Farmall H valve job

jbp

Member
Bought a Farmall H a couple days ago that has been setting inside for at least the last 10 years. The old thing runs pretty good with no blue smoke so must be in pretty good condition. Now the warts. Needs paint badly, tires and there is only one small dent in the sheet metal, grill is good. There is a hiss in number 3 exhaust valve so that was probably open for all that time and needs some attention. No, its not sticking, no such luck.

The question is, is there thing to be especially aware of while removing and repairing the head on an H? I am familar with the Cub and A and C engines and have had them completely apart with no problems, but have never had an H or M apart.
Thanks, Joe
 
Other than taking pictures, keeping track of bolt hole locations and the bolts/nuts/washers that were removed from each, the pushrods and their order front to back, are important. The removal of the steering shaft is the most disliked part.
Jim
 
(quoted from post at 18:10:22 04/06/12) Bought a Farmall H a couple days ago that has been setting inside for at least the last 10 years. The old thing runs pretty good with no blue smoke so must be in pretty good condition. Now the warts. Needs paint badly, tires and there is only one small dent in the sheet metal, grill is good. There is a hiss in number 3 exhaust valve so that was probably open for all that time and needs some attention. No, its not sticking, no such luck.

The question is, is there thing to be especially aware of while removing and repairing the head on an H? I am familar with the Cub and A and C engines and have had them completely apart with no problems, but have never had an H or M apart.
Thanks, Joe

The engines in the H and M are really no different than an engine in a Cub, A, or B. They are simply bigger, and heavier, and the H and M use dry sleeves instead of the wet sleeves found in the A and B. If you can work on an A, you can work on an H.
 
What is the down side of replacing push rods in random order? I knew that is important for a car engine, but i thought these old tractors had much wider tolerances. Anyhow, it is too late for me because I have already done so!! And do I REALLY want to hear your answer? ( Maybe).
 
As long as you oiled them well, nothing really. If not, run a few squirts of oil down each one when you adjust the valves before first firing, if too late for that, don't worry about it. Don't forget to re-torque the head after the first run to operating temp. 70 pounds. And there is no real need to pull the steering shaft either, it just makes it a little easier too pick up the head and to replace it, but if you pull the front-most two studs, you can pull the head without removing the shaft.
 

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