the drag cultivator with my Mother driving the pull tractor.

My email: [email protected]

And I sure do appreciate that.

One other question: Is there any reason that the flat bar going to the rocker arm isn't in good alignment with the inside arm. The bar hasn't been bent except for the factory bend.

Yes, Dean, thanks for the photographs.
I apparently do not have a Bell Crank Lock Strap. What was it used for?
Although I don't have it working correctly, I can see that this was one superior system, especially for the 50's. So, what was the weak points that caused the 3-point system to dominate? Was it kinda like the VHS and Beta systems, where Beta was a superior system but VHS was better at sales.

Be sure the stabalizer pins are in the top holes so the plow can free follow. If you don't curves will be a real problem.

We only had a single set of weights front and rear, but our NE Iowa soil was not hard to plow, pretty light when we moved there and after Dad had a lot of cattle on the farm for a few years, it was black but easy to work with all that manure.

I worked on the construction of a hog processing plant in Iowa Falls. I never knew that topsoil was that deep (6-foot, or so) anywhere in the world. No clay until we hit a black gumbo at about 10-feet. By that time you had hit water. The farmers all had clay tile drains buried down about 5-feet just to get rid of the excess water. Great country for corn and hogs. And, the best bacon in the world.

Small world.

I was born in Belmond and raised just north of Waterloo. I have family in Clarion & Williams still. I hunted a lot of Ducks on the river over by Dows and a lot of pheasants all around the area as a kid. Big fun with all the cousins and uncles.

If your working construction for the hog business you must have been working on one of Decosters projects.

I got your email address and I'll get the manual to you.

I added all the weight when I 1st busted the sod for my garden. The SC is pretty small for new ground. Now that it's been worked for several years my SC barely even grunts now.

This is my 53SH and No8 plow. Much better rig for busting sod. This is a new garden I helped a neighbor get started.

I'll have to go look at mine again but can you put it on the outside arm? Does it rub or act like its in a bind the way you have it mounted? It should lay flay on concrete the entire length. If it's bowed, straighten it out.

(quoted from post at 00:20:25 04/13/12) I'll have to go look at mine again but can you put it on the outside arm? Does it rub or act like its in a bind the way you have it mounted? It should lay flay on concrete the entire length. If it's bowed, straighten it out.

Click to expand...

I think ours was hooked to the outside arm. I know the left touch control lever was for the side-side tilt and right for the f-r tilt. One lever operated an arm on both sides and the other lever only on one side, so you should be able to figure it out from there.... been 52 years so my memory may be clouded.
I lived about 50 miles NE of Waterloo.

If a picture is worth 1000 words, a video is worth 1,000,000:

http://youtu.be/YWZBSwH49D4

Thanks to "farmall51" for his timely posting of this video.

You can see that the plow will JUST level out with the fast hitch tilted to the right, and sits right-side high with the fast hitch leveled out.