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farmall cub w/o spark

T

t-bone

New User
I"ve been unable to start my cub since parking it a couple of
months ago. From what i can tell, i"m getting no spark. The coil
seems to check out ok on the bench with readings between the
terminals about .3 ohms, and 2500 (i think) between the positive
and large wire terminal. This tractor is running on a 12 volt
battery with a negative ground.
How do I tell if I have a magneto vs distributer? Does a magneto
have points and condenser? Also, should the wire from the coil
to the distributer/magneto be connected to the positive post of
the coil, or the negative as I have read about in reference to
older cars.
Any help is appreciated.
 
Both a distributor and a mag have points. The mag will not have a wire going to the battery but the distributor type will have a wire going from a coil to a switch that in turn hooks to a batter. Also a distributor will have a set of clips to remove a cap with 5 wires and then under that cap a rotor and dust cover and under the cover a set of points which is most likely where your problem is
 
The coil should have about two to three ohms , not .3. So if it is .3 that is the issue. With the ignition turned on, and the spark lead from the coil about 1/4" away from the block, tickle the points open and closed with a screw driver. If it sparks it might be the point adjustment. .020" on the high point of the distributor cam. Jim
 
A Mag will also have clips to remove the cap.
If you have a separate coil connected to the battery, you have a distributor. A Mags coil is internal and you have to remove a cover to access it.
If you are running a 12v battery, the (+) side of the coil connects to the ignition switch, the (-) side to the distributor. Check for voltage at the coil, and spark out of the coil to the block. Check the condition and gap of the points.
 
There are clips holding the cap on, a rotor and dust cap. The rotor seems stuck on, should i just pry it off, or is there a trick to pulling it off?
 
Common for them to stick like that and you can try to pry it off but you may also break it in doing so but most parts stores will have them. The points are under that dust cover so yep either way the rotor has to come off. Some times a light taping on the rotor will free it
 
Rub those points with some 320 wet or dry until they're shiny, then see if you have fire to your sparkplugs. If you have fire try starting the engine. If there's no fire use a volt meter or test lite and check for voltage at your coil. With the points open and your ignition switch in the on position you should have voltage on both small terminals on the coil. If there's no voltage at your coil check for voltage at the terminal on your switch that feeds the coil. If you have voltage there replace the wire from the switch to your coil.

If there's no voltage on the terminal on your switch that feeds the coil. Check for voltage feeding your switch. If there's voltage feeding your switch, replace the switch. To bypass your switch run a separate wire from the battery to your coil and then see if the engine will start.

Hal
 
You can also use a piece of brown paper bag or a dollar bill to run between the point surfaces to clean them up. Could just be a bit of glaze from sitting.
 
Distributor:

mvc_5451s.jpg
 
I apologize for intruding on this thread but I have brrn trying to get ahold of TBone for awhile now but I havnt been able to send a PM or reply to him.... T_Bone I had seen a previous post from 2000 about manuals for a Pippin 260H backhoe... I was wondering if you still had any and I could get a copy of them somehow. I have had absolutely zero luck locating any literature on this model and finally found your post with it. Thank you very much in advance for reading and hopefully replying.
 
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