Guys, Hauled home the other day a 1966 656 LP! Ser# 15886 just inside the 1966 break line.
So far in my inspections of it the engine is not stuck. But the oil is as nasty black as any Dsl Tractor. Plugs 4-5-6 look ok but neglected for a long time, 1-2-3 were carboned up to the point I do not see how the tractor ran, supposedly 3 yrs ago.
I am covering all based here. But operating under the premise that the valve guide seal crapped out and let excessive oil through, thus the cause for the plug electrodes totally encased in carbon and burnt oil. I suspicion that the head need reworking first!
But IF the rings went bad and There Is Where the problem is......???????????
#1 How is the best way to get the sleeves out & not destroy them just in-case a couple are salvageable for another project or someone else might need one.
#2 What is the ID of the bore on the block that the sleeve goes into?? If I have to have a step-plate (hockey puck with a lip) made to pull the sleeve out with. OR is there a place to buy one or just what? This is my first 263 rebuild, though I have done others but not 263 before.
#3 OK!,,, Thoughts, Processes, How have You done it /or How do You do it?!!!
Later,
John A.

Not sure of the bore size, but more that likely when you pull the head you"ll notice the sleeves are junk. Most times I use a sleeve puller, its got several different sizes of plates to pull most sleeves. Sometimes I run a weld bead from the bottom up, and a little later it comes up by hand. They go in hard, need to clean the block bore good, place sleeves in dry ice, make sure they seat right the first time.

You would need to have a puck machined to fit the sleeve bore and overall diameter of the puck
machined enough to clear the block bore for the sleeve. You would need to make or have made a puller like Keith made for his SC. Hal

if you go to OTC tool website they list the puller plate "pucks" as most of us call them , they list them by manufacturer IH, Cat, JD etc, and engine size and it shows the measurements of the plate. It has a lot of info there if you look.

Last summer I did the sleeves in my 706 which has a 263 manufactured in 1966 and the bore size was 3 3/4". Early model 263's had a 3 9/16's bore. To pull them I borrowed a sleeve puller from a local machine shop who lent it to me for free as long as I paid for them to make the puck to fit the bore. All cane out easy with no damage to them or the block.

Why not just put a new set of plugs in and make sure the tappets are set correct before tearing engine apart to fix something thats not wrong. A fresh change of oil along the way then use the tractor for something a while then check the plugs along with a compression check. I bought a B that had two pushrods out of the rocker arm and it took a while to get all the junk burned out now it starts and runs just like a top.

Guys, gene,steve,rob,ElToro,cole,All,,,
Thanks for the replies, Gene, I will approach this project from that very point. I am probably looking for Boogers from the Get-Go when there may not be much of one. But looking at the other side of the coin if I have to go that route.
Rob, Went to OTC Tool and now I at least know where to look for Pullers.
Steve, Have a couple of mechanics I can hit up on a borrow/pay for trade like yours.
Guys, thanks again for the advise!!!
Later,
John A.

Block cylinder bore ID is 3.6875 - 3.6890 inches. Sleeve thickness is 1/16 inch. Sleeve ID is 3 9/16 inches.